No, not doubting your built, I have just been there and done that with mine several times working the bugs out from taking shortcuts and offer my help so others don't make the mistakes I made.
I wish I would have just cut the whole back end off to begin with (actually I should have just built a buggy) like you have done. It makes things so much easier to build and not have to worry about clearances.
I have ripped brackets off the frame and axle due to not having enough separation. Actually ripped a section of the frame out on the front upper.

I recently rebuilt a whole new sub frame for the suspension and exhaust so I can remove the transfer case, transmission and clutch without removing any of the suspension. My previous designs did not take working on the the drivetrain into account and I basically had to remove the entire suspicion and axle to change out the clutch. The new sub frame also has the exhaust routed thru it that protects the mufflers and keeps things nice and tidy. I was able to really get more separation in the rear links (went from 3" to 6") with the new design although I lost some of the ground clearance but have a smooth bottom with no links or brackets hanging down to catch on rocks. I still have to raise my axle side upper about an inch and a half to get a bit more anti squat in the rear.

I am concerned about the lower links you have mounted on just a 2" dom without any other real support, with nearly a half ton hanging from those mounts with such little separation looks like a place of failure.

I am curious about you going full hydraulic up front on the steering, I have studied this a bit and have been hesitant as I run mine on the road quite a bit. Your OP said you planned on running it on the road. Did you use a orbital valve with a return? I have seen one of them out there and that is typically the big issue running full on the road. It really opens up the front and makes thing easier to fit and increase up travel. I will be re doing the front of mine sometime soon and am trying to gain a couple of inches of up travel.

Have you got a design for the rear cage or are you going to wing it? I would look for opertunites to intergrade storage areas in it for tools and spare parts since etc cargo area is gone. A cooler shelf with tie downs would be a big plus as well.

Like I said, looking great and will keep following this build.

 

I am going to re-enforce and gusset the tube holding my lower link when i go to fully weld everything... And I honestly am not sure about my steering orbital. I got all the stuff PSC recommended for double ended full hydro on a jk. I built a toyota crawler over a years ago and its full hydro and honestly I wouldn't own another offroad rig that wasn't fully hydro. Makes suspension simple, effortless turning (1 finger in a rock garden), and it honestly is not that bad on the road. I'm wing-ing the rear cage honestly but I have a good idea in my head of what I plan on doing. Im sort of modeling it off of a friends cage but mostly using my creativity. I have build a roll cage before on my yota crawler so, I have a pretty good idea of whats do-able and what isn't. Heres a pic of what I'm kinda basing my cage on (simple and strong) And he is a couple pics of my yota build.

 

Main frame tube is welded into place. Im gonna clean up the edges of the 1/4" plates welded to the tube and frame. Now i need to build cage mount rear oris and ill have a rolling chassis.

 

Making steady progress. Have the driver seat half way mounted.

 

Are you planning on raising your engine mounts?

 

No, I honestly don't plan on it. Gonna roll with it for a while. I don't think I'm putting too much extra stress on them with the raising of the tranny.

 

I was not concerned with stress not the mounts. I was curious about driveline angles and how much droop you are going to have before the driveshaft binds. By raising the transfer case side only you put more angle at the output. Have you measured droop with the driveshaft connected with the low pinion axle?
Curious on the numbers. How far did you raise the TC? 2" or so?

 

Are you still planning on driving 75 down the highway? Do you think it will be decently comfortable? Where you located? Also I've always somewhat wondered, what is the margin of error in something like this in regards to measurements being off impacting the drivability? Build is coming along great!

 

There is aways some kind of compromise when working on a production vehicle. You can feel small changes in geometry. I am currently working on my 5th incarnation of the rear suspension and could tell quite a bit of difference between each build. Mainly the squat and body lean. Right now I am increasing my anti squat from the mid 40's to around 95% and have worked it out so I have 7" of up travel on a 4" lift. It will help with some go fast and hopefully eliminate bottoming out except on the biggest bumps without ripping brackets off the frame.

 

No, I haven't yet bc still in the mock up stage. Once I get the struts mocked up, im gonna have to make sure everything is gonna work together without binding. And yes id say about 2"