KevinMac's Semi-Budget Build...Project Deathstar
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 422
Likes: 24
From: The D, MI
Motech doesn't send it with yoke nuts. You're supposed to swap your yokes and nuts from your current case.
Bent stud stinks, but an easy fix.
And you re-use your t-case sensor as well. Btw, don't install the front yoke until the t-case is in and you have the engagement lever reattached. The Rubi case is slightly different and you won't be able to get it bolted on with the yoke on.
Bent stud stinks, but an easy fix.
And you re-use your t-case sensor as well. Btw, don't install the front yoke until the t-case is in and you have the engagement lever reattached. The Rubi case is slightly different and you won't be able to get it bolted on with the yoke on.
Too bad the weather didn't hold out for me, who would have guessed we'd get 2" of snow?!
Looks like I'm on hold and will try again tomorrow after work!
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 422
Likes: 24
From: The D, MI
The new transfer case is in!! 
Let me start by saying, it came out a heck of a lot easier than it went in. Holy shit is that thing heavy...and unbalanced...you really don't realize HOW heavy until you are bench pressing it while trying to line up the studs to the holes in the rear of the tranny. What did I learn from this activity? Purchase or borrow a tranny jack, no questions asked.
So there it is! I took Invest2m4's advice and left the front yoke off, just in case. I had enough room to get the linkage all hooked up without problems. I also blue loc-tited the stud nuts, for safe keeping. I left the front DS out as my ball joints are still back ordered, so I can't put the new front axle in yet. Happily, my test drive was uneventful. I tried 4H, 4L (definitely a different feel) and 2H, all worked as expected without any weird noises, vibrations, etc. I will take it to work tomorrow and put a few more miles on it. 
Let me start by saying, it came out a heck of a lot easier than it went in. Holy shit is that thing heavy...and unbalanced...you really don't realize HOW heavy until you are bench pressing it while trying to line up the studs to the holes in the rear of the tranny. What did I learn from this activity? Purchase or borrow a tranny jack, no questions asked.
So there it is! I took Invest2m4's advice and left the front yoke off, just in case. I had enough room to get the linkage all hooked up without problems. I also blue loc-tited the stud nuts, for safe keeping. I left the front DS out as my ball joints are still back ordered, so I can't put the new front axle in yet.
Happily, my test drive was uneventful. I tried 4H, 4L (definitely a different feel) and 2H, all worked as expected without any weird noises, vibrations, etc. I will take it to work tomorrow and put a few more miles on it.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 422
Likes: 24
From: The D, MI
So with the installation of the new transfer case, I took the opportunity to try to create my fix for the plastic bushing in the t-case cable that I know will fail. Several good ideas were tossed out in this thread and I kind of took them to the next level.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...repair-177095/
To start, I took some caliper measurements of the stock cable end, with the bushing removed. One side was .480" but it tapered down to .430" on the other side. I then measured up the pin on the transfer case, it was about .305"
A new bushing seems to be the common fix, finding the right sizes seemed to be the challenge. I decided to just make my own. On the cable side, I decided that .480" was real close to .500". I can buy 1/2" drill rod anywhere, so off to Lowe's I went. They had 3' lengths of aluminum drill rod on the shelf, perfect! 
I brought that home and drilled a hole down the center of it, just bigger than the t-case pin as I don't want too sloppy of a fit. I then measured the length of the pin on the t-case, from the selector flange to where it changes diameter where I could use a hitch pin or clip to hold it together snuggly. Once I had this, I fired up my chop saw and cut the hollowed drill rod to a length of .475"
Ok, now the fun part...assembly!! With my new case in and set to go with the exception on the cable, I grabbed my trusty Dewalt and threw a 1/2" drill bit in it. I then took the cable end and made it .500" the entire width through (was .430"-.480"). From there, I took the new bushing I made and pressed it into the cable with a set of vise grips. As you can see in the next 2 photos, I pressed the bushing in so it was flush to the side of the cable that meets up to the selector flange.
I then went ahead and put the cable (with new bushing) onto the t-case pin, flush side to the selector flange. I then took this little guy and a set of needle nose pliers and snapped it on to the end of the pin.
The fit to the pin of this clip is great, nice and tight. Also, the clip is almost line to line with the face of the bushing, so there is almost no axial movement.
It's a bit hard to see in this next photo but if you look closely, you can see the clip flush to the face of the bushing.
So, that's my fix! I rowed the t-case back and forth through all the gears multiple times and all functions as intended, nice and smoothly. I'm pretty confident in this bushing and will now be making another for the shifter side of the cable! I hope this helps someone else out!
- Costs:
* 1/2" Drill Rod - $7
* Clip - $2
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...repair-177095/
To start, I took some caliper measurements of the stock cable end, with the bushing removed. One side was .480" but it tapered down to .430" on the other side. I then measured up the pin on the transfer case, it was about .305"
A new bushing seems to be the common fix, finding the right sizes seemed to be the challenge. I decided to just make my own.
On the cable side, I decided that .480" was real close to .500". I can buy 1/2" drill rod anywhere, so off to Lowe's I went. They had 3' lengths of aluminum drill rod on the shelf, perfect! I brought that home and drilled a hole down the center of it, just bigger than the t-case pin as I don't want too sloppy of a fit. I then measured the length of the pin on the t-case, from the selector flange to where it changes diameter where I could use a hitch pin or clip to hold it together snuggly. Once I had this, I fired up my chop saw and cut the hollowed drill rod to a length of .475"
Ok, now the fun part...assembly!!
With my new case in and set to go with the exception on the cable, I grabbed my trusty Dewalt and threw a 1/2" drill bit in it. I then took the cable end and made it .500" the entire width through (was .430"-.480"). From there, I took the new bushing I made and pressed it into the cable with a set of vise grips. As you can see in the next 2 photos, I pressed the bushing in so it was flush to the side of the cable that meets up to the selector flange.
I then went ahead and put the cable (with new bushing) onto the t-case pin, flush side to the selector flange. I then took this little guy and a set of needle nose pliers and snapped it on to the end of the pin.
The fit to the pin of this clip is great, nice and tight. Also, the clip is almost line to line with the face of the bushing, so there is almost no axial movement.
It's a bit hard to see in this next photo but if you look closely, you can see the clip flush to the face of the bushing.
So, that's my fix! I rowed the t-case back and forth through all the gears multiple times and all functions as intended, nice and smoothly. I'm pretty confident in this bushing and will now be making another for the shifter side of the cable! I hope this helps someone else out!
- Costs:
* 1/2" Drill Rod - $7
* Clip - $2
Last edited by KevinMac; Apr 1, 2015 at 05:15 PM.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 422
Likes: 24
From: The D, MI
I gave a call to the vendor who I oredered my ball joints from as I hadn't heard a word on their status in over a week. Parts are still on back order but they arranged to have a set drop shipped from Teralfex on Monday so I should have them at the end of this week. 
In the meantime, I pulled the axles and knuckles off of my new front Rubi axle. With them out, I inspected the inside of the tubes and they are immaculate, as would be expected with a 0 mile part.
For shits and giggles, I test fit this guy on the short side...
...it fit pretty well, as I'd had it in my freezer for a couple of days. Since I have 0 patience, I greased it up, said F it and gave it a good whack with a 2lb sledge and in it went!
Well, most of the way anyway. It took about a dozen hits using a bearing setting puck to put it flush with the tube end. I'll admit it, I got lucky, there is no way I'd try this with the long side. 
That will get the full dry ice and 10lb sledge treatment once it's on the Jeep. Or possibly an air hammer...the guy in this video is a rock star!!!
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...r-sore-297911/
That's all for now, Happy Easter all!
In the meantime, I pulled the axles and knuckles off of my new front Rubi axle. With them out, I inspected the inside of the tubes and they are immaculate, as would be expected with a 0 mile part.
For shits and giggles, I test fit this guy on the short side...
...it fit pretty well, as I'd had it in my freezer for a couple of days. Since I have 0 patience, I greased it up, said F it and gave it a good whack with a 2lb sledge and in it went!
Well, most of the way anyway. It took about a dozen hits using a bearing setting puck to put it flush with the tube end. I'll admit it, I got lucky, there is no way I'd try this with the long side. That will get the full dry ice and 10lb sledge treatment once it's on the Jeep. Or possibly an air hammer...the guy in this video is a rock star!!!https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...r-sore-297911/
That's all for now, Happy Easter all!
Last edited by KevinMac; Apr 4, 2015 at 04:36 PM.
JK Newbie
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Beaufort, NC
Doing the ATC mod
Hi Kevin....I'm doing the ATC conversion on a '14 Sahara, and was going by your writeup. Great job and great pictures and writeup. Got a quick question;
You called for a 22-4 wire. I've ordered this http://vod.ebay.com/vod/FetchOrderDe...E:L:OC:US:5919 and am not sure what the guage of the wires are. Being a clutz with electricity, my question is; would it be a problem if the wire was a larger guage? The wires that came with the connector are long enough, and I could remove them and solder on the 22 stuff, but is it necessary for it to safely work properly?
Is your system still working well? I've enjoyed studying your writeup, and look forward to doing it myself. Thanks
Don
You called for a 22-4 wire. I've ordered this http://vod.ebay.com/vod/FetchOrderDe...E:L:OC:US:5919 and am not sure what the guage of the wires are. Being a clutz with electricity, my question is; would it be a problem if the wire was a larger guage? The wires that came with the connector are long enough, and I could remove them and solder on the 22 stuff, but is it necessary for it to safely work properly?
Is your system still working well? I've enjoyed studying your writeup, and look forward to doing it myself. Thanks
Don
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 422
Likes: 24
From: The D, MI
Hi Kevin....I'm doing the ATC conversion on a '14 Sahara, and was going by your writeup. Great job and great pictures and writeup. Got a quick question;
You called for a 22-4 wire. I've ordered this http://vod.ebay.com/vod/FetchOrderDe...E:L:OC:US:5919 and am not sure what the guage of the wires are. Being a clutz with electricity, my question is; would it be a problem if the wire was a larger guage? The wires that came with the connector are long enough, and I could remove them and solder on the 22 stuff, but is it necessary for it to safely work properly?
Is your system still working well? I've enjoyed studying your writeup, and look forward to doing it myself. Thanks
Don
You called for a 22-4 wire. I've ordered this http://vod.ebay.com/vod/FetchOrderDe...E:L:OC:US:5919 and am not sure what the guage of the wires are. Being a clutz with electricity, my question is; would it be a problem if the wire was a larger guage? The wires that came with the connector are long enough, and I could remove them and solder on the 22 stuff, but is it necessary for it to safely work properly?
Is your system still working well? I've enjoyed studying your writeup, and look forward to doing it myself. Thanks
Don
I couldn't access the link you posted as eBay says I'm neither the buyer nor seller. However, a larger gauge wire should not be an issue, you just don't want to go any smaller.
My system works quite well, no issues to report...knock on wood!
Hope my write up helps and good luck with the install!
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
From: Fort Pierce
So with the installation of the new transfer case, I took the opportunity to try to create my fix for the plastic bushing in the t-case cable that I know will fail. Several good ideas were tossed out in this thread and I kind of took them to the next level.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...repair-177095/
To start, I took some caliper measurements of the stock cable end, with the bushing removed. One side was .480" but it tapered down to .430" on the other side. I then measured up the pin on the transfer case, it was about .305"
A new bushing seems to be the common fix, finding the right sizes seemed to be the challenge. I decided to just make my own. On the cable side, I decided that .480" was real close to .500". I can buy 1/2" drill rod anywhere, so off to Lowe's I went. They had 3' lengths of aluminum drill rod on the shelf, perfect!
I brought that home and drilled a hole down the center of it, just bigger than the t-case pin as I don't want too sloppy of a fit. I then measured the length of the pin on the t-case, from the selector flange to where it changes diameter where I could use a hitch pin or clip to hold it together snuggly. Once I had this, I fired up my chop saw and cut the hollowed drill rod to a length of .475"
Ok, now the fun part...assembly!! With my new case in and set to go with the exception on the cable, I grabbed my trusty Dewalt and threw a 1/2" drill bit in it. I then took the cable end and made it .500" the entire width through (was .430"-.480"). From there, I took the new bushing I made and pressed it into the cable with a set of vise grips. As you can see in the next 2 photos, I pressed the bushing in so it was flush to the side of the cable that meets up to the selector flange.
I then went ahead and put the cable (with new bushing) onto the t-case pin, flush side to the selector flange. I then took this little guy and a set of needle nose pliers and snapped it on to the end of the pin.
The fit to the pin of this clip is great, nice and tight. Also, the clip is almost line to line with the face of the bushing, so there is almost no axial movement.
It's a bit hard to see in this next photo but if you look closely, you can see the clip flush to the face of the bushing.
So, that's my fix! I rowed the t-case back and forth through all the gears multiple times and all functions as intended, nice and smoothly. I'm pretty confident in this bushing and will now be making another for the shifter side of the cable! I hope this helps someone else out!
- Costs:
* 1/2" Drill Rod - $7
* Clip - $2
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-w...repair-177095/
To start, I took some caliper measurements of the stock cable end, with the bushing removed. One side was .480" but it tapered down to .430" on the other side. I then measured up the pin on the transfer case, it was about .305"
A new bushing seems to be the common fix, finding the right sizes seemed to be the challenge. I decided to just make my own.
On the cable side, I decided that .480" was real close to .500". I can buy 1/2" drill rod anywhere, so off to Lowe's I went. They had 3' lengths of aluminum drill rod on the shelf, perfect! I brought that home and drilled a hole down the center of it, just bigger than the t-case pin as I don't want too sloppy of a fit. I then measured the length of the pin on the t-case, from the selector flange to where it changes diameter where I could use a hitch pin or clip to hold it together snuggly. Once I had this, I fired up my chop saw and cut the hollowed drill rod to a length of .475"
Ok, now the fun part...assembly!!
With my new case in and set to go with the exception on the cable, I grabbed my trusty Dewalt and threw a 1/2" drill bit in it. I then took the cable end and made it .500" the entire width through (was .430"-.480"). From there, I took the new bushing I made and pressed it into the cable with a set of vise grips. As you can see in the next 2 photos, I pressed the bushing in so it was flush to the side of the cable that meets up to the selector flange.I then went ahead and put the cable (with new bushing) onto the t-case pin, flush side to the selector flange. I then took this little guy and a set of needle nose pliers and snapped it on to the end of the pin.
The fit to the pin of this clip is great, nice and tight. Also, the clip is almost line to line with the face of the bushing, so there is almost no axial movement.
It's a bit hard to see in this next photo but if you look closely, you can see the clip flush to the face of the bushing.
So, that's my fix! I rowed the t-case back and forth through all the gears multiple times and all functions as intended, nice and smoothly. I'm pretty confident in this bushing and will now be making another for the shifter side of the cable! I hope this helps someone else out!
- Costs:
* 1/2" Drill Rod - $7
* Clip - $2
Last edited by ExpoJK; Apr 18, 2015 at 03:49 PM.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 422
Likes: 24
From: The D, MI
