alancamby

EditPost # 12 has my updated design

I have been playing around with the Idea of making my own front swaybar disconnects.
Wanted to try a link called a Quick disconnect ball joint. Always thought they would be to noisy to use on a Jeep. While at the Jeep Blessing, I saw a TJ with BDS disconnect that use these links. Looked them up on the BDS site and found some for $130
Found another site that sells these links, Midwest control products, Item #QI500 for only $3.36 each(if you order 5).
Ordered 5 to play with and this is what I made.

the midwest control products joints. Just pull on the spring loaded sleave and the ball stud can be pulled out.




The disconnect bolt I made.




Installed on JK



They do work great, but if you leave them connected off-road they make a clanking/knocking noise. I think i will play around with some different ideas.
What do you guys think?

alancamby

By the way
-The threaded rod I used was 1/2-20 B7 hardened rod.
-The disconnect bolt I made is 18-8 SS (about the same strength of grade 5)
-All the yellow colored nuts are 1/2-20 grade 8.
-The clip is called a bow-tie clip and is more resistant to pull out than a regular hitch clip. The wire diameter of the clip is .120" and the drilled hole is 5/32"
- I called midwest control products, and they said that the ball stud is hardened steel and the break test was 5,389 lbs. The socket pullout was 1,500lbs.
They offer a SS version of this link, but they were a lot more money, yet also stronger.

Think that is about it.
Took about 2 hours to put together.

alancamby

They disconnect at both top and bottom

My plan was to use the extra ball sockets to hold the sway bar up, if that even makes since.

sixt7gt350

Best homebuilt I've seen yet for disconnects.

alancamby

Thanks man

Those disconnect bolts are real easy to make. That idea has been floating around in my mind for a long time
Thinking about making 2 more disco bolts ( this time adding a taper on the pin ends) and using Heims on both ends of the link. Those disconnect ball joints sure do come off easy though I just wonder if most of my noise is coming from the disco ball joint

joneszj

Totally awesome. Great idea, simple design, perfect execution. Not sure what the clinking could be, but they seem to serve the purpose well - my only concern would be keeping them lubed up. You keep making stuff like this and those bumpers of yours and I think some off road company might just pick you up.

Loved your Jeep and it was great to meet you. I would love to have that rear tire carrier you made on my JK...probably keep the XRC bumper cause I like the looks, but then add in the carrier portion. Just plain awesome.

Cpt. Flapjack

Looks like a good set-up. Post how they hold up over time.

MORTON

I would like to find a 2 Heim joints like those where can I get some and how much? nice job

alancamby

Google Heim joints or rod ends and you will get a bunch of results.
Two local stores for me are Earl's Indy, and Automotion racecars. I bought 4 (Aurora CW-8) heims from Automotion for $11 each. This price is a little high. Better pricing can be found online.
The size I bought are, 1/2-20 Right hand female thread. Mcmaster-Carr also sells them, try part #60645k36 at $7.63 found on page 1173 (Just google Mcmaster-Carr for the site)

alancamby

Here is my 2nd attemt at swaybar disconnects. The first set has to much play in the disconnect ball joints, and causes a clunking noise.
This time I used Heims on both the top and bottom of the link. The bottom Heim will be the only joint that disconnects, this is being done to remove even more slop in the design.
Also, modified the disconnect bolts with a taper to help line the joints up when connecting the Swaybar.
After lunch I will start making a bracket to hold the links up while disconnected.
Parts list:
Most of the parts are reused from my first disco's.
Added are:
-2 1/2-13x2.25" grade 8 bolts for top link
-this time I am using 4 Aurora CW-8 heims ( see above post)
-4 extra thick 18-8 SS washers for bottom disco bolts
-4 standard USS 18-8 SS washers for top bolts
-4 1/2-13 flange nuts for top bolts

here are all the parts for one link (minus the bow-tie clips)


Here is how I added a taper to the bottom disconnect bolts. Turn on the drill press and hold a angle grinder with a flap disk to the bolt.

after grinding


Links installed