Auto or Manual for offroading - why?
Auto because it is simply one less thing to do while enjoying the outdoors and nature. But then it does not matter that much because I do not go fast nor have I ever shifted (had standards and other autos before this) much when I am offroad. Either one works well though it depends more on the driver and what they are used to than the actual benifits of one or the other.
It boils down to preference, manuals are great for fuel economy, jk autos are prone to overheating and apparently not doing all that great in the towing arena without overheating, but are convenienent, widely loved for rock-crawling. Most drivers that have manuals and use them offroad especially rock-crawling have enough experience to know how to use them effectively, it boils down to skill and experience.
Main thing is get what you like and you probably should have done a poll if your deciding factor was "what a group of folks on the internet thought you should get"
Main thing is get what you like and you probably should have done a poll if your deciding factor was "what a group of folks on the internet thought you should get"
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,231
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From: Guam - PCSing to McGuire AFB, NJ in July '09
It boils down to preference, manuals are great for fuel economy, jk autos are prone to overheating and apparently not doing all that great in the towing arena without overheating, but are convenienent, widely loved for rock-crawling. Most drivers that have manuals and use them offroad especially rock-crawling have enough experience to know how to use them effectively, it boils down to skill and experience.
Main thing is get what you like and you probably should have done a poll if your deciding factor was "what a group of folks on the internet thought you should get"
Main thing is get what you like and you probably should have done a poll if your deciding factor was "what a group of folks on the internet thought you should get"

In the end, I will get what I want and I just want to make sure I make an informed decision and am happy with my choice when I do.
I like to be able to get input from "internet users" rather than just have the dealer steer me toward whatever he has more of in stock!
I've heard stories of auto trannys shifting up to 2nd when least expected (and when most unwanted) like when crawling down a steep hill and putting the rig/occupants at risk. Were those just horror stories, anomalies?
Last edited by jeeperjkj; Apr 29, 2008 at 12:20 PM.
I love manuals, but my Rubi is automatic. I've noticed that for rock climbing, which is a lot of what I do, its hard to beat the automatic mated to the 4:1 t-case. I miss the manual for DD driving and hill climbs and descents, but it more than makes up for itself offroad...IMHO
I also realized that the torque converter is covered by the lifetime powertrain whereas a clutch is not.
I also realized that the torque converter is covered by the lifetime powertrain whereas a clutch is not.
Thread Starter
JK Super Freak
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 0
From: Guam - PCSing to McGuire AFB, NJ in July '09
I love manuals, but my Rubi is automatic. I've noticed that for rock climbing, which is a lot of what I do, its hard to beat the automatic mated to the 4:1 t-case. I miss the manual for DD driving and hill climbs and descents, but it more than makes up for itself offroad...IMHO
I also realized that the torque converter is covered by the lifetime powertrain whereas a clutch is not.
I also realized that the torque converter is covered by the lifetime powertrain whereas a clutch is not.
I posted this is a separate thread, too, but I just got this in an email from Atlas.
I have a new application coming out for the 42RLE Auto transmission. It replaces the factory tail housing with a doubler allowing you to use a factory t-case. so technically if you run the Rubicon setup with its 4.0/1 the doubler would make it into a 4 speed (without driveline mods). You would have 2.72 / 4.0 / 10.88 to 1 and also a high range of 1 to 1.
Actually, it's not BS at all. There have been several members of this forum that have clutched while in deep mud, and ended up sucking the muck into their tranny... which in all but one or two cases was not covered under warranty. 
This isn't to say that ALL manuals will instantly roll over and die in mud, but it IS a known engineering issue/defect.
I haven't seen any reports of similar with automatic transmissions. But don't feel bad: we auto owners get to watch out for the possibility that our trans fluid will overflow into the engine compartment and cause a fire that'll burn the JK to the ground.

This isn't to say that ALL manuals will instantly roll over and die in mud, but it IS a known engineering issue/defect.
I haven't seen any reports of similar with automatic transmissions. But don't feel bad: we auto owners get to watch out for the possibility that our trans fluid will overflow into the engine compartment and cause a fire that'll burn the JK to the ground.
Here goes again: How will clutching draw in muck into the tranny, and not clutching keep out muck? I can't see how that works.
Well I've done it in my old 07 TJ and for me what happened was upon pressing the clutch, it pushes the throwout bearing, pressing the spring loaded clutch-plate away from the engine flywheel. This action creates a distance between the two and the kind of mud I was in (goopy and real wet) seeped in from the bottom 3/8" x 6" long opening between the engine bell housing and tranny and got between the flywheel and clutchplate. That was it, I was done couldn't move till strapped out. I replaced the clutch and saw I could have maybe power-washed it maybe from the bottom gap perhaps dismounting the mud but didn't know any better at the time.
Well I've done it in my old 07 TJ and for me what happened was upon pressing the clutch, it pushes the throwout bearing, pressing the spring loaded clutch-plate away from the engine flywheel. This action creates a distance between the two and the kind of mud I was in (goopy and real wet) seeped in from the bottom 3/8" x 6" long opening between the engine bell housing and tranny and got between the flywheel and clutchplate. That was it, I was done couldn't move till strapped out. I replaced the clutch and saw I could have maybe power-washed it maybe from the bottom gap perhaps dismounting the mud but didn't know any better at the time.
In your case, I fully understand.



