Phishjeep

That's from the filter-its right above the front axle.

I got Mobil1 from Walmart for $22/5qt.

im4degreesaboveu

i went with k&n in my old scion tC seemed to work the best i took it in once and they said the oil was still good so that was cool.

after all i have read about dealerships i am kinda worried about taking mine in for my 1 free oil change... is it that bad there??? i dont want someone screwing my sh!t up under there i know that much.

has any one else had problems finding the oil we use? i try to avoid wal-mart like the plague. the one here is really ghetto and trashy. there are quite a few auto places in my vicinity though so i feel like it shouldn't be that hard to find.

what is the difference between semi and full synthetic? is it not real oil? fossil fuels? better for the environment/economy?

Jake_Blues

Yea, I keep it in a semi-heated garage though, so it rarely if ever sees cold starting temps below freezing. Besides, the difference between 5w and 10w is not much. If I was up in the great white north with -10 degree temps or something, I'd worry

I am running Mobil 1 5w30 "Truck and SUV formula", with a K&N filter. The oil was on hand from my old Exploder. Next time around I'll probably go back to 5w20, but still use Mobil 1.

It's whipped up in a lab. Mostly they are just created from various chemicals, combined to create "custom" liquid hydrocarbons with better lubricating properties than refined oils. It's not "real oil" in the sense that it's not pulled from the ground, but both are liquid hydrocarbons. It's not any better for the environment really, since it's pretty much the same stuff more or less. The advantage is better lubrication and longer oil life.

-E

im4degreesaboveu

cool thanks for the info

Piginajeep

My wife changes the oil for free, I just have to buy the oil and filter.,.. You cant beat that!

duneslider

Changing the oil is a pretty simple step on this jeep. Basically, you need something to catch the oil. I have a nice tuperware thing I found when the wife wasn't looking. It is big so it makes it easy to postion in a way I don't get oil everywhere. Then, you crawl under the jeep use a 1/2" socket and pull the drain plug. I usually let the oil drain until it stops dripping. This last time it seemed to take about 35 minutes. Then I put the plug back in and move the catch pan to where the filter is. Then reach down in and twist the filter off. Once you break the seal it will spill oil out into the catch pan you positioned (it will probably drip on your front axel too. Now, put a little oil on the rubber seal on the new filter and screw it on. The Mopar filters say 3/4 turn once the seal makes contact. IF you put it on too tight you will have a hard time taking it off the next time.
Now you can put oil back in. Mine took six quarts to fill it.
Don't forget to wipe the oil off the front axel.

If I missed something in there some one can correct me.

Man, I need to find a wally world with that mobile 1 for 22 a 5quart. I paid 40 for 12 quarts or regular. The same in mobile 1 would have been 66.

Bryan

HappyCurmudgeon

Oh man!

your spoiled


If i wasn't already attached i would ask if she had a sister *L*

im4degreesaboveu

i thank you for the info sir. this is the post i was looking for.

CJ2a

Amsoil would be my choice. Been using their lubes for years. My 1996 Dodge Ram V10 has only had 12 oil changes in its life. I changed the gear lube for the second time last year as it had been in there over 100,000 miles. The gears still had the original machine marks on the teeth. I have not had to do any engine work, so I have no idea what condition its in, but if my old Jeeps were any indication, it too looks like new.

If i was buying oil for my JK, here is what I'd get:

Amsoil Series 2000 0w-30
Amsoil Syncromesh Manual Transmission Fluid
Amsoil Universal ATF
Amsoil Severe Gear 75w-90 Gear lube
Amsoil Series 2000 Grease

CAPACITIES
Engine, with filter..........6.0 quarts
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........13.0 quarts
Automatic Transmission, Initial Fill..........4.0 quarts[1]
Manual Transmission, nsg370..........3.2 pints
Differential, with 186 FBI Front..........2.1 pints
Differential, with 216 FBI Front..........2.7 pints
Differential, with 198 RBI Rear..........3.9 pints
Differential, with 226 RBI Rear..........4.7 pints
Transfer Case,NV241..........4.2 pints

TORQUES
Oil Drain Plug.....20 ft-lbs
Transfer case
Fill Plug.....15-25 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....15-25 ft-lbs
Manual Transmission
Fill Plug.....22 ft-lbs
Drain Plug.....22 ft-lbs

I also intend to install one of these:



Specificly the one on the right with the preoiler. With Amsoil, you can easily go a year or up to 35,000 miles between changes as the oil doesn't wear out. The problem is the filters. The setups pictured run a regular filter (although MUCH larger than stock) as well as a 'bypass' filter that allows a slower filtration of some of the oil each pass to really scrub out the tiny particles that either don't get filtered in regular filters, or cause the regular filter to clog.

The chrome tube on top of the setup on the right is a pre-oiler that uses oil pressure to charge when the engine is running and then releases its charge when you turn the key to the 'on' position. You pause a few seconds in the 'on' while a buzzer sounds and then turn to start. During that time, the oil in the pre-oiler is forced into the engine under pressure to be sure an oil film exists on all the major bearings just before you start the vehicle.

The result? Very long engine life and minimal wear.

Cruiser

I guess I'm spoiled by my dealer. I normally change my own as I worked as an auto tech for 15 years, now a tech for a large John Deere dealer. The dealer I bought the jk at has a killer deal on oil changes, $26 for a LOF with the correct factory oil/filter and every other one is free, lifetime of the vehicle. Thats like $13 per change. I'll let them do it,, and I get to drink free coffee too!
Now If I could get my wife to change the oil in my bike???
Steve C