Mono sub question for 430N with premium...
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Mono sub question for 430N with premium...
So ultimately I had planned on replacing the entire system in my Jeep, but it looks like instead I will be having to go a cheaper and "piecemeal" route.
For now, I would like to increase the bass clarity and response. I was thinking of adding in a mono sub that has speaker level inputs, running the current sub wires into it, then outputting to a new sub.
The amp I was looking at was the Alpine MRV-M500. Would this work? Allowing me to keep the audio manipulation at the head unit (bass/treble/mid)? Or would I be better fit by splicing into the soundbar speakers and running it to the amp instead?
Granted I would love to just get a 5 channel amp, replace the crap one that is currently in the Jeep... and I still may, if the feedback points me in that direction. If I did, I would look at the Alpine MRX-V70. Using its speaker level inputs and avoid a LOC since I *think* I remember reading on the forum that the output from the head unit was speaker level? Cant recall and for some stupid reason I cant find the thread/post and had not bookmarked it (stupid me). EIther that or it was all canbus controlled and the amp controlled all the fade/balance and audio manipulation and there was only a single left/right channel from the head unit. Ive been dealing with upgrading a TJ's sound system too so I have all kinds of info floating around in my head.
Any help or input?
For now, I would like to increase the bass clarity and response. I was thinking of adding in a mono sub that has speaker level inputs, running the current sub wires into it, then outputting to a new sub.
The amp I was looking at was the Alpine MRV-M500. Would this work? Allowing me to keep the audio manipulation at the head unit (bass/treble/mid)? Or would I be better fit by splicing into the soundbar speakers and running it to the amp instead?
Granted I would love to just get a 5 channel amp, replace the crap one that is currently in the Jeep... and I still may, if the feedback points me in that direction. If I did, I would look at the Alpine MRX-V70. Using its speaker level inputs and avoid a LOC since I *think* I remember reading on the forum that the output from the head unit was speaker level? Cant recall and for some stupid reason I cant find the thread/post and had not bookmarked it (stupid me). EIther that or it was all canbus controlled and the amp controlled all the fade/balance and audio manipulation and there was only a single left/right channel from the head unit. Ive been dealing with upgrading a TJ's sound system too so I have all kinds of info floating around in my head.
Any help or input?
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Or would just biting the bullet, buying the 5 channel and running the output from the stock amp into the new amp be a better option?
Ultimately I would like to keep my audio stuff, but if I lose fade or balance its fine. Once those are set, I never change them. The bass I can manage with a remote dial, but I would still like to adjust high/mid on the fly.
Ultimately I would like to keep my audio stuff, but if I lose fade or balance its fine. Once those are set, I never change them. The bass I can manage with a remote dial, but I would still like to adjust high/mid on the fly.
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Haha... as soon as I post this and look at another thread, it pops up
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-e...em-h-u-226953/
Now my question...
If the amp has speaker level inputs, then would I still need the XSum(LOC)?
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-e...em-h-u-226953/
Now my question...
If the amp has speaker level inputs, then would I still need the XSum(LOC)?
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screw it... went ahead and bought some new toys.
Alpine MRP-F300 for the 4 channels of the front/rear, using the speaker level inputs and piggybacking off the stock amp.
Alpine MRV-M500 mono for the sub, doing the same piggybacking.
Some cheap-ish sony speakers to get me by for now.
Going to order up the 10W0v3-4 later and build a custom fiberglass enclosure where the stock one is now.
Alpine MRP-F300 for the 4 channels of the front/rear, using the speaker level inputs and piggybacking off the stock amp.
Alpine MRV-M500 mono for the sub, doing the same piggybacking.
Some cheap-ish sony speakers to get me by for now.
Going to order up the 10W0v3-4 later and build a custom fiberglass enclosure where the stock one is now.
#5
Subscribing... I'm interestd to see what you do for your enclosure. The PO upgraded my soundbar speakers with the Kickers and he threw a Kicker 10" and Kenwood Amp in the back. I retained the AMP and bought an OEM enclosure - Dynomatted the hell out of it, poly-filled it then threw an 8" JL w0 in there.
Sounds GREAT with the hard top on.
Sounds GOOD with the soft top on.
Sounds BAD with no top.
I checked with a local custom shop yesterday and we are discussing a False Floor install. I don't know though.
Sounds GREAT with the hard top on.
Sounds GOOD with the soft top on.
Sounds BAD with no top.
I checked with a local custom shop yesterday and we are discussing a False Floor install. I don't know though.
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Im always afraid of anything at floor level in the jeep in case it rains while the top is off. I plan on tearing out the carpet and bedlining it this summer so if it happens, its a quick drain plug and the water is gone. For that reason the amps are getting mounted under my seats, but raised as high a they can. Should give it a *little* protection.
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Question:
I read in that previously linked thread that the wire out for the sub was showing it as a dual voice coil?
Is that correct? Is it a 2ohm?
If its a 2, id have to wire it in series in order to get to 4ohm.... which I can do.
Im guessing that the input would be wired up with both channel 1 and 2, correct?
I read in that previously linked thread that the wire out for the sub was showing it as a dual voice coil?
Is that correct? Is it a 2ohm?
If its a 2, id have to wire it in series in order to get to 4ohm.... which I can do.
Im guessing that the input would be wired up with both channel 1 and 2, correct?
Last edited by CoreyZ; 05-10-2013 at 10:13 AM.
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I just keep deciding to go deeper and deeper down the rabbit hole on this one....
So now, instead of splicing into my existing premium system and adding in the amps tomorrow... ive decided to just gut the whole thing and sell it and replace it with something else. Going to strip out the 430N, the UConnect, the wiring harnesses, microphone, speakers, sub & enclosure as well as the lockpick V4 I currently have... and sell it to fund the new system.
Think i am going to go with the Parrot Asteroid Smart.
So now, instead of splicing into my existing premium system and adding in the amps tomorrow... ive decided to just gut the whole thing and sell it and replace it with something else. Going to strip out the 430N, the UConnect, the wiring harnesses, microphone, speakers, sub & enclosure as well as the lockpick V4 I currently have... and sell it to fund the new system.
Think i am going to go with the Parrot Asteroid Smart.