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Installing a sub for JK with no factory sub. Amps?

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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 06:46 PM
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Default Installing a sub for JK with no factory sub. Amps?

I want to put this sub in my 2 door JK.
w ww.crutchfield.com/p_13612W0V24/JL-Audio-12W0v2-4.html?search=12+Inch+JL+audio

its a JL Audio 12W0v2-4 W0v2 Series 12" 4-ohm subwoofer

What amp do you recommend me buying in order to be able to use this? I don't really need the top of the line amp just something that I can use that will allow me to run this sub nicely.

Thanks

Last edited by Absolute; Sep 30, 2010 at 08:36 PM. Reason: please no clickable links to outside vendors
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 07:12 PM
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I have been doing a lot of research and have found that the alpine pdx amplifier is the perfect size to fit in the same exact spot where you would find the factory amp. This way you can power your sub and any other speaker you want without sacrificing any room
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Sapper12b
I have been doing a lot of research and have found that the alpine pdx amplifier is the perfect size to fit in the same exact spot where you would find the factory amp. This way you can power your sub and any other speaker you want without sacrificing any room
Wait my barebones x has an amp? I don't have the infinity sound system, where is the factory amp located at?

On a side note I also have some Kicker R6 speakers and tweeters which I was told were fullrange speakers do our jk's have factory crossovers? I was thinking of swapping the tweeters and the full range speakers on the dash/console area.

Thank You
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 07:20 PM
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a 2 ch amp that makes 300 watts bridged mono at 4 ohms OR a D class mono block that makes 300watts at 4 ohms. theres pros and cons to each.

now im a fan of running a 2ch amp for a sub, the only reason being is when you get bit by this nasty car audio bug, the amp can be moved forward to power the front end, and you can upgrade to a larger amp to power more subs. a D class mono block will be a bit more efficient. it will take lass currant to make the same power, creating less of a strain on your stock electrical system.

what do you plan to run for a head unit. stock or aftermarket. if you plan to go stock, features such as a remote bass gain are nice, as it allows you to "turn down" the sub volume to blend with your front end on a bass heavy song. also a amp with speaker level inputs is better suited to a factory head unit, of course there are a few ways to render a high level signal down to a usable low level input for an amp.

also arc audio make very nice versatile amps with very small foot prints. allowing you to stash them in all kinds of places for a stealthy install.

Last edited by XJ Jay; Sep 24, 2010 at 07:23 PM.
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 07:25 PM
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Even if you don't have the infinity upgrade you still have the same spot were the amplifier would have been. Do a search for pdx and they have some pictures of people already installing the amplifier in the same location as the stock
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by XJ Jay
a 2 ch amp that makes 300 watts bridged mono at 4 ohms OR a D class mono block that makes 300watts at 4 ohms. theres pros and cons to each.

now im a fan of running a 2ch amp for a sub, the only reason being is when you get bit by this nasty car audio bug, the amp can be moved forward to power the front end, and you can upgrade to a larger amp to power more subs. a D class mono block will be a bit more efficient. it will take lass currant to make the same power, creating less of a strain on your stock electrical system.

what do you plan to run for a head unit. stock or aftermarket. if you plan to go stock, features such as a remote bass gain are nice, as it allows you to "turn down" the sub volume to blend with your front end on a bass heavy song. also a amp with speaker level inputs is better suited to a factory head unit, of course there are a few ways to render a high level signal down to a usable low level input for an amp.

also arc audio make very nice versatile amps with very small foot prints. allowing you to stash them in all kinds of places for a stealthy install.
I'm planning on using the stock head unit. I just want 1 sub in the Jeep. Um so a two channel amp at what watts should be good?
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 07:28 PM
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Here you go this should b a good starting point for you

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...&highlight=pdx
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Sapper12b
Here you go this should b a good starting point for you

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...&highlight=pdx
Thanks for the link so if I just buy that amp he has under the steering wheel I can power my sub? as well as these?

I really appreciate your help

This is the amp in the thread right? w ww.amazon.com/Alpine-PDX-2-150-Amplifier-2-channel/dp/B000HBQERA

Last edited by Absolute; Sep 30, 2010 at 08:37 PM. Reason: Please no clickable links to non vendors
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 07:50 PM
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if you wish to power those classic kicker comps AND that JL sub your gonna need a 4 channel amp. something like a 75X4 should have enough snot to power the speakers and put out close to 300 watts bridged mono. now the big question is budget. those PDX amp cost a few bucks (gotta pay for that /////ALPINE name) this brings me back to Arc Audio. the XXD4080 and the KAR KS300.4. both have a small foot print and plenty of power to make that little JL play
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 07:54 PM
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[QUOTE=matt852;1863339]Thanks for the link so if I just buy that amp he has under the steering wheel I can power my sub? as well as these?

I really appreciate your help

This is the amp in the thread right? amazon.com/Alpine-PDX-2-150-Amplifier-2-channel/dp/B000HBQERA



That's correct but it also depends on which amplifier model you get because they are different channel amps they come 2 channel 3 channel 4 channel and a 5 channel. 4 a regular jk and not an unlimited a 3 channel or possibly a 4 channel would work depending on how many subs you want to run

Last edited by Absolute; Sep 30, 2010 at 08:38 PM. Reason: clicky's to non vendors
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