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Door is really tough to close with new door weather strip

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Old Oct 17, 2023 | 01:01 PM
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Default Door is really tough to close with new door weather strip

My 2017 Jeep Wrangler JKU passenger door started leaking recently. I tried some adhesive weather stripping but looks like the tubular part of the OEM part is compressed .. probably cuz that door is seldom used.

I figured I'd get the latest and greatest replacement (55395274AW) from the dealer. Full price but figured I could easily swap it out.
Jeep Wrangler Door Weather Strip - Mopar (55395274AW)

The installation was pretty easy. I used a popsicle stick to make sure the rubber flanges(?) are secure in the channel on all sides.

Unfortunately, the door is now really difficult to close, especially from the inside. Also, the door is no longer flush with the body when closed.. it sticks out a 1/16-1/8".

I'm debating about re-installing the original weather strip and try to patch the leak .. at least the door would close properly.

Question: could this be that the new part is a bit stiff and if I leave it on, closing the door will get easier .. once the part is squished into place for a bit?

Or should I return the new part and just patch the leaks with the original part.

I feel like I traded a small leak for a poorly closing door. I haven't had the courage to do a water test: garden hose (low pressure) or car wash (high pressure)... rain is coming to the PNW soon.

Last edited by lar-mo; Oct 17, 2023 at 01:58 PM. Reason: fix typo
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Old Oct 17, 2023 | 01:39 PM
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IMO; Keep the new W/strip, the dealer will not take back the one you installed so put it to use.. Get a tube of Sil-Glide silicone lube for the W/strip apply lightly..keep the door closed for several days - I'd do the water test .. garden hose low pressure; that is the proper water test method..
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Old Oct 17, 2023 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay2013jk
IMO; Keep the new W/strip, the dealer will not take back the one you installed so put it to use.. Get a tube of Sil-Glide silicone lube for the W/strip apply lightly..keep the door closed for several days - I'd do the water test .. garden hose low pressure; that is the proper water test method..
Thanks for the feedback. I'll leave it on for awhile and see what happens, <sigh>. Looks like they added some dense foam inside the tubular parts where it meets the door (1: by top inside corner of window and 2: near the upper hinge) in the *AW version.

What is the Sil-Glyde for? Presumably to protect the rubber in the long term and not to help with the tight fitment.

Water test with the hose was successful. No water inside ~ that's a "win"!

Last edited by lar-mo; Oct 17, 2023 at 04:07 PM.
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Old Nov 5, 2023 | 07:53 AM
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I'm assuming you pulled off all non- stock weather stripping before installing the new gasket. The part that confuses me is you say the door is sticking out as much as 1/8" at the B pillar, but I don't see how that can happen without moving the door latch out. If it was adjusted flush before, how would the door latch if it sticks out that much? 8 would try to see when the door starts binding. If it's only just before closing, it may be on the door latch side. Maybe they put that foam in the gasket in more spots? Let us know what happens. I'm fighting a leak myself.
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Old Nov 5, 2023 | 07:55 AM
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Double post. Tried delete.

Last edited by Rexracer; Nov 5, 2023 at 07:57 AM. Reason: Double posted
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Old Nov 5, 2023 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Rexracer
I'm assuming you pulled off all non- stock weather stripping before installing the new gasket. The part that confuses me is you say the door is sticking out as much as 1/8" at the B pillar, but I don't see how that can happen without moving the door latch out. If it was adjusted flush before, how would the door latch if it sticks out that much? 8 would try to see when the door starts binding. If it's only just before closing, it may be on the door latch side. Maybe they put that foam in the gasket in more spots? Let us know what happens. I'm fighting a leak myself.
Even with the new weather strip, the door is still leaking. Apparently, my low pressure hose test result was premature. I took it to the dealer and they did a water test (for $125). They said, for $1000, they could add some foam inside the tubular parts and add some sealer somewhere but that they would not guarantee my Jeep to be leak-free. The service rep said to just mop up once a week and that there were holes in the floor boards that act as drains and that the carpet was antimicrobial. Sigh. :/ Water seems to be intruding where the top gutters end and it just travels down until the lowest spot and seep onto the floor mat/carpet.

Currently, I used gaffer tape to ensure water goes onto my rubber mat and not on the carpet underneath. I have some adhesive foam tape (camper tape?) that I'm going to try (after the Pineapple Express in the PNW passes through!).

The issue with poor fitment is happening on the top outside edge of the door, i.e. above the door handle, furthest from the hinges. My best guess is that since the new weather strip has a dense spacer inside the rubber tube. On the original one, it's pretty compressed. Again: the leak is not happening from there.

Oh... and the Jeep Dealer service person never addressed the poor fitment of the new weather strip. They just said I'd installed it correctly. I'm hoping with time, the rubber part that causing the door to stick out 1/8" will compress a bit.
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Old Nov 5, 2023 | 03:40 PM
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I already ordered a kit from jeepleakfix, so if the new gaskets don't do it, I'll add that. With the gasket to gasket seal, it may be the best bet.
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Old Jun 2, 2024 | 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Rexracer
I already ordered a kit from jeepleakfix, so if the new gaskets don't do it, I'll add that. With the gasket to gasket seal, it may be the best bet.
now did you like the result of that kit
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