The Importance of changing out stock track bar and lower control arm bolts
09-23-2012, 06:02 AM
#471
JK Super Freak
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Elizabethtown, PA
Posts: 1,206
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by lowendrider
I installed the bolt kit from Northridge today and thought I'd give a rundown for those thinking of doing the same.
1. Plan on it taking a half day or more. Some say its simply a matter of sliding a bolt out and sliding the new one in, which is what you're doing but trust me..not as simple as it sounds.
2. Have a full compliment of sockets and wrenches,ratchets,breaker bar, prybars, deadblow hammer, torque wrench, etc. I used 21mm 22mm and 13/16.
3. If, after taking the nut off the bolt, you can't easily remove the bolt by hand..you will have trouble getting the hole lined up for the new bolt. Loosening the opposite end of the control arms helps along with a pry bar.
4. Plan on being sore the next day. 125ft/lbs is freakin tight. Trying to hold on side with one hand and torqueing with the other is difficult to say the least. Eat your wheaties. I do have a trick to share that worked well on the control arms. I used a socket and breaker bar with a cheater pipe over the handle and let it hit the ground to hold one side while I torqued. ( see pic) After torque is acheived, you can slide the pipe up so you can remove the breaker bar without loosening the bolt you've just torqued.
Hope this helps those interested in doing this..
1. Plan on it taking a half day or more. Some say its simply a matter of sliding a bolt out and sliding the new one in, which is what you're doing but trust me..not as simple as it sounds.
2. Have a full compliment of sockets and wrenches,ratchets,breaker bar, prybars, deadblow hammer, torque wrench, etc. I used 21mm 22mm and 13/16.
3. If, after taking the nut off the bolt, you can't easily remove the bolt by hand..you will have trouble getting the hole lined up for the new bolt. Loosening the opposite end of the control arms helps along with a pry bar.
4. Plan on being sore the next day. 125ft/lbs is freakin tight. Trying to hold on side with one hand and torqueing with the other is difficult to say the least. Eat your wheaties. I do have a trick to share that worked well on the control arms. I used a socket and breaker bar with a cheater pipe over the handle and let it hit the ground to hold one side while I torqued. ( see pic) After torque is acheived, you can slide the pipe up so you can remove the breaker bar without loosening the bolt you've just torqued.
Hope this helps those interested in doing this..
09-23-2012, 06:49 AM
#472
JK Super Freak
09-23-2012, 07:02 AM
#473
JK Super Freak
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Elizabethtown, PA
Posts: 1,206
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by lowendrider
Actually I did..while it was on four ramps. What would be the problem with this?
09-23-2012, 07:07 AM
#474
JK Freak
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Allen, TX
Posts: 972
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Xman4602
Oh, I guess it would be alright on all four........ I have done this upgrade as well and read quite a few times to ensure that the jeep was sitting flat when torquing, as to not put any undue stress on the bushings.
09-23-2012, 07:14 AM
#475
JK Super Freak
I've done enough reading on here to know that I had to have weight on them while torqueing..thanks to my fellow jeepers for that. I wonder though, what symtoms would you have if the bushings were in a "bind"? I'm assuming you'd only have problems if it were up in the air with all the weight off??
09-23-2012, 07:43 AM
#476
2012 JK Unlimited w/ 9500 miles. Installed AEV 2.5" lift with geo correction brackets and 35" tires on 17x9 w/ -10mm offset about 2000 miles ago. Have wheeled it once so far on easy stuff.
Can't believe it but I already have DW at around 40-45 mph when hitting a bump just right. Had the lift checker and tightened, wheels rebalanced and still there.
Then had ball joints and tie rods checked. Couldn't believe that lower ball on pass side is already sloppy and both ends of drag link are bad. Took it to dealer to have them confirm and got the typical response that everything was within spec.
Time to beef up steering parts...
Can't believe it but I already have DW at around 40-45 mph when hitting a bump just right. Had the lift checker and tightened, wheels rebalanced and still there.
Then had ball joints and tie rods checked. Couldn't believe that lower ball on pass side is already sloppy and both ends of drag link are bad. Took it to dealer to have them confirm and got the typical response that everything was within spec.
Time to beef up steering parts...
09-23-2012, 07:58 AM
#477
JK Freak
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Allen, TX
Posts: 972
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by lowendrider
I've done enough reading on here to know that I had to have weight on them while torqueing..thanks to my fellow jeepers for that. I wonder though, what symtoms would you have if the bushings were in a "bind"? I'm assuming you'd only have problems if it were up in the air with all the weight off??
09-27-2012, 05:52 PM
#478
JK Enthusiast
THe guy in brown shorts dropped off my kit fro Northridge today. Plan on doing th change this weekend. 
Want to thank all the guys that posted the hints. I think
this will be a walk in the park. I have changed out the stock X shocks spring with Rubicon shocks and springs and that was not very hard.
Want to thank all the guys that posted the hints. I think this will be a walk in the park. I have changed out the stock X shocks spring with Rubicon shocks and springs and that was not very hard.
11-12-2012, 05:25 AM
#479
JK Freak
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Miami, Fl
Posts: 722
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I posted this info in another threat.
Here is the link to NorthRidge4x4 kit. They also have a Video -
NR4X4 Jeep JK Grade 8 Hardware kit
Here is the link to NorthRidge4x4 kit. They also have a Video -
NR4X4 Jeep JK Grade 8 Hardware kit
11-12-2012, 11:22 AM
#480
JK Junkie
I about to upgrade to the 3.5 rock krawler lift. From what I understand, you have to drill out the bushing sleeve for the control arms. I don't want to do that. Would I be ok with just using the factory hardware with the lift?