One other question you might want to find out is if they are actually getting your annual mileage correct and if the term is best case. Sometimes a payment at 39 months can be just as low if not slightly lower than that of a 48 month term....not always the case, but often times with a manufacturer program it is.

I work for Autoflex Leasing, one of the largest private leasing companies nationwide. You are right in saying that there are a lot of factors, but one that you might be overlooking is simply not knowing all of your options. Unfortunately when it comes to leasing any Chrysler, Jeep or Dodge, their program is hard for the dealer to manage and it isn't always your best possibility. Your money factor as well as your residual is going to also fluctuate and will be set once you are ready to sign paperwork.... That means that a payment that you are quoted early in the year, may jump significantly as the year rolls on, which may be the case in point here.

If you want, PM me and I can run some figures for you. What's better than having a fellow Jeeper at your disposal to keep from getting a raw deal from a stealership.

 

Also something to consider is what you are trading and its worth. If your trade in value is $20,000 and your new Jeep is selling at $34,000 you are only paying taxes on the difference. This is possibly some of the reason behind the payment jump. Tax credits can play a large role in your payment and the dealerships profit

 

Shop around and ask for 1 to 2% below invoice. That should be the going rate. Our 2 door 2012 Rubicon, that was a special order too, was just over $36 500 sticker and we payed just over $34 000 out the door and got 2,9% interest through the dealer.

Don't be shy to get an internet quote from all the dealers in a 100 mile radius from you. That was what we did and how we got the best deal.

 

That's a good point. Should probably do that. Let them beat each other up trying to get my sale as opposed to shopping at a dealer myself one by one.

 

Not sure about the OP in Michigan, but a lot of states don't let you finance your taxes like TX does. Here in AR you pay taxes and tag fees separately directly to the state, so you can't roll them in to financing.

As others have said, don't lease, especially if you are going to keep the vehicle afterwards. Re-sell is too high on these, even if you are going to get rid of it in a couple years.

Ally is the new re-branding of GMAC after the bailouts. You might be able to a better rate elsewhere. The best rates I found for longer term auto loans where at credit unions, so check there too. They won't show up on most internet searches or sites like bankrate.

In my opinion, the finance departments at dealerships are worse than the service departments in trying to screw you. That's where they make a ton of money, so be careful. In a car sale, the salesman will usually ask early on a question like 'So how much a month are you looking to spend'. From then on, they will play with the numbers and interest rate to to get the most money out of you, but keep your payment at about that number so you think you're getting what you want.

As for me, I paid less than 1% below invoice on my '12 JKUR (I have supplier pricing, so it starts at 1% below and we went from there). Comparing the payment amount to others isn't going to tell you much since a lot of other factors go in to it, just make sure your selling price in at or below invoice. I think edmunds.com has dealer invoice pricing. I actually did ende up financing through the dealer (which used Ally) because they had 0% for 3 years. Can't beat free money.

 

Do yourself a favor, provided you have an iPhone, and download iLeaseCarPro. It's a nice utility that'll let you quickly enter calculations, even at the dealer's desk.

As others have said, that's not a good deal. I paid $420/mo. for 72 months on a $40k Rubicon ($12k equity trade), and this was a hurried deal; I could have done better.

My wife's Benz is leased for 36 mo/10k year for $428/mo. We put ZERO down (never put money down on a lease). This car had a $46k MSRP.

Lease if you desire a new vehicle every 2-3 years. Take your potential cash-down and invest on something with a return.

If you want to buy the Jeep, then do just that!

 

Jeeps aren't meant to lease your better off buying it you will less they hold good money. I bought a 12 rubi sticker was 42 for
37000 and put 9500 down and got 36 month finance 0 percent finance for 860 a month

 

Wranglers r a bad lease. They run higher lease options on them. Take a GC and a wrangler same price, lease on the wrangler will be 200 more. This is why I purchased my wrangler. If u want a lower payment u can do a balloon payment purchase. Not the smartest option but it's similar to a lease.

 

as everyone said, leasing if you plan to buy it at the end is just plain crazy. don't do it, ever....unless you can agree on the residual upfront but i doubt any company would do that....and at that point you are basically doing a balloon loan.

IMO the only time leasing ever makes sense is if you are using it as a tax benefit for business...definitely not when interest rates are pretty much free.

 

Okay, leasing is bad. But I fear a super high payment on a 38k Rubi. But I will look into financing and keep you guys posted as to what I'm hearing.

Thanks everyone for the help and info. Glad you're all here to help.