Longwheelbase

Installed Mopar windshield driving lights last night. Problem is they don't turn on. I followed the directions completly but still don't work, when bright lights are on the switch lights up on the dash, but that's about it. Any ideas what went wrong?

Yoda

Did you bought the installation kit?

http://www.quadratec.com/products/12118_11.htm

Longwheelbase

yes, I bought wire kit, light kit and brackets. I assume since the dash light comes on when the brights are on the wiring is correct

Robb-52h

Silly thought, i know... But i have seen dumber things. Did it come with bulbs or are the installed or is the any corrosion/protective coating on the contacts to be removed?

Longwheelbase

the lights came in kit, directions said nothing about protective covering. Straight out of box. I will check though. thanks

Robb-52h

Yeah...dont know. Just throwing ideas out there. The only other thing is to check the bulbs or fuse (if any) as the contacts could of broke during shipment.

I am curious though as i plan on installing 2 pairs of IPFs (off bumper and windshield)

mattyhfd

where are the pics?

AK4Dave

Well you know what they say about "when you assume". No, don't assume anything. The wiring could be wrong at the switch. I would do a quick bypass of the switch if you can and run a wire from the lights directly to the battery....just to make sure the lights actually do work. If they do then you know you got a wiring problem.

bikerglen

I looked at the instructions for installing this kit a few months ago so this is from memory. The LED on the switch and the relay are powered by the high-beam circuit. The lights themselves are switched by the relay and powered from a separate fused circuit directly from the battery. Get a volt meter and trace this circuit from the battery to the fuse to the relay and then to the lights.

Here's how I would proceed (applicable to any switched relay light installation really):

Section I.

1) pull the fuse and make sure there's +12v at the input to the fuse. if not, problem between battery and fuse holder.
2) put the fuse back in and make sure there's +12v at the input to the relay. if not, most likely a bad fuse or a problem between the fuse holder and the relay.
3) turn the switch on and off while examining the output of the relay. if there's no +12v at the output of the relay when the switch is on, go to the next section below
4) assuming +12v is switched on and off at the output to the relay, next check for +12v at the lights. if not, bad wiring between lights and relay. If yes, check the bulbs.

Section II.

1) check the output of the switch to the relay when the switch is on to make sure there's +12v there. if not, the switch is bad
2) check the coil input of the relay for +12v while the switch is on, if not, the wiring between the switch and the relay is bad.
3) if you get +12v at the coil of the relay while the switch is on but nothing on the output of the relay, the relay is probably bad

Section III.

1) if none of the above work, check your grounds

You don't need a fancy volt meter to do the above steps. A $20 cheapie from Radio Shack, Home Depot, Sears, Auto Zone, K Mart, etc. will suffice.

Hmm, I suppose I should draw a typical lighting circuit and make a flowchart....

-Glen

Longwheelbase

Thanks Glen I'll will give it a try.