NH-JK

The idle adjust on those sucks... Between the carb issues and vacuum line leaks it's a nightmare. Maybe call the old owner and ask him what he thinks it might be.... If he takes your call, he'll prob think your calling him to yell at him!

TURTLECON

Well it sat for almost 2 years(he got in an accident 3 weeks after buying it and paralyzed his right leg... can't drive anymore) so I don't think he'll be much help in assessing any issues. I'm going to try some carb cleaner and recheck all the vacuum lines again.

TURTLECON

So carb cleaner didn't help much. Still can't get the engine to idle. As soon as the ignition moves from START to ON position the engine dies. If I don't press the accelerator, it dies.
Tomorrow I'll check the fuel filter and possibly replace it.

I may just spend $300 and get a new Motorcraft 2100 carb... but I'd feel better if I knew the problem was definitely the carb. It seems like the issue is a fuel delivery problem, which could mean the lines, the pump, the filter, or the carb. Am I missing anything?

owtcast

2 years? If that's the case there could be a whole list of fuel issues. Number one would be bad gas. When it fires up, does the exhaust smell like a musty old wood shop? Nevermind, scratch that. If the fuel in the tank is two years old, it needs to be cleaned out and replaced with fresh fuel. If I were you, I'd drop the tank. Doing that will allow you to get the old fuel, 25 years of crud, and any rust that may be in there out along with a way to check the fuel pump itself. You'll be able to check how bad the rust is in the tank bottom too. It may need to be coated or replaced. Could you get MOST of the fuel out by syphoning and using additives, sure. But if you drop it you will eliminate a lot of guess work. And since it's new to you now, EVERYTHING is guess work. I've said this countless times.... "The best way to get to know your Heep is to work on it" .

owtcast

Before you drop money on a new carb, you might want to consider this. I know it's more expensive but it will catapult you way past all that vacuum nightmare and any other fuel systom issues you might have. h ttp://howellefi.com/jeep-tbi-products.html

TURTLECON

Wow thanks for the great advice bud! Gotta love this forum with all the knowledge it's members have to offer

Since the YJ ran decent enough (i test-drove it only 7 days ago), I think the problems are probably more "minor" than anything seriously major, but bad gas could definitely be a possibility... good catch! Before I drop the tank, I'll try disconnecting the line and pump the fuel out as best I can, then replace with new fuel and see how that works. If that doesn't solve it, then I'll drop the tank. And yes, the exhaust stinks... but I discovered the previous owner removed the CAT, so that's one more thing I have to install, especially to pass CA emissions.

Thanks for the Howell conversion link. I'll definitely look into it. I'm more inclined right now to spend $300 on a new carb, then $1300 on a conversion... But in the meantime I'm having a blast working on this YJ!!

owtcast

Look what I found in case you have to replace it. These thing are much more expensive from mopar. ht tp://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003TSYIGC

Never have to worry about a rust tank again. If you end up with a poly tank, you can do this to it too. ht tp://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/fuel/15to20gal/

TURTLECON

Well I got the sumbitch running! Finally!

Turns out the ignition wires had a bad connection. Really bad. Replaced connectors and now things are running smooth. Idle was a little high and adjusted it down to 900-1200 rpm. Replaced a bad fuel line as well. Next ill have to tackle some more electrical since only half the dash panel works and the wiper arm doesn't work either.