Sure, I will get all of them together, but I shopped at Partsexpress.com (gas free, but shipping), Jameco.com (gas free, but shipping), Radioshack (500 ft from front door of work) , Walmart(work) and the only extra driving (from daily) was to Autozone. I'll get all the part numbers and do a writeup, give me a few days though.

 

That is a great idea, good workmanship to. The good news is that it is also dishwasher safe..

Speaking of the inclosure, you may want to look into a NEMA style box. You could go as far as to use Liquid Tight duct thru the firewall.

Address to the type of box I was thinking about.

budind.com/view.php?part=n4x-pnr

 

@ dishwasher safe...that's messed up

 

thanks Zoom, will be a great writeup for the do-it-yourselfer types.

 

Thats why I suggested a NEMA inclosure, the PN series is good to 250 degress F. Its waterproof too.

 

++ biggest issue I see as well....

Otherwise a great idea . I think this is a great idea to cut out the labor cost. Maybe just find a new enclosure or build one..and you're there.

 

I would suggest a nema 4,4x,are watertight standard nema 1 is not. They make them in all sort of materials. When I make mine I will use a fiberglass nema 4

 

You got any pics yet of your switch set-up? I'm waiting to see how well that turns out

 

Not yet. Probably going to work on that tomorrow.

I made sure it was, that way I can run through a CAR wash with it.

Still not sure how it'll hold up, but I know it is microwave safe, so that might be a start, and at a whole $4 (I think $3.97ish) if it melts, I will replace with something else.
Edit: Did a quick check and it is capable of about 265 degrees Fahrenheit.
From their website "The containers are heat resistant to 130℃"

It is really easy to adapt it for a 6, but I only wanted the 4 in it. I will have all the prices, excluding taxes and shipping, in the write-up. Probably the hardest part will be getting the fuses through the sides of the box, but as you can see there is room for a lot more.

 

Well, I know it took a while for me to post, but I just finished my switch panel to go with my enclosure. Actual work time was not very long, except for the 3 attempts to paint, which I didn't like then had to remove.
I know one switch is upside-down (2), that is because it is a messed up switch. The housing was placed wrong in the factory, and it is always on instead of off. I used bridge rectifiers (1), for the solution to the possible back flow of power ruining the switches. I also included a relay (3) that will be powered by the cigarette light, in turn making this only work when the Jeep is on.
(1)

(2)

(3)

Still figuring out a way to connect it to the plastic header over the windshield without making holes.
I am working on a writeup, so that'll be posted soon.