Stupid Question, do I need a new driveshaft???
Hey guys (n gals), I'm new to this Jeepin thing & want to do this right.
I've got the Terraflex 2.5. The rear was a bit saggy so I slipped in a 1" disc. Now she sits pretty level & I'm happy with the overall height of my Jeep.
I have searched on here quite a bit. Seems like half say I need a new rear drive shaft & half say I don't. The angle looks pretty steep to me.
Also some talk about rotating the entire axle so my pinion ligns up better. Could I just cut my upper controll arms & weld in the proper length piece. (I'm assuming it would be better to lengthen the upper so that it moves the rear tire away from the pinch seam
)
Perhaps this rotation will not effect the overall center of the wheel
Thinking that rotating the axle is going to jack up my spring & bumpstop alignments?
Which is the best aftermarket adjustable upper control arm & drive shaft?
Also, why in the heck isn't the rear diff a high pinion like the front? That would solve everything.
Thanks for your time & please forgive my ignorance. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I've got the Terraflex 2.5. The rear was a bit saggy so I slipped in a 1" disc. Now she sits pretty level & I'm happy with the overall height of my Jeep.
I have searched on here quite a bit. Seems like half say I need a new rear drive shaft & half say I don't. The angle looks pretty steep to me.
Also some talk about rotating the entire axle so my pinion ligns up better. Could I just cut my upper controll arms & weld in the proper length piece. (I'm assuming it would be better to lengthen the upper so that it moves the rear tire away from the pinch seam
) Perhaps this rotation will not effect the overall center of the wheel

Thinking that rotating the axle is going to jack up my spring & bumpstop alignments?
Which is the best aftermarket adjustable upper control arm & drive shaft?
Also, why in the heck isn't the rear diff a high pinion like the front? That would solve everything.
Thanks for your time & please forgive my ignorance. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Just buy some spares from the for sale section of the board and run it until it breaks ... that is what I'm gonna do ...
No sense rotating the axle since I hear the CV boot normally tears at the Transfer Case ...
I just put a Rancho 4" on ... and Rancho told me they have seen no issues with their lift on a 2-door ... Really gonna depend on how much flexing you do I suppose.
No sense rotating the axle since I hear the CV boot normally tears at the Transfer Case ...
I just put a Rancho 4" on ... and Rancho told me they have seen no issues with their lift on a 2-door ... Really gonna depend on how much flexing you do I suppose.
Thanks for your input Sir!
The only other was is to replace rear shafts with aftermarket shafts, change to u-joints, add adjustable control arms and possibly move your spring mounts ...
Like I said above ... keep a spare handy ... and see how long the original one lasts. I have read some folks have them fail in the first 1000 miles ... others have never had them fail ....
The only other was is to replace rear shafts with aftermarket shafts, change to u-joints, add adjustable control arms and possibly move your spring mounts ...
The only other was is to replace rear shafts with aftermarket shafts, change to u-joints, add adjustable control arms and possibly move your spring mounts ...
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Run your drive shafts until they go bad.
I've been running my stock drive shafts over 80k miles with a 4" lift.
But recently I was getting a knocking sound while in 4WD. So I'll be replacing the front with a Tom Woods Drive Shaft in the next few days.
I've been running my stock drive shafts over 80k miles with a 4" lift.
But recently I was getting a knocking sound while in 4WD. So I'll be replacing the front with a Tom Woods Drive Shaft in the next few days.
Last edited by Abacabb; Oct 26, 2010 at 04:50 PM.
Seems to be the going answer. Will I have some warning B4 I'm stranded?


