Rigid Light Bar Problems
Hello all! First time posting but have been using this forum for aid for a while. Well I just installed a Rigid Ind. 10" E series bar in front of the grill as well as a set of dually's next to the windshield. I used the wiring they sent with the lights with the exception of changing the switches as they did not match. The light bar is suppose to be brigher than the duallys but the duallys are actually brighter. Now, when the jeep is running the light bar flickers from dim to bright similar to there torture testing videos but does not flicker at all when the jeep is off. Both sets of lights are spliced into the same wires which are straight from the battery. They both have fuses and the bar has a relay. With the jeep off and the lights on; I went to every individual connection, relay, switch, light, and tapped and wriggled it all and the lights would not flicker. Now, with the jeep running and lights on, light bar flickers. If I my understanding of the lights is correct, then they have electronics inside them that convert and smooth out the power. Could this be an indication that the electronics are bad, and shouldn't the bar be much brighter anyways? Well, sorry if this was a bit long winded, just trying to help you help me!
Just kinda bummed, ya know!
Just kinda bummed, ya know!
Yes, ground is to the battery. I read on another forum that a guy had a problem with his 40" bar and Rigid told him to go straight to the battery with the connections, so thats what I did right off the bat.
I beleive thats your problem....you said you spliced into the same wire at the battery, try making those seperate. The wires they provide may not handle (what little there is) amp draw. Try this and report back, but I have a feeling this will fix it. Good luck
I will try switching the ground over when I get a chance to see if that helps. However, I believe in a DC system that ground and negative are one in the same. The only reason alot of devices go to chassis versus the battery is to save on wire. Also, on a hi amp draw stereo system, they are usually wired straight to batteries as that is a better connection. Plus, I have ten gauge wires hooked to the battery that feed both sets of Rigid lights directly that are literally spliced/saudered together. So if the light bar was flickering do to the ground then wouldn't the duallys as well? Thinking. Thanks!
I will try switching the ground over when I get a chance to see if that helps. However, I believe in a DC system that ground and negative are one in the same. The only reason alot of devices go to chassis versus the battery is to save on wire. Also, on a hi amp draw stereo system, they are usually wired straight to batteries as that is a better connection. Plus, I have ten gauge wires hooked to the battery that feed both sets of Rigid lights directly that are literally spliced/saudered together. So if the light bar was flickering do to the ground then wouldn't the duallys as well? Thinking. Thanks!
Have you tried the lights individually? As in disconnect the splice. If you bought the kits you should have enough wire?!? Or at least enough to test it. It sounds like something in the bar is not getting enough power maybe? Or something is physically wrong with the 10" bar. Try plugging it in to the dually light feed to eliminate wiring? I am not sure if they have the same waterproof connection as I only have dually's.
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I will try separating the splice and go straight to the battery individually to see if that narrows it down but remember it dose not flicker with the jeep off, only running. When the jeep is off I can literally bend the splice area every which way and still no flicker. It seems if that was the point of the problem then I could make it happen? Is anyone real familiar with how those light bars work as that is where my knowledge stops? PS. I won't be trouble shooting the wiring today, got the in laws over! I will post some pics too.


