Idk if I'm in the right section but my pressure plate or throw out bearing is chattering. I'm going to replace it all just wondering what setup to go with if any one has any knowledge

 

I'm enjoying my Spec stage 1 clutch and it came in under $300 shipped with the correct pressure plate and throw out bearing. No need for a heavier flywheel either. Tickperformance.com beat all of our vendor prices.

 

I would agree to go with a spec clutch as I've heard great things about them. My only experience is with junk duralast clutches which last me about 20k. Whichever you go with, I highly advice against duralast. My .02

 

Did you replace the flywheel any way and the pilot bearing ?

 

I sanded the face of the flywheel, it was very clean so I saw no reason to replace it.

I did do the pilot bearing. It's $12 and you're already all the way in there. I pulled the flywheel and tapped it out. Seated the new one (I used mopar) then reinstalled and sanded the surface.

You should also take the opportunity to change your transfer case fluid while it's out. Top tip- try to pull them apart if you can while it's in the vehicle, it makes handling the transmission much easier. I couldn't so I dropped the two together, then separated them and reinstalled one at a time.

 

Makes sense. Would you be able to send me the link for the clutch you bought I can't find any jeep stuff on their site

 

Tick Performance, Inc. - Search Results for "Spec clutch jk"

That looks to be everything jk related on their site. They ship pretty quickly too, that was important to me but I didn't find out until 2 days later when I had a clutch on my doorstep.

 

Thank you. I'm not 100% sure if it's my pressure plate I'm assuming. It's chattering but only when I pull away from a dead stop and goes away after I start going
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RduW8J-mKsw

 

How is the pedal pressure with the spec clutch compared to stock? And more holding power?

 

Stage 1 has a firmer than stock pedal, but nothing uncomfortable. The pedal is slightly firmer than my 10 but it's considerably firmer than my friend's 15, so I guess the answer depends on what year you've got.

Holding power is noticeably different. I think they claim something like 50% more than stock but let's put it into real-world terms. 4lo and 1st- it used to take a half of a second to cut the power when you'd hit the clutch. Now it stops instantly. Same deal with reverse. It used to roll a little for just a quick half of a second but now it's instant.

Coming off of the clutch at stop lights is still very DD friendly. It does not appear to anyone that I'm dumping the clutch like a full race clutch.....yet I could if I wanted to do so.

They've got a 500 mile break-in that sucks to do (city driving), but one that's done then they say you're all set. I'd buy this clutch again, maybe even do the 1+ if I had a couple extra bucks just to see what the next level looks like.