Yeah, I get what youre saying on the axle size. I started this project with a beat old wrangler X, so the axles underneath were completely useless to me. As with everything car related with me, its a slippery slope, first you look at dana 60 packages, and you notice the 80 is only a couple grand more. You start thinking about future proofing the rig, and then you've justified the purchase. The second factor is tire size. I'm no expert, but the diameter and weight of a 40" wheel and tire package really increases the stress on driveline components.

And I think the tracbar picture is a little deceiving, as the axle is really tucked up in there, ride height would leave a lot more space. I'll definitely be re-evaluating it once i get around to cycling the suspension to look for interferences.

 

In all fairness, I don’t think MC had wider axles in mind when they designed that track bar. MC has some great stuff but their products are really geared towards bolt on type things. So unless I’m mistaken, I think that track bar may not be optimal for a larger axle. Honestly, if/when I go to a full size axle I’ll likely do a triangulated link setup and get rid of my track bars.

 

Ok, so I spent a little bit of time cycling the rear suspension up and down, and I definitely need to make some track bar changes. I think I need to move the frame side mount rearwards 1-2 inches, and then go with a different track bar. The teraflex HD unit looks like it will work, has a bow out near the diff case.

 

You should be able to use a straight link with heim joints for the track bar. Some outboarded shocks and an outside frame track bar would be nice so you could have moved the axle bracket farther to the left and put a really long track bar on there to minimize side to side axle
movement.

 

Dirtman, do you fab your own brackets or do you buy from a supplier?

 

Depends on the bracket but I buy most of them since I don't have a huge CNC press. Ballistic fabrication, ruff stuff specialties, and Barnes 4x4 is who I typically use and have been buying more from Barnes than anyone else the last year or so.

 

Went ahead and mated and mounted the engine and trans. Again ratchet straps are the best assistant.

For the trackbar I think I'll move the mount rearwards a bit and use a different bar. I think moving it rearwards will provide all the clearance I need, if not I'll get a bar with a bow out at the diff.

I don't want to do too much jacking around with it, because my intention is to get the swap running and then tear back into it in a year or two for a full suspension.

 

New addition to the family has made progress a bit slower, but should be picking up again in the next few weeks. Had a couple hours today to replace the input gear of the transfer case. Its amazing how good the internals and bearings looked after 240k miles. It was actually a very easy job. Removing the one snapped housing bolt took longer than the actual R&R of the input gear. The last hiccup was my own stupid doing. I tapped in the input shaft seal before putting the gear and snap ring back in... doh... jobs done, just waiting a new timken seal.

To anyone looking to do this job themselves:
- make sure you have a good pair of circlip expanding pliers
- I used loctite 515 to seal the case, really nice stuff. I've used it in the past with great success


New part on the right

All taken apart

 

Did that one myself. Pretty easy. I used "The Right Stuff" to seal with. Zero leaks and case is as dry as a popcorn fart.

 

Had a couple hours today, mounted up the front drive accessories and finished the transfer case. I'm only a few weekends away from dropping the body back on the frame, the limiting factor is when my Nitto trail grapplers will arrive. Theyre on backorder everywhere.



The tape measure was just helping me line up the TC output shaft with the diff input