New engine worth buying?
09-13-2011, 01:12 PM
#11
I also have sport car with 400hp / 400 lbs/ft from the factory but this morning I traded my 2010 for a 2012 both manuals for less than $4k (including connectivity group satelite and 3.73 on the 2012) and I removed almost all the mods was a good decision for me. I was happy with the 2010 but am much happier with the 2012.
The interior is quieter, no rattles (yet), the A/C finally cools, the steering feels more solid (harder to turn, don't know if it has to do with being electric and it could be speed sensitive). I am also really carefull with my vehicles but the interior of the 2010 scratched like crazy, it really bummed me out.
I have to call BS on the off the line comment, the 2012 feels much faster and I can safely accelerate from 45 to 85 on the highway and don't downshift, all without going over 3k rpms. That was impossible on the 2010.
The interior is quieter, no rattles (yet), the A/C finally cools, the steering feels more solid (harder to turn, don't know if it has to do with being electric and it could be speed sensitive). I am also really carefull with my vehicles but the interior of the 2010 scratched like crazy, it really bummed me out.
I have to call BS on the off the line comment, the 2012 feels much faster and I can safely accelerate from 45 to 85 on the highway and don't downshift, all without going over 3k rpms. That was impossible on the 2010.
09-13-2011, 01:29 PM
#14
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09-13-2011, 02:58 PM
#15
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Owned them both, identically configured 2011/2012 Rubicons with the only difference being the engine and transmission and the 2012 is hands down the better vehicle. When the five speed downshifts on tall hills (cruise on 75 mph) you never even feel the gear change just notice the rpm's notch up to 3 grand for a moment. That's smooth.
As Carol Shelby said of horsepower "some is good, more is better, and too much is just right".
As Carol Shelby said of horsepower "some is good, more is better, and too much is just right".
09-13-2011, 03:00 PM
#16
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What an <ommited> comment to make. The OP asked how it runs, and asked if getting a 2012 was worth it for the engine alone. You have no clue what he's modded (if anything). All you know is that he has a 2011, and is curious about the new engine. You don't even know what he use's the JK for. Some people, it's nothing more than a 4dr convertible DD. For these people, better drivability on the highways is what they're looking for. While this video demonstrated the difference in the engine with how it accelerates (which is probably the easiest way to show the difference), the engine means more than just being able to pull away from a light faster.
Besides, who are you to be a complete <omittee> towards them? It's not like he's asking about putting chrome on it. 40% smarter? Judging by your idiotic comment above, that certainly wouldn't hurt you.
For the OP,
If I had a 2011, I would in a heart beat. But that's me... go test drive one, and see what you think... if you like the 2012 better, and it fits your budget... then go for it. Don't forget to take into account any aftermarket stuff you have. But at the end of the day, you're the one driving it.
Besides, who are you to be a complete <omittee> towards them? It's not like he's asking about putting chrome on it. 40% smarter? Judging by your idiotic comment above, that certainly wouldn't hurt you.
For the OP,
If I had a 2011, I would in a heart beat. But that's me... go test drive one, and see what you think... if you like the 2012 better, and it fits your budget... then go for it. Don't forget to take into account any aftermarket stuff you have. But at the end of the day, you're the one driving it.
Finding the truth requires more than just "doing the math" with vulnerable advertising fiction. There are good reasons to buy either a 2011 with discounts, or a 2012. As you recommend, I suggest driving both, and buying what you want.
09-13-2011, 03:39 PM
#17
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If you've got the extra coin and want that HP, buy it. The 2012 rocks. However, you're going to save roughly $3,000-$4,000 on an '11 (possibly more if you can haggle the dealer down further). $4,000 will easily cover gears, a programmer, a decent 3" lift, and some 35" tires. 4.88's on the 3.8L with the auto programmed correctly makes a world of difference and will make that engine shine.
I paid for my damn-near-fully-loaded '11 Unlimited Rubicon what a '12 2-door goes for.
"Do the math" on that.
I paid for my damn-near-fully-loaded '11 Unlimited Rubicon what a '12 2-door goes for.
"Do the math" on that.
Last edited by Spank; 09-13-2011 at 03:46 PM.
09-13-2011, 04:59 PM
#19
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Ok, let's see, assume gas at $3.50/gallon (just playing with a number).
2011 with 4.88's and 35" tires maybe 13 mpg.
2012 with 35" tires more like 18 mpg.
That works out to be for the 2011 around 26.9 cents a mile for fuel, and for the 2012 about 19.4 cents per mile.
So then it costs 38.6% more in gas expenses for every mile driven in the mod'd 2011 to try and equal the stock 2012.
Just playing with numbers...
2011 with 4.88's and 35" tires maybe 13 mpg.
2012 with 35" tires more like 18 mpg.
That works out to be for the 2011 around 26.9 cents a mile for fuel, and for the 2012 about 19.4 cents per mile.
So then it costs 38.6% more in gas expenses for every mile driven in the mod'd 2011 to try and equal the stock 2012.
Just playing with numbers...
09-13-2011, 05:00 PM
#20
Yes, the Pentastar is a far superior engine than the old 3.8L. But what made my decision to buy a 2011 was that the dealer was deeply discounting the 2011's on the lot. I paid about $3000 less than what I would have paid for a 2012, even with the "Tread Lightly" discount. Add the $1,000 cash back rebate, I ended up saving $4,000 over a 2012. That $4k will pay for my tires, wheels, lift and regearing. I didn't have to put any money down on the 2011, and so it freed up money for mods. The dealer wanted a $1,000 deposit to order a 2012 and the payment would have been 80-90 higher a month. I bought a 2-door which is slightly lighter than the Unlimited, so I am happy with my purchase. I test drove a 2012 with an auto (3.21 gears) and a 6-speed with 3.21 gears. Definately opt for the 3.73's even if you go with the 2012.
Last edited by armycop; 09-13-2011 at 05:03 PM.