KevinMac's Semi-Budget Build...Project Deathstar
Ok, the lift has been installed! 
The front probably took me another 3-4 hours to complete and once again, the hardest part of it was to reconnect the track bar once everything else was installed. After a bit of fighting
though, it finally went together. I still have to install the geometry correction brackets and hope to complete that tonight or tomorrow. Aside from that though, it's all buttoned up and drives well. I have about 75 miles on it thus far and will check bolt torques when I'm under there doing the correction brackets. Final height after settling, both front and rear, turned out to be 38.5" to the bottom of the fender. Overall, I'm quite happy with the way it all turned out. 
AFTER:

BEFORE:

The front probably took me another 3-4 hours to complete and once again, the hardest part of it was to reconnect the track bar once everything else was installed. After a bit of fighting
though, it finally went together. I still have to install the geometry correction brackets and hope to complete that tonight or tomorrow. Aside from that though, it's all buttoned up and drives well. I have about 75 miles on it thus far and will check bolt torques when I'm under there doing the correction brackets. Final height after settling, both front and rear, turned out to be 38.5" to the bottom of the fender. Overall, I'm quite happy with the way it all turned out. AFTER:

BEFORE:
@Redman...I sure do! The stockers look really small now. 
Ok, I was able to get the geometry correction brackets installed this week as hoped. They didn't take too long maybe an hour and a half or so. I didn't have to cut any of the control arm bolts as others have mentioned in their write ups. I was able to get at the upper control arm bolt without a problem. Unfortunately, the heat shields were casualties as they tore when I tried to shift them to fit around the brackets. Since the brackets moved the control arm bushing away from the exhaust I likely don't need them any longer anyway.
So here are a final few pictures...


Finally, as I mentioned, the AEV instructions are a bit vague in some cases. I used the following link as a supplement as it helped to clarify many things!
AEV Lift Installation Notes

Ok, I was able to get the geometry correction brackets installed this week as hoped. They didn't take too long maybe an hour and a half or so. I didn't have to cut any of the control arm bolts as others have mentioned in their write ups. I was able to get at the upper control arm bolt without a problem. Unfortunately, the heat shields were casualties as they tore when I tried to shift them to fit around the brackets. Since the brackets moved the control arm bushing away from the exhaust I likely don't need them any longer anyway.
So here are a final few pictures...


Finally, as I mentioned, the AEV instructions are a bit vague in some cases. I used the following link as a supplement as it helped to clarify many things!
AEV Lift Installation Notes
Last edited by KevinMac; Sep 28, 2013 at 01:23 PM.
I'd scored a set of used smoked tail lights off EBay a while ago as they were going for like $200 new and I didn't want to pay that much.
I just hadn't gotten around to ordering the LED bulbs and load resistors I'd need to install at the same time. Last week, I finally got around to it! 
The bulbs and resistors I got from SuperBrightLEDs.com as they were highly recommended in several threads I'd read. The specific LEDs are red and have the following part number:
3157-R45-T: 45HP-LED 16mm Wedge Base 3157 Tower bulb
The bulbs and tail lights themselves were the easy part to install. Note, check the function of the LED before reassembling everything, if one doesn't work, take it out and rotate it 180 degrees. The load resistors were a bit more difficult as you have to tap them into the correct wires. I'm lazy so I did a few web searches and found the following write up that specified which wires. On both the drivers and passenger side you will tap into the black. In addition, you will tap into the white w/ green stripe on the driver side and white w/ yellow stripe on the passenger.
LED Tail Light Write Up
Load resistor screwed to the sheet metal inside the body:

Final install:

All in all, I'm happy with them. I liked the smoked markers and running lights I'd installed prior but wasn't sure the red LED bulbs we be bright enough for people to safely see them lit up. I can tell you that in daylight they are VERY bright and should only be better at night.
Cost:
* Tail Lights -$80
* LEDs - $66
I just hadn't gotten around to ordering the LED bulbs and load resistors I'd need to install at the same time. Last week, I finally got around to it! 
The bulbs and resistors I got from SuperBrightLEDs.com as they were highly recommended in several threads I'd read. The specific LEDs are red and have the following part number:
3157-R45-T: 45HP-LED 16mm Wedge Base 3157 Tower bulb
The bulbs and tail lights themselves were the easy part to install. Note, check the function of the LED before reassembling everything, if one doesn't work, take it out and rotate it 180 degrees. The load resistors were a bit more difficult as you have to tap them into the correct wires. I'm lazy so I did a few web searches and found the following write up that specified which wires. On both the drivers and passenger side you will tap into the black. In addition, you will tap into the white w/ green stripe on the driver side and white w/ yellow stripe on the passenger.
LED Tail Light Write Up
Load resistor screwed to the sheet metal inside the body:

Final install:

All in all, I'm happy with them. I liked the smoked markers and running lights I'd installed prior but wasn't sure the red LED bulbs we be bright enough for people to safely see them lit up. I can tell you that in daylight they are VERY bright and should only be better at night.
Cost:
* Tail Lights -$80
* LEDs - $66
Last edited by KevinMac; Sep 30, 2013 at 04:06 AM.
Now that the lift is installed, my vertically challenged girlfriend was having a hell of a time getting in!
Being the nice guy that I am, I ordered a set of paracord grab handles. I shopped around a bit and decided on "Surprise Straps" who are based out of Arizona. They are a bit more than most but once I received the product, I was very happy to pay it. I ended up with the double handles for front seats and single for the rear seats. In the front they bolt to the outer sun visor mounting bolt (not screw). They then have very robust buckels that go around the roll bar padding. The rear seat handles simply mount to the soundbar mounting bolts.
All in, it took about 30 minutes to mount all 4. Happily, I can report the g/f can now get in the Jeep again.
I'm still slider/step shopping though because I know once I get the 35's that we will be right back where we started.
Since I live in the Detroit Metro area, I'm going to support the local guys as I did with AEV and go with the Ace sliders. Ace's shop is less than 10 miles from my house so I hope to find time to stop over there in the next couple of weeks and take a look at some shop/customer rigs. I just need to decide if I do the body mount step style or the weld on slider.
Does anyone have any feedback whether the weld on (my preference) can double as a step or is it soley a slider?


Since I'm here I'll post up a few other quick pics. I got and mounted a tear-away IFAK on the molle tailgate carrier. I also updated the steering wheel buttons as I plan to go ahead and retrofit a myGig stereo into the ride. I never suspected installing the buttons would be so involved. The airbag needed to come out, then the trim ring under it. Kind of a pain in the ass to install a $24 part




Costs:
* Grab Handles - $85
* Molle IFAK - $25
* EVIC Switch - $25
Being the nice guy that I am, I ordered a set of paracord grab handles. I shopped around a bit and decided on "Surprise Straps" who are based out of Arizona. They are a bit more than most but once I received the product, I was very happy to pay it. I ended up with the double handles for front seats and single for the rear seats. In the front they bolt to the outer sun visor mounting bolt (not screw). They then have very robust buckels that go around the roll bar padding. The rear seat handles simply mount to the soundbar mounting bolts.All in, it took about 30 minutes to mount all 4. Happily, I can report the g/f can now get in the Jeep again.
I'm still slider/step shopping though because I know once I get the 35's that we will be right back where we started.
Since I live in the Detroit Metro area, I'm going to support the local guys as I did with AEV and go with the Ace sliders. Ace's shop is less than 10 miles from my house so I hope to find time to stop over there in the next couple of weeks and take a look at some shop/customer rigs. I just need to decide if I do the body mount step style or the weld on slider. Does anyone have any feedback whether the weld on (my preference) can double as a step or is it soley a slider?



Since I'm here I'll post up a few other quick pics. I got and mounted a tear-away IFAK on the molle tailgate carrier. I also updated the steering wheel buttons as I plan to go ahead and retrofit a myGig stereo into the ride. I never suspected installing the buttons would be so involved. The airbag needed to come out, then the trim ring under it. Kind of a pain in the ass to install a $24 part



Costs:
* Grab Handles - $85
* Molle IFAK - $25
* EVIC Switch - $25
Last edited by KevinMac; Oct 7, 2013 at 05:19 AM.


