This worked great using a wrench, impossible with a ratchet.

No way to use a torque wrench on that bolt. The 2012 is much easier than my older model with the 3.8. I actually need a longer bolt that goes below the exhaust then weld a nut to use the torque wrench. As of now , I used the German measure of torque "Gutentight"

The only thing on my mind was your comment about damaging the transmissions rear extension housing.

 

Mine went "pop" as a friend was using the "gutentight" method. I had told him I had a problem in the past with seepage, so he was trying to prevent that. $2500 later I had a new trans (and I get dealer's price on parts). Just use caution. It is a pipe thread--the fit is tapered, so you are pushing out on the hole the tighter you screw it in. Better it leak slightly than you crack the housing. Just go back and tighten a tad more if it does. And we used a ratcheting wrench on a short piece of Allen wrench I cut off to manipulate the plug.

 

I used Amsoil synchromesh for the transmission (not really an Amsoil fan, I know it's good but don't use it often) based on the forum recommendations and now the shifting is so smooth, yesterday I tried to put it in reverse twice while going for 6th on the highway. I've driven manual transmission cars for 24 years.

I'm impressed. I would recommend Amsoil based on my experience especially for transmission and transfer case where it's replaced every 3-4 years.

 

I found changing all fluids on my '12 to be rather easy and convenient. Aside from the hex tool needed, which harbor freight had for cheap, it was a walk in the park. I put some thread tape back on the plug after thoroughly cleaning all the old stuff off, and just put it back to where it sat before as far as thread depth goes.

So far I've only used royal purple in both transmission and transfer case. Transfer case doesn't feel much different. Transmission, a little better. Will be trying Redline next, just to be sure it feels as good as it's gonna get.