$40 Dollar Off-Road Lights
Thread Starter
JK Junkie
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,911
Likes: 0
From: Broken Arrow, OK
$40 Dollar Off-Road Lights
I was at my local auto parts store this weekend and noticed a set of Pilot PL-2202C off road lights. Considering their cheap price, and functional appearance, I figured I had nothing to lose.
Parts I used:
PL-2202C light kit - $39.95
6 feet of 3/8" Wiring Conduit - $2.25
2 sets of longer bolts, washers, and lock washers - $1.50
Note: I cannot remember what size bolts I ended up using, but I purchased them from a local hardware store as the bolts included in the light kit are too short for use on the front bumper.
First order of business is selecting a location to mount them on the front bumper. This is mainly a matter of taste, but I mounted mine 2 and 3/4" inches back and 4 and 1/2" inches over.
Once the location for the lights was selected I drilled a hole for each light, and attached them. To attach the lights you do not have to remove the air dam beneath the bumper. You should be to gain enough access to the mounting bolts by lying under the bumper and working around the air dam. Do not attach the electrical cabling to the lights yet.
Once mounted I proceeded to run the electrical wiring through the engine compartment. The first step of this process was to identify where to feed the wiring from the engine compartment to the cab area. I ended up drilling a new hole through the firewall located roughly 6 inches below the steering column. With the hole drilled I feed the red and white feeds through the firewall and secured them from slipping back through. Back in the engine compartment The red feed run directly to the positive terminally of the battery. The white feed run to the lights themselves.
From here on the running of the wires is highly dependent where you choose to route through the firewall at. The main concern is that you want to keep the wires safe from moving components and the engine itself. I ran my wires along existing wiring conduit as much as possible using zip ties to keep them secured to the exterior of the conduit.
With the black and white wires now routed that dead area below our lights and above the air dam I then ran drops through the seam between the bumper and the plastic guard. For a better explanation of where the wires are ran through look at the picture above; the wiring conduit leaving the lights slips through the seam I am speaking of to the underneath of the bumper.
I then simply connected the black and white wires to each light using the supplied wiring harness. For that extra professional look I used 3/8" inch wiring conduit to hide the exposed wiring.
Here are some pics of the finished exterior.
I am still not completely finished with this mod as the supplied wiring was too short to place the power switch anywhere useful. Until I can purchase additional wiring, or more importantly decide where to mount the switch, the power switch is just dangling on my drivers floor board. Additionally I would like to re-wire the lights as to not allow them to power on unless the key is set to accessory or on.
Parts I used:
PL-2202C light kit - $39.95
6 feet of 3/8" Wiring Conduit - $2.25
2 sets of longer bolts, washers, and lock washers - $1.50
Note: I cannot remember what size bolts I ended up using, but I purchased them from a local hardware store as the bolts included in the light kit are too short for use on the front bumper.
First order of business is selecting a location to mount them on the front bumper. This is mainly a matter of taste, but I mounted mine 2 and 3/4" inches back and 4 and 1/2" inches over.
Once the location for the lights was selected I drilled a hole for each light, and attached them. To attach the lights you do not have to remove the air dam beneath the bumper. You should be to gain enough access to the mounting bolts by lying under the bumper and working around the air dam. Do not attach the electrical cabling to the lights yet.
Once mounted I proceeded to run the electrical wiring through the engine compartment. The first step of this process was to identify where to feed the wiring from the engine compartment to the cab area. I ended up drilling a new hole through the firewall located roughly 6 inches below the steering column. With the hole drilled I feed the red and white feeds through the firewall and secured them from slipping back through. Back in the engine compartment The red feed run directly to the positive terminally of the battery. The white feed run to the lights themselves.
From here on the running of the wires is highly dependent where you choose to route through the firewall at. The main concern is that you want to keep the wires safe from moving components and the engine itself. I ran my wires along existing wiring conduit as much as possible using zip ties to keep them secured to the exterior of the conduit.
With the black and white wires now routed that dead area below our lights and above the air dam I then ran drops through the seam between the bumper and the plastic guard. For a better explanation of where the wires are ran through look at the picture above; the wiring conduit leaving the lights slips through the seam I am speaking of to the underneath of the bumper.
I then simply connected the black and white wires to each light using the supplied wiring harness. For that extra professional look I used 3/8" inch wiring conduit to hide the exposed wiring.
Here are some pics of the finished exterior.
I am still not completely finished with this mod as the supplied wiring was too short to place the power switch anywhere useful. Until I can purchase additional wiring, or more importantly decide where to mount the switch, the power switch is just dangling on my drivers floor board. Additionally I would like to re-wire the lights as to not allow them to power on unless the key is set to accessory or on.
Last edited by u-joint; Dec 24, 2007 at 08:22 PM.
Thread Starter
JK Junkie
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,911
Likes: 0
From: Broken Arrow, OK
Thanks for the positive comments.
When I saw these lights, from what appears to be some off-brand, I was skeptical. However once I got them mounted I was impressed with how good they look.
Since installation of these lights I have had my rig out on the interstate going about 70 MPH. I was concerned that the high winds plus interstate speed would end up causing the lights to rotate from their original positions. Fortunately my fears were unfounded. My mountings held up great on the interstate.
When I saw these lights, from what appears to be some off-brand, I was skeptical. However once I got them mounted I was impressed with how good they look.
Since installation of these lights I have had my rig out on the interstate going about 70 MPH. I was concerned that the high winds plus interstate speed would end up causing the lights to rotate from their original positions. Fortunately my fears were unfounded. My mountings held up great on the interstate.
Thread Starter
JK Junkie
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,911
Likes: 0
From: Broken Arrow, OK
rfrogman nice looking setup!
Where did you place the power switch for your lights?
I have not decided upon a place to put mine as I am hesitant of cutting into my dash. So for now the switch is dangling on the floor board
Where did you place the power switch for your lights?
I have not decided upon a place to put mine as I am hesitant of cutting into my dash. So for now the switch is dangling on the floor board
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 423
Likes: 0
From: Nashville TN
Driver side next above speaker and I ran the wires though the fire wall hole on the same side. Red, white and black wire.
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JK Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: Freeland, MI
Wow, thanks for the write-up. I just looked at the Pilots today while trying to find some 4" PIAA 510's at the local shops to fill the holes in my Purejeep stubby bumper. Price made them sound too good to be true. Think I might give em a shot rather than spend the $200 for the PIAAs after reading that others are happy with them...