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2008 JKU LS swap, 40s, everything inbetween

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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 06:12 PM
  #21  
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Spent the day cleaning up the frame, not a perfect job but it turned out pretty well. I used a bunch of 120 grit flap discs, a needle descaler and a wire wheel to knock off most of the visible and surface rust. Then I treated the metal 4 times with POR15 metal prep rust neutralizer. After that cleaned off the frame one last time and then shot it with VHT chassis black. I'll hit it again when the suspension is off to make sure I get all the hard to reach areas.


This is during the rust treatment

After


Don't mind the still cruddy transmission crossmember. That's getting replaced with an Artec HD crossmember. Ive got the steering box off, tomorrow I need to package it up and ship it off to Howe. While I wait for parts I'll probably start installing my compromised suspension.
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Old Jan 17, 2021 | 01:31 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Wallyman424
While I wait for parts I'll probably start installing my compromised suspension.
Enjoy yourself
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Old Jan 31, 2021 | 02:35 PM
  #23  
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Cut off the engine mounts and front control arm mounts. Both engine mounts are welded in and one control arm mounts is done. I'm hoping the engine and transmission will arrive in the next week.



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Old Feb 14, 2021 | 02:11 PM
  #24  
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Couple updates:

Trans arrived. Engine is being delivered tomorrow.


Got the I've got the suspension arms mocked up. Everything will be final installed when the new axles show up.



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Old Feb 28, 2021 | 02:47 PM
  #25  
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I went back and forth as to whether I'd do this, but in the end I'm glad I did. My hope is that this provides pretty good protection against corrosion and possibly helps with some small amount of sound and heat protection.

My plan is when the frame and body are remarried to raptorline the interior, rear wheelwells, rockers, and whatever flat fenders/bumpers I get. This stuff is pretty idiot-proof.



Paint prep is a pain in the butt.


The end result. Looks pretty good to me. I'm still going to be using a new stock firewall insulation blanket, but this should also add some protection


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Old Mar 1, 2021 | 07:37 AM
  #26  
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Not sure if you have to smack the top center of the firewall just below the hood hinge line to clear the back of the manifold with the LS but my LT I had to. Just saying because it will be tons easier with your body off. Nice project and I am 120hp behind you and really like it so yours will be better. Whose ECU interface are you using?
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Old Mar 1, 2021 | 07:47 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Sixty4x4
Not sure if you have to smack the top center of the firewall just below the hood hinge line to clear the back of the manifold with the LS but my LT I had to. Just saying because it will be tons easier with your body off. Nice project and I am 120hp behind you and really like it so yours will be better. Whose ECU interface are you using?
That's one of the reasons I'm going ls vs lt. The ls motors are much more compact, mainly from the intake and rear of the motor.

I'm using john's kit from overland performance.
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Old Mar 1, 2021 | 07:59 AM
  #28  
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I see now - they are using Robbies key stuff from Motech. CAN interface and Power Distribution center. The two key components that make the Jeep electrics functional. Doesn,t seem like anyone else can do it properly but good choice as it works.
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Old Mar 2, 2021 | 05:40 AM
  #29  
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Many improvements in Johns kits, not std Motec stuff.
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Old Mar 2, 2021 | 06:01 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by caryt
Many improvements in Johns kits, not std Motec stuff.
Yup most of johns stuff is his own. I believe the mocan module is a crossover though.

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