My soundbar speaker replacement (non-Infinity)
I replaced the speakers in the sound bar (non-Infinity system) and am happy with the results. I've posted some photos of the process.
1. Removed the grill (3 screws) and the speaker "falls" right out.

2. Wiring connector that attaches to the speaker

3. with an aftermarket connector, no splicing is necessary

4. Stock speaker

5. Stock speaker vs. aftermarket speaker- (stock speaker is 6.75" and the aftermarket is 6.5" -- however, the magnet and components are no comparison.)

6. The aftermarket speakers are held by four (4) holes, whereas the stock speakers "sandwich" between the sound bar and the grill which has three (3) attachment holes. Therefore, I had to drill new holes into the sound bar (red circles)

7. Placed foam with adhesive back around base of speaker

8. Used retaining clips over the holes that were drilled into the sound bar to secure the speakers.

That's about it. With Speaker-wiring adaptors, no cutting of wires was necessary.
So far, it sounds better, but the next project should really wake things up: amp and new head unit.
1. Removed the grill (3 screws) and the speaker "falls" right out.

2. Wiring connector that attaches to the speaker

3. with an aftermarket connector, no splicing is necessary

4. Stock speaker

5. Stock speaker vs. aftermarket speaker- (stock speaker is 6.75" and the aftermarket is 6.5" -- however, the magnet and components are no comparison.)

6. The aftermarket speakers are held by four (4) holes, whereas the stock speakers "sandwich" between the sound bar and the grill which has three (3) attachment holes. Therefore, I had to drill new holes into the sound bar (red circles)

7. Placed foam with adhesive back around base of speaker

8. Used retaining clips over the holes that were drilled into the sound bar to secure the speakers.

That's about it. With Speaker-wiring adaptors, no cutting of wires was necessary.
So far, it sounds better, but the next project should really wake things up: amp and new head unit.
i just ordered a headunit from crutchfield.
i was wondering if i should order some cheap speakers so i can get the installation kit with the adapters and then sell the speakers and use the ones i have at home from my other car... giving me free install kits.
but then i was thinking, how do the adapter wires work with the front component speakers? i havent looked back there yet, but arent the mid wires seperate from the tweeter wires?
i was wondering if i should order some cheap speakers so i can get the installation kit with the adapters and then sell the speakers and use the ones i have at home from my other car... giving me free install kits.
but then i was thinking, how do the adapter wires work with the front component speakers? i havent looked back there yet, but arent the mid wires seperate from the tweeter wires?
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I found that during my installation of the front speakers (components), I did have to splice wires because, yes, there are different leads (wires) going to the "woofer" and the tweeter.
I didn't include photos of the wire splicing on my front speaker install because there are numerous different ways of doing it; and, I didn't want to be held responsible. However, I can give a brief explanation of how I did it.
The wire adaptor was used inside the speaker box. I installed the new tweeter, using the new wiring that came with the tweeter, and connected it to the crossover. I cut the wire leading to the woofer part of the stock speaker, and spliced wires to it, and then re-used the connector to attach the lead FROM the crossover to the speaker box. The wires that originally went to the woofer, were spliced and directed to the "line in" on the crossover. My plan is, as soon as the new head unit arrives, is to re-wire the "line in" wire from the amp directly. However, now, it seems to work pretty good.
I wish I would have had the forethought to use some foam in the speaker boxes as well. Oh well, I can pull them apart with the vibrations are too bad.
I didn't include photos of the wire splicing on my front speaker install because there are numerous different ways of doing it; and, I didn't want to be held responsible. However, I can give a brief explanation of how I did it.
The wire adaptor was used inside the speaker box. I installed the new tweeter, using the new wiring that came with the tweeter, and connected it to the crossover. I cut the wire leading to the woofer part of the stock speaker, and spliced wires to it, and then re-used the connector to attach the lead FROM the crossover to the speaker box. The wires that originally went to the woofer, were spliced and directed to the "line in" on the crossover. My plan is, as soon as the new head unit arrives, is to re-wire the "line in" wire from the amp directly. However, now, it seems to work pretty good.
I wish I would have had the forethought to use some foam in the speaker boxes as well. Oh well, I can pull them apart with the vibrations are too bad.
In the sound bar, I used:
Infinity Reference 6022i
6-1/2" 2-way car speakers For 6-1/2" and 6-3/4" openings (purchased from Crutchfield.com)
The stock speakers, I believe, are considered 6-3/4". Obviously, 6-1/2" speakers are much easier to get; and, they seem to fit just fine.
Infinity Reference 6022i
6-1/2" 2-way car speakers For 6-1/2" and 6-3/4" openings (purchased from Crutchfield.com)
The stock speakers, I believe, are considered 6-3/4". Obviously, 6-1/2" speakers are much easier to get; and, they seem to fit just fine.


