mattgt5

Mine MSRP at $38590, I got it for $33611. Out the door at $34359. I got $23500 for my 2010 JKU sport. $3k off sticker out the door is not bad, but you may be able to get a little better. All that matters is if you are happy with the price

NH-JK

Maybe this will help someone...
I went to look at a rubi earlier this summer/fall when the 12s came out for shits and gigs.

I told the sales guy I was a tread lightly member ( im not) he played dumb. I told him to get someone who was not dumb...
Here is a mgr. The rubi was $36k and change. He showed me the tread lightly price and said I had to show him my affiliate #... oops I forgot it at home. They low balled my jku as a trade so I said no deal. I tried to take the paper write up w/ price and the sales guy ripped out of my hand... No joke. They asked me to think about it. I said ok and sat down and said ok let me see the numbers again, i pretended to add it up in my phones calculator .... I Took pics instead, no deal! Here are the pics..... EEFF U bonivile.

NH-JK

I'm going to use their numbers against them with out my trade. When the time is right for me to buy I'll go at them seriously with numbers and cash.

I agree with the above post, I sold cars at a ford dealer as a summer job in college. The dealers have to make a profit to stay in business. The light bill doesn't pay it self. No dealer will take a real loss to move inventory and it's not 2008, people are actually buying cars so dealers will hold out.

Imkunfused

I received "Excellent" KBB trade-in on my 2008. Didnt even have to dicker with them on that. I definitely did not get screwed on my trade-in and actually made out like a bandit.. So go ahead and pay full sticker when there are people who get full value for their trade, and 1k below invoice (which was almost 4k below sticker)..

JungleJP

I bought my 12 Rubi at 3% below invoice when I got it a few months ago in LA. I paid cash without a trade-in. MSRP $40,300 and I negotiated to less than $37k. I used the tread lightly discount too.

Lotus F1

All the dealers wanted to give me a of max $9700.00 for a beautiful low mialage SRT6. They wouldn't budge for crap.

So I just took my -$4300.00 off sticker truecar certificate and bought the jeep without the trade-in.

I then eBay'd my car a week later for $16,000.00.

I don't think they like me very much Lmao

littlecricket

my brother worked in the car business for years, he's one of those people that can sell you sand in the desert and still get you to take him out for drinks after in celebration of the good deal you just got....

as far as trading in a car he always says to say no to the trade in until you've agreed on a price for the vehicle. then "change your mind" or say "just out of curiousity" what will you give me for the trade in.

do your research first... find all the values on your vehicle, both private sale and trade-in. you'll always make more money selling outright but for some I completely understand that it isn't worth the hassle.

just fyi take it or leave it.

Bucko

*EDIT* All the numbers i am using are merely examples*

So on top of customer rebates, Jeep will offer the dealer rebates directly as money for them to leverage a deal without cutting into the $1,500 or so over cost.

So as an example, if the marketed rebate is $500 and Jeep pays the dealership $2000 (that you never see or hear about) and the dealership says; hey we are giving you $2,500 off of MSRP", they are still making the $1,500 profit from the 'MSRP to cost' value of the vehicle.

Also we think that there is only 'X' amount of money in a vehicle for profit (like the $1,500 example) but keep in mind every 'option' that is added to your vehicle that is not standard equipment has cost to retail value as well. Example being (numbers are not accurate but just example); lets say the Nav system is $1,500 add on. The cost of that feature may actually be $900, so the dealership is making $600 off the nav system.

So you may wonder how people get $4,000- $5,000 off a vehicle, thats because of all three things playing into the overall deal. if you have a loaded Rubi, there is a lot of markup from cost to play with in addition to the $1,500 markup from cost, vs. a bone stock wrangler would have as much (just the $1,500).


ALSO, dealerships get kickbacks from finance companies (even though i think it's technically illegal) to secure a higher rate than what the customer would qualify from the bank directly. I got screwed a little on my JK when we bought it. I secured a 3.4% rate on the deal but then went to the credit union and saw their current rates and they were like 3.2%. Originally before the dealership took "an extra $500" out of the deal i saw the screen and my rate was 3.6 or 3.8%... more stuff to tweak and play with.


Financing is super sketchy and i can only recommend getting pre-qualified by a credit union before even going to the dealership.

Lotus F1

Never negotiate a car with a trade-in in mind. I would never tell them that. If you do you will never know what you are paying for the car.

Here is my rules.. never mention trade-in before price, never mention financing, and never answer the question they all love to ask "what kind of payment you comfortable with". I simply want to know what I'm paying for the car first.

You are the one in the drivers seat not them. Control the sale. If they don't follow your rules...just walk.

Lotus F1

The goal isn't to "beat the dealer" out of making any money. I think most know they have to make some money and there is nothing wrong with that.

Dealers have 2 kinds of customers, some who overpay and some who underpay from average sales. It's just a matter of what your able to negotiate