Originally Posted by TheDirtman

The Genright Elite kit is worth studying a bit. They still have limited separation in the frame links and I don't the orientation of the upper frame mounts. It does require a fuel cell though so you are likely not going with a double triangulated set up. Typically on a JK kit set up the axle side lower control arm and shock mounts are hanging too low. Move the lowers as wide as you can and up closer to the center of the tube so they don't hang down and it will flatten the lower links for better ride and geometry. French the frame and outboard some 14" 2.0 coil-overs. On the frame side lowers, mount to the outside of the frame and trim the body mount. You will want to keep them close to the bottom of the frame rail and put them as close as you can the the output shaft flange on the transfer case. Mount the frame side uppers as far up on the outside of the frame as you can. On the front clear run a 2.0 coil over. Move the steering box and frame track bar bracket forward and move the steering box up a couple inches. Cut off the passenger side frame front and reconfigure with smaller tubing for clearance on the track bar and drag link. I would try and line up the lower links with the bottom of the frame. Keep the uppers as again as high as you can get them inside the frame. You should be at a 10" link separation on the axles and around 5:-6" on the uppers.

And get some real tires, not the Lite Brite specials.

Originally Posted by 2011oscarmike

What are your thoughts on EVO DTD with High Clearance LA's? Seem to a little less complicated, even more so with body off. Agree on the tires. Thanks

Originally Posted by Wallyman424

Thanks for the input, I do appreciate it, but I think I'm sticking with this setup for the time being. A custom suspension may take you two days, but would take me a lot longer. I'll need more time to figure it all out.

As for the tires, point taken. Nothing's been ordered yet.

Originally Posted by TheDirtman

Its for people that don't know what they are doing and want coil overs and bypass shocks to look cool.

Originally Posted by TheDirtman

You are buying good components and spending a ton extra on their brackets. Almost everybody runs it with too little lift and almost nobody tunes it to get the benefit out of the system. Some of the parts from King are specific to their kit and you can not buy parts from anyone but EVO if you need a replacement. I never said EVO does not know what they are doing, its the customer that does not know what they are doing. Same thing with Rebel

Originally Posted by TheDirtman

I have a fab shop and build custom suspensions so I am around the stuff. It's hard to grasp some of the concepts if you are not doing that kind of work and it is hard to get people to understand on a forum. Having a welder come in would not be any cheaper than going to a shop as people don't understand that you have to fit and tack stuff, then cycle the suspension for conflicts, then make adjustments and do a final weld. The teardown and frame prep is really only about a day if you can stay on it without interruptions. I rebuild shocks and have been in some of the EVO tuned shocks and don't see anything special about them. One thing to be aware of is the rear shocks are 11" travel. You rarely find two jeeps that are the same and weight and shock ratio play a lot into the ride and performance of the system. Some tuning should be done after a coil over and bypass set up is installed. I mean you are spending a ton of money on the shiny shocks, you should at least get everything you can out of them. Sorry for the thread hijack.