Mark Doiron

The Rubi is made for rock crawling. Any other Jeep model will readily do what you're describing. Might you get into a place where you wish you had lockers? Could. Might you end up with a broken front Dana 30 where a Rubi Dana 44 might have survived? Possibly.

I have a 2007 X (Sport by any other name) with 212,000 miles all over North American--U.S./Mexican border to the Arctic Ocean. Doing the type of travel you describe. I do have lockers I've added to it, along with a host of other mods. I can count on two hands the number of times I've engaged the lockers. The only axle that I had fail was that "strong" D44. My D30 is doing just fine (yes, it's built up some). Do I wish I had the different transfer case? Absolutely not. Rock crawling speeds are unsuitable for the type of travel I do--overlanding. I have friends who drive Rubi's but they are fortunate they have auto transmissions because they'd surely tire of shifting mighty danged quickly if they did it while overlanding.

There are some other details about the Rubi's that are better built than other models. For what you describe, they are unlikely to be needed. In fact, the worst damage that you'll do to your Jeep will be not because of the model you have, but because of how you describe you'll use it: Mudding will tear up any vehicle. That grit gets into places and then grinds parts down, causing premature failure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nl2D1KbMZpg

Mark Doiron

BTW, I probably should clarify that I'm not knocking those who purchase Rubi's for whatever. Hey, if someone can afford it, even if it's overkill for their needs, go for it if that's what they want. My next Jeep may be a Rubi, after all. I just take issue with the implication that anything less is "less of a Jeep". Rubi's are, as I initially stated, built for rock crawling. Most Jeep owners don't rock crawl.

resharp001

I don't disagree with Mark......and he indeed uses his jeep. Love the videos and he always has good comments. I come from this perspective though.....I bought a sport and built it up. At the end of the day, I'm not sure I'm any better or worse off now than had I bought a rubi and built similarly to the same endpoint, cept I didn't get a few of the creature comforts that came stock. I looked at your question like this.....buying a special edition vs. Rubi....more so than Sport vs. Rubi. Both the special edition and the rubi are going to cost more than a Sport. That cost is either 1) for superficial accents, sitckers...stitching and what not, or 2) for actual functional features.

A couple things that I wish were different with my Sport. I don't have the computer package that allows me to monitor various temps and speed from the cluster. I believe the special editions share this with the rubi. In order to monitor all those variables I have to use an aftermarket product. The other thing is the sway bar disconnect. It doesn't bother me at all to get out and pull my quick disconnects off when wheelin'. That said, sometimes you might have a spontaneous moment where it would be nice to disconnect for a minute or two. In those situations, getting out of the rig is a hassle. Those situations are few and far between, but I have run across them. Maybe it's just for a quick flexy pic somewhere. I know the rubi sway bar isn't the end all be all, but it is a nice feature. I can't swallow the pill of ponying up for a Currie anti-rock or the Teraflex model.....so manual disconnect it is for me.

Anyhow, just a few extra thoughts. Regardless of what you buy you'll end up loving it.

bbolander

I bought a Rubicon with 4:10's and an automatic simply because I want the capability, and safety, in case it's needed. I don't do "rock-crawling", but I do ranch roads and off road trails with the main intent of scenic, out of the way rides. But, even on those I can run into a hill on the edge of a mountain with some small ledges or deep holes and i can just drive right up with the lockers and automatic sway bar disconnect. If I were open and didn't have the automatic sway bar disconnect I could end up spinning tires and slipping near the edge or not being able to get up, which can be a pucker factor or even an unsafe situation.

I like the comfort of knowing I have the right stuff, just in case.

OneCoolJoe70

Great points everyone. Rubicon it is! I was a Boy Scout and always lived by their motto, Be Prepared. I agree it's best to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
Now to find a Rubicon with auto and 4.10s. If I can find one with leather, Alpine speakers and navigation I won't have to add them later.
Sucks most dealers in DFW don't order them with 4.10s and have of them don't even know why I would want them.

resharp001

I think you'll be happy. Will be well prepared out of the box for anything thrown at you. Finding one with the 4.10 option is probably worth it. That would be great with 33s, and still acceptable with 35s if you ever went that big down the road.

I had a buddy buy a rubi a couple years ago. He had a harder time than he thought finding one in the mid-cities/Grapevine/Lewisville/Denton area with 4.10s. There will definitely be less selection.

OneCoolJoe70

I've seen a few out there, but I really want a Rubicon Recon and you would think they would have 4.10s but most of them don't.
I'm still about a month away from being financially ready to ditch my aluminum Ford.

MarwanJeeper

i do have sahara17 with eton lock and jks sway bar, its way better than stock rubicon locker and sway bar.
previous jk was Rubi14.

jedg

So mildly hijacking this thread. I've often heard the Rubi TC is for rock krawling and too deeply geared for other situations. So why not use 2nd gear in the transmission to get similar gearing to the 2.72 TC?

For example, all others being equal (so assume 32" tires and a 4.10 rear)

241J (normal TC) is 2.72. 1st gear manual is 2.84. This gives an over 31.67 crawl ratio

241OR (Rubi TC) is 4.1. 1st gear (2.84) gives an over all 47.64

241OR with the trans in 2nd gear (1.57) gives an overall 26.39 which may be close enough to the 31.67


Perhaps that's more difficult to take off from a stop in 2nd? (not sure)

I do this all the time in my automatic... tap-to-shift with it locked into either 1st or 2nd depending on what I need.

zstairlessone

My 6-speeds (both of them Rubicons) have a first gear of 4.46 not 2.84, second is 2.61 and third is 1.72.

Also, with the Rubicon, it is easy to modify to be able to activate both lockers in 4- hi or the rears only in 2wd