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Bump steer issues

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Old Jan 26, 2022 | 09:40 AM
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Default Bump steer issues

So to start off I have a 2015 Jeep Wrangler unlimited sport on a 6” lift. My steering is all over the place and trying to find the most logical fix without just buying all new suspension parts. So far I can tell that it looks like my track bar and drag link are crossed? This would be my idea of why it wobbles. Also my caster is at -0.71 in the front. Any ideas to help. Most shops I’ve went to will only try to talk to me as if they only want to replace what “I think” needs replaced vs helping with the problem. I’ll show some pictures below



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Old Jan 26, 2022 | 10:53 AM
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Yep, the trackbar and draglink should remain roughly parallel to each other. (and preferably, keeping both at less-steep angles). A Draglink Flip / HighSteer raises the axle end of the trackbar, and moves the axle end of the draglink up on top of the knuckle appx the same amount. (can't tell, but is your trackbar bracket hella tall, causing them to cross?)

Caster is around 4.2* stock. As that number goes down, the steering gets flighty. Get some form of caster correction installed, or if it is already installed, raise it. Most folks like to be in the 4-5* range after a lift. NOTE that, at taller lift heights, higher Caster has the front driveshaft at less-than-optimal angles and can induce vibrations, so, you will run into a tradeoff between good Caster and good joint angles. (maybe this is the reason your are intentionally running 0 Caster? If so, maybe a new axle housing or a hub kit might be in your future.)

The swaybar looks to be angled up significantly?

Last edited by nthinuf; Jan 26, 2022 at 11:01 AM.
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Old Jan 26, 2022 | 10:59 AM
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So just speaking frankly, you have a shit load of lift and that is flat out going to be difficult on a factory axle that has 6° of caster built in. I'm not going to chastise you or question you about the lift. That all is what it is, but you need to realize that you can only do so much. Starting with the biggest issue there, it does appear your axle side TB mount is way high to me. The DL is flipped to the top of the knuckle and it does not appear that you have a drop pitman on the other end (not advising you should, just that this is what you're working with). In that case, your TB at the axle should only be lifted 3" higher than the factory mount which would be the same amount your DL was raised. Your DL and TB being out of parallel would indeed cause some issues for you, which would be compounded greatly by the extreme low caster you are running.

Can you confirm 1) there is no drop pitman, and 2) let us know how high that axle side TB mount is over the factory one?

And yes, that sway bar is way too high.

Last edited by resharp001; Jan 26, 2022 at 11:09 AM.
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Old Jan 26, 2022 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by nthinuf
Yep, the trackbar and draglink should remain roughly parallel to each other. (and preferably, keeping both at less-steep angles). A Draglink Flip / HighSteer raises the axle end of the trackbar, and moves the axle end of the draglink up on top of the knuckle appx the same amount. (can't tell, but is your trackbar bracket hella tall, causing them to cross?)

Caster is around 4.2* stock. As that number goes down, the steering gets flighty. Get some form of caster correction installed, or if it is already installed, raise it. Most folks like to be in the 4-5* range after a lift. NOTE that, at taller lift heights, higher Caster has the front driveshaft at less-than-optimal angles and can induce vibrations, so, you will run into a tradeoff between good Caster and good joint angles. (maybe this is the reason your are intentionally running 0 Caster? If so, maybe a new axle housing or a hub kit might be in your future.)

The swaybar looks to be angled up significantly?
Thank ls for the insight,

so the reason for low caster is because my control arms are non adjustable prior owner had the factory arms fabricated to extend, Was told I could buy ball joints to extend them if I wanted better caster from the shop for personal preference. As far as tb and DL the shop didn’t notice it besides saying my TB was upside down but clearly it’s more then that. Everything on the body is solid except them bump steer issue which could come from both the non parallel and caster as we both agree (I bought the jeep like this 4 months ago) all after market came with so I’m figuring out a lot as I go also im a prior mechanic but never worked on lifts so I have some familiarity with things but left unknown on others.
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Old Jan 26, 2022 | 11:40 AM
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Can you include some more pictures that include your control arms please, showing both axle and frame sides.
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Old Jan 26, 2022 | 11:55 AM
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The trackbar on the frame side, is that the stock mount or is it a drop mount? If it is a drop mount that is the problem with the TB and draglink not being parallel.
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Old Jan 26, 2022 | 02:36 PM
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Lots of good advice here. Agree you need to get some caster here around 4 degrees +. That sway bar probably limits up travel - need to shorten the links.

My first advice is to get that thing down by at least 2" then a host of issues go away and align the TB and DL and get that caster back. It should drive OK after that.
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Old Jan 26, 2022 | 02:52 PM
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my control arms are non adjustable prior owner had the factory arms fabricated to extend, Was told I could buy ball joints to extend them
From the Caster numbers, my guess is that the control arms are stock, and the only 'fabrication' was telling you that they had been modified... But yeah, there are cheap little components called Cam Bolts that will allow a minimal amount of correction. (2*, maybe?) So you could get from 0 to 2* or whatever, but that is still way lower than you really want to be. Personally, I would just get shorter coils, but if you want to keep that height, more correction might be a good call. (a full set of adjustable arms would be expensive, but at that height it's probably the way to go. At least consider a set of CA Drop Brackets for the front and a set of adj uppers for the rear.

For the trackbar and draglink, to me, it is easier to visualize with straight lines than bent tubes.

Red - draglink, axle end flipped to top of knuckle
Yellow - trackbar, axle end raised on that super tall bracket made for some other vehicle and just slapped on. (red and yellow not parallel)
Green - trackbar, IF axle end were raised with a more appropriate height bracket. (red and green are parallel)
Another option, (not the best option, but 'an' option), would be to add a Drop Pitman. This would lower the frame end of the draglink, theoretically making red and yellow parallel.


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Old Jan 26, 2022 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by nthinuf
From the Caster numbers, my guess is that the control arms are stock, and the only 'fabrication' was telling you that they had been modified...
In these couple pictures those lowers don't look stock, but can't tell what is going on there which is why I was asking for a couple more pictures. The upper is definitely not stock either. One thing is VERY apparent though.....look at the angle on that lower arm. Jeesh. That can't be a terribly enjoyable ride.

Originally Posted by camoworld




IMO, if you plan to DD that jeep it would be best to either bring that down a few inches as Sixty4x4 suggested above, or start looking at long arm set up, cuz that is just too high for those short arms to handle well. That doesn't do much to address caster though. Lowering it is by far the smarter option.

Last edited by resharp001; Jan 26, 2022 at 04:48 PM.
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Old Jan 26, 2022 | 06:45 PM
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Yeah, hadn't noticed the lower arm, was just thinking of the caster numbers. Interesting design. Maybe they did make them, just to stock length instead of shorter?

And looks like that trackbar bracket is part of the truss? So it might take some cutting and welding and not just a bracket swap. Lots to think about on this one before you decide on a direction to go.
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