Wiring the sPod to the dash lights
5 Attachment(s)
Wiring the sPod to the dash lights
...and any other two LED switches that have a separate feed for the bottom LEDs. You may also like... https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...ite-up-324369/ https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...ite-up-324463/ Using Gels To Change LED Switch Colors and Brightness I have one of the sPods that has a pushbutton to turn on the bottom array of LEDs, thus allowing easy visibility at night. And you can tell from the rockers that it is the older style of switches. They're 4 pin switches, not 5, but the lower LED is independent inside the switch. I have not tested this on any other configuration but a couple of members have had to also run a ground wire for the LEDs on the switch. I did not. Some sPods, depending on what you bought, already have the lower led ground pin jumped to the upper LED ground pin either internally or externally so you don't need to run a ground wire. If yours has no been jumped you can run a ground wire either to any ground in the tub or just jump it to the ground pin for the upper LED. If you don't have the pushbutton, you can just cut into the feed wire for the LED array instead, which is the wire that is on the opposite side of the pushbutton on mine. In other words, the pushbutton is simply inserted into the feed wire by sPod so you can turn the lower LED array on or off. You may not have the pushbutton but can still attach the lower LED array to the dash lights. What I wanted to do was wire this bottom array to a dimmable dash light circuit so when I turn on the dash lights, the array comes on and can be dimmed along with the dash lights. Also, since my sPod is mounted over the windshield, I wanted to be able to shut the array off at night if it becomes annoying when driving around town so I left the push button in the circuit by cutting into the feed for the pushbutton. For dimmable feeds and who confirmed them we have [table="width: 750, class: grid, align: left"] [tr] [td]Orange/Gray from...[/td] [td] 2007 [/td][td] 2008 [/td][td] 2009 [/td][td] 2010 [/td][td] 2011 [/td][td] 2012 [/td][td] 2013 [/td][td] 2014 [/td][td] 2015 [/td][td] 2016 [/td][/tr] [tr] [td]Power Window Switches[/td] [td][/td] [td] Vladimer [/td][td][/td] [td] SJ21XDC [/td][td][/td] [td] Vladimer [/td][td][/td] [td][/td] [td][/td] [td][/td] [/tr] [tr] [td]Footwell Light[/td] [td] N/A [/td][td] N/A [/td][td] N/A [/td][td] N/A [/td][td] N/A [/td][td] N/A [/td][td] N/A [/td][td] 14Sport [/td][td] David217 [/td][td][/td] [/tr] [tr] [td]HVAC Controls[/td] [td] Mark Doiron [/td][td][/td] [td][/td] [td][/td] [td] N/A [/td][td] N/A [/td][td] N/A [/td][td] N/A [/td][td] N/A [/td][td] N/A [/td][/tr] [tr] [td]Instrument Cluster (black connector)[/td] [td][/td] [td][/td] [td][/td] [td][/td] [td] Dale36 [/td][td] DJ1 [/td][td] Jonathan_JK [/td] [td][/td][td][/td] [td][/td] [/tr] [tr] [td]Power Mirror Controls[/td] [td][/td] [td][/td] [td][/td] [td][/td] [td][/td] [td][/td] [td][/td] [td][/td] [td][/td] [td][/td] [/tr] [/table] 2007 - 2015 with power windows...orange/gray from power window switches (thanks Vlad). See posts #29 and #45 for details (thanks SJ21XDC). https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/atta...2&d=1434456035 2013 - 2015...orange/gray from footwell light (this write-up) https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/atta...2&d=1411925188 2007 - 2010?...orange/gray from HVAC controls* (thanks Mark) *May require two wire install. See posts #25-27. https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/atta...7&d=1434457339 2007 - 2015? - orange/gray (black connector) from instrument cluster (Thanks, DJ1...see this link...https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-e...1/ https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/atta...3&d=1437306082 2007 - 2015 with power mirrors...orange/gray from power mirror switches. And now back to the sPod... The sPod removed from its bracket. https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/atta...2&d=1411923722 The wire that feeds the switch in the sPod. It is black and is fed from the middle pin of the last switch. This is where you need to cut. https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/atta...3&d=1411923763 In order to remove the sPod in the future, a connector should be attached to the new feed wire. I used Weather Pack connectors since the sPod is not water-tight and I go topless sometimes. https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/atta...4&d=1411923785 I added heat shrink tubing to the end of the unused wire. You can also see the completed weather pack connector. The other side of the connector feeds about 6 feet of 18 gauge wire which I will snake down to the drivers foot well. https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/atta...6&d=1411923854 I snaked the new wire (blue) along the same path as the interceptor wire, which is behind the header trim and down the a pillar trim and then out at the foot well. I managed to tuck the wire behind the sun visor trim by just loosening it. https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/atta...7&d=1411923886 Attachment 577582Attachment 577583Attachment 577584Attachment 577586Attachment 577587 |
5 Attachment(s)
I covered the wire with plastic sheathing because I'm kind of a stickler like that, especially when it is running against metal.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/atta...1&d=1411925156 I used a quick tap to tap into the dimmable wire since it is under the dash, not likely to get wet, and I am lazy. The wire I used was the orange with gray stripe on the 4 pin connector that feeds the foot well light when you open your door. To make it easier to work on, simply remove the connector from the light assembly. Mine just slid off with no tabs to be depressed. https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/atta...2&d=1411925188 Ready to re-install the sPod switch assembly. You can see the sPod connector, the Interceptor gauge connector, and the new weather pack connector for the push button switch. https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/atta...3&d=1411925223 Installation complete. This shows the bottom array of LEDS with the dash lights on and the dimmer switch in the full brightness position. https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/atta...4&d=1411925264 This is with the dash lights on and the dimmer switch in its lowest position before turning off. I lit up the red top led by turning on the switch so you could see the contrast. https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/atta...5&d=1411925296 That's it. It took about one and a half hours including taking all the pics. Pretty straightforward. Attachment 577591Attachment 577592Attachment 577593Attachment 577594Attachment 577595 |
Nice work! .........
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Originally Posted by Mark Doiron
(Post 3988377)
Nice work! .........
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Originally Posted by 14Sport
(Post 3988273)
I used a quick tap to tap into the dimmable wire since it is under the dash, not likely to get wet, and I am lazy. The wire I used was the orange with gray stripe on the 4 pin connector that feeds the foot well light when you open your door. To make it easier to work on, simply remove the connector from the light assembly. Mine just slid off with no tabs to be depressed. I really hate having a 2011... its such a pain trying to figure out what is '10 and what is '12. |
Nevermind the pic request, met up with one if the guys here, who has a '14 Rubi with the ambient lighting. I was able look his over, although I didn't have time (or his permission) to dig deeper and try to find where the foot well light harness connects to the main harness.
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Ok. I have tomorrow off so I can take a better look if you need me too. I believe it came off a harness that ran along the side just above the driver kick panel area. The wire you want to look for is orange with a gray stripe.
BTW, my wife has a 2012 and it does NOT have the footwell light. |
Originally Posted by aaron97
(Post 3989390)
Foot well lighting? Is that a 2014 thing? Do you think that you could take a pic of the area, I don't have foot well lighting, but how knows, the harness might be there. I have been looking all over the place for a suitable dimmable wire to power the light for my Autometer guage. I also plan to run some LED lighting for the center consul and foot wells as well.
I really hate having a 2011... its such a pain trying to figure out what is '10 and what is '12. |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Vladimer
(Post 3989865)
If you have power windows, pull the dash and the same orange/grey wire connects to the power windows switch. It is there 07-14 as I've tapped it on my 08 and 12
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I just installed the spod a few weeks ago and was wishing it was wired this way. I know what i am doing this weekend:beer:
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Originally Posted by 08_yellow_unlimited
(Post 3989905)
I just installed the spod a few weeks ago and was wishing it was wired this way. I know what i am doing this weekend:beer:
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Originally Posted by Vladimer
(Post 3989865)
If you have power windows, pull the dash and the same orange/grey wire connects to the power windows switch. It is there 07-14 as I've tapped it on my 08 and 12
I don't want to hijack this thread, so am about to start a new thread. My jeep has been a electrical enigma from day 1. For starters, the dome light doesn't turn on when your open the doors or use the manual on switch on the blinker arm. The window switches do not light up and the shifter (PND21) does not light up. Yet the rest of the days, HVAC and buttons all work fine. Here is the thread I started, as not to hijack this one... Interior Lighting Problem - Click Here |
The little button turns them on & off already. So you did all this work just to make them dimmable?
I just find this a little strange since the added benefit of an sPod is to not have to tie into the OEM wiring at all. Don't get me wrong, dimmable is cool, but is it really worth it? Btw, the Orange/white wire on the HVAC harness is the illumination circuit. In the footwell, I believe it's the purple/white. |
Originally Posted by JK-FREAK
(Post 3989989)
The little button turns them on & off already. So you did all this work just to make them dimmable?
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Yup I have left mine on many times.
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Originally Posted by 14Sport
(Post 3988273)
I covered the wire with plastic sheathing because I'm kind of a stickler like that, especially when it is running against metal.
Attachment 577591 I used a quick tap to tap into the dimmable wire since it is under the dash, not likely to get wet, and I am lazy. The wire I used was the orange with gray stripe on the 4 pin connector that feeds the foot well light when you open your door. To make it easier to work on, simply remove the connector from the light assembly. Mine just slid off with no tabs to be depressed. Attachment 577592 Ready to re-install the sPod switch assembly. You can see the sPod connector, the Interceptor gauge connector, and the new weather pack connector for the push button switch. Attachment 577593 Installation complete. This shows the bottom array of LEDS with the dash lights on and the dimmer switch in the full brightness position. Attachment 577594 This is with the dash lights on and the dimmer switch in its lowest position before turning off. I lit up the red top led by turning on the switch so you could see the contrast. Attachment 577595 That's it. It took about one and a half hours including taking all the pics. Pretty straightforward. |
Originally Posted by SJ21XDC
(Post 3990681)
Thanks for this write up. I just installed my spod yesterday and ran an extra wire to do this mod this weekend. I do want to clarify one thing, the wire you have labled interceptor is for the AeroForce gauge and not something I'm missing, correct?
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Originally Posted by 14Sport
(Post 3990683)
That is correct. You only have to run 1 wire from the sPod to the foot well. It is the blue one in the write-up.
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Thanks awesome! Nice job on the write up I have the first Gen but I'm hoping to upgrade and follow your write up! :thumbsup:
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Thanks, sm_rubi. You may be able to just update your switches I would think.
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4 Attachment(s)
Alright, got it sorted out for my 2007. Orange and silver wire in bundle behind HVAC controls provides variable dash light power. Black wire off power outlet provides negative.
Pull bottom center console panel and top center dash panel. Remove 7 mm hex head screws from center dash console--two at top and two at bottom. Pull console back to allow access behind it. Attachment 578801 Attach positive wire to orange/silver striped wire in bundle. Attach negative wire to black wire off Power Outlet. Attachment 578802 Voltage high light intensity. Attachment 578803 Low intensity. Attachment 578804 |
Originally Posted by Mark Doiron
(Post 3992346)
Attach positive wire to orange/silver striped wire in bundle. Attach negative wire to black wire off Power Outlet.
Attachment 578802 |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Mark Doiron
(Post 3992346)
Alright, got it sorted out for my 2007. Orange and silver wire in bundle behind HVAC controls provides variable dash light power. Black wire off power outlet provides negative.
Anyone know if 2013 has a footwell light? |
Originally Posted by aaron97
(Post 3992511)
Yep, 2011 doesn't look anything like that at all...
Edit: Missed your post 14Sport, sorry. Wouldn't of repeated it otherwise! |
The ground is from the Power Outlet. Works great for me!
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Originally Posted by Mark Doiron
(Post 3992863)
The ground is from the Power Outlet. Works great for me!
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Originally Posted by 14Sport
(Post 3992868)
Did you happen to try it without running the ground wire?
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Originally Posted by Mark Doiron
(Post 3993031)
No. It would seem it should work if you just ran ground from the oil pressure gauge light bulb to the vehicle sheetmetal. It would seem, but I have not tried it. I say "it would seem" because it's possible they have a floating ground, in which case you could experience weird problems if you ran to common ground.
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by 14Sport
(Post 3988272)
I have one of the sPods that has a pushbutton to turn on the bottom array of LEDs, thus allowing easy visibility at night. And you can tell from the rockers that it is the older style of switches. I have not tested this on any other configuration. What I wanted to do was wire this bottom array to a dimmable dash light circuit so when I turn on the dash lights, the array comes on and can be dimmed along with the dash lights. Also, since my sPod is mounted over the windshield, I wanted to be able to shut the array off at night if it becomes annoying when driving around town so I left the push button in the circuit.
For dimmable feeds so far we have: 2007 - 2014 with power windows...orange/gray from power window switches (thanks Vlad) 2014 (maybe 2013?)...orange/gray from footwell light 2007 - 2014...orange/gray from HVAC controls* (thanks Mark) *May require two wire install. See posts #25-27. The sPod removed from its bracket. Attachment 577582 The wire that feeds the switch in the sPod. It is black and is fed from the middle pin of the last switch. This is where you need to cut. Attachment 577583 In order to remove the sPod in the future, a connector should be attached to the new feed wire. I used Weather Pack connectors since the sPod is not water-tight and I go topless sometimes. Attachment 577584 I added heat shrink tubing to the end of the unused wire. You can also see the completed weather pack connector. The other side of the connector feeds about 6 feet of 18 gauge wire which I will snake down to the drivers foot well. Attachment 577586 I snaked the new wire (blue) along the same path as the interceptor wire, which is behind the header trim and down the a pillar trim and then out at the foot well. I managed to tuck the wire behind the sun visor trim by just loosening it. Attachment 577587 FYI - On my 2010 Rubicon, I picked up the dimmable power at the window switches. There are (4) orange wires behind the switch panel. Three are approximately the same size (2) Orange with blue stripes and (1) Orange with gray stripe (I tapped this first and it blew the 5 amp fuse on the Source). The other wire is orange with a gray stripe and is smaller than the other three. This is the one that ended up working for me. Here's a picture of the wire that I used. Attachment 580740 |
Originally Posted by SJ21XDC
(Post 3999397)
Thanks for the write up - works great!
FYI - On my 2010 Rubicon, I picked up the dimmable power at the window switches. There are (4) orange wires behind the switch panel. Three are approximately the same size (2) Orange with blue stripes and (1) Orange with gray stripe (I tapped this first and it blew the 5 amp fuse on the Source). The other wire is orange with a gray stripe and is smaller than the other three. This is the one that ended up working for me. Here's a picture of the wire that I used. Attachment 580740 |
2 Attachment(s)
Thanks SJ21XDC for showing which wire to tape for the window switches. I am going to reference this post number above. Good job![/QUOTE]
You're welcome and thank you for the write-up! Also, here are a couple pictures of the switches lit up. Attachment 580839 Attachment 580840 |
This is a fantastic write up.
I'm wanting to do this with my Rugged Ridge A-Pillar pod with OTRATTW switches for illumination on a 14 JK, but just want to double check. This Orange/Grey for under dash lights wire is a switched wire and not a constant, correct. Will the pod lights come on only when dash lights are on or when ignition is turned on. I also assume I will need to run a ground wire from the switch for this connection. Thanks, I know several people that will benefit from this forum post. |
Originally Posted by RUBINOT
(Post 4006649)
This is a fantastic write up. I'm wanting to do this, but just want t double check. This Orange/Grey for under dash lights wire is a switched wire and not a constant, correct. Will the pod lights come on only when dash lights are on or when ignition is turned on. Thanks
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Originally Posted by RUBINOT
(Post 4006649)
This is a fantastic write up.
I'm wanting to do this with my Rugged Ridge A-Pillar pod with OTRATTW switches for illumination on a 14 JK, but just want to double check. This Orange/Grey for under dash lights wire is a switched wire and not a constant, correct. Will the pod lights come on only when dash lights are on or when ignition is turned on. I also assume I will need to run a ground wire from the switch for this connection. Thanks, I know several people that will benefit from this forum post. As far as having to run a ground, if your lower LEDs on the switches come on now, they are already grounded. All you're doing here is changing the flow of power to the LEDs. Should be, in most cases, a one wire install. But on my sPod, the whole bottom array of LEDs are fed from one switch which makes it easy. If your bottom LEDs come on individually, it will be a little more complex, but still doable. How do you turn on the bottom LEDs now? I will be able to help you more if I know what you have. |
I have 4 of the OTRATTW switches. They are 5 lead switches. 3 leads are for the on/off power (ground, positive in and positive out) the other two leads are for the illumination lights (positive and ground). Hope this make sense so far.
I have the 3 leads all wired and working without a problem, ground all piggy backed and positive in all piggy backed and of course a single wire out for each accessory. I have wired the illumination side the same way, piggy backing positive and negative, just wasn't sure where to hook up the positive so it was switched. I'm thinking all I need to do is connect the positive to the orange/grey wire and then connect the ground wire. |
Originally Posted by RUBINOT
(Post 4006672)
I have 4 of the OTRATTW switches. They are 5 lead switches. 3 leads are for the on/off power (ground, positive in and positive out) the other two leads are for the illumination lights (positive and ground). Hope this make sense so far.
I have the 3 leads all wired and working without a problem, ground all piggy backed and positive in all piggy backed and of course a single wire out for each accessory. I have wired the illumination side the same way, piggy backing positive and negative, just wasn't sure where to hook up the positive so it was switched. I'm thinking all I need to do is connect the positive to the orange/grey wire and then connect the ground wire. |
Sounds good. Thanks for the help. I'll let you know tomorrow how it goes, as I will do it in the morning.
PS: should I run a fuse between the orange /grey wire and the switches |
Originally Posted by RUBINOT
(Post 4006681)
Sounds good. Thanks for the help. I'll let you know tomorrow how it goes, as I will do it in the morning.
PS: should I run a fuse between the orange /grey wire and the switches The LEDs draw milliamps so you should not need a fuse. The dash light fuse should be sufficient. |
Thanks :thumbsup:
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Originally Posted by RUBINOT
(Post 4006685)
Thanks :thumbsup:
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