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-   -   ~WRITE-UP~ Bodylift (Body Mount) Locations Schematic (https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-write-ups-39/%7Ewrite-up%7E-bodylift-body-mount-locations-schematic-67710/)

SASQUATCH Jan 8, 2009 06:39 AM

~WRITE-UP~ Bodylift (Body Mount) Locations Schematic
 
I've seen several posts asking about body mount locations for bodylifts on 2-dr & 4-dr JKs, so I threw something together to hopefully help locate them.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e5...BODYMOUNTS.jpg

08JKWrangler Jan 8, 2009 08:09 AM


Originally Posted by SASQUATCH (Post 878260)
I've seen several posts asking about body mount locations for bodylifts on 2-dr & 4-dr JKs, so I threw something together to hopefully help locate them.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e5...TLOCATIONS.jpg

Very nice Sas. Now lets hear back from those who did the Bl? Which brand did you go with and why? Daystar, M.O.R.E., etc....

SASQUATCH Jan 8, 2009 09:52 AM


Originally Posted by 08JKWrangler (Post 878432)
Very nice Sas. Now lets hear back from those who did the Bl? Which brand did you go with and why? Daystar, M.O.R.E., etc....

Thanks 08JK, in response to your inquiry I went with a 2" BDS bodylift and loved it. I do have a manual so the inner boot was a challenge and I made a writeup for it which worked excellent. Aside from having to heat/bend my shifter accordingly to compensate for bodytub to shifter tower geometry it was a great kit. I removed it a few months later and we installed it on N2Rock's 4-dr JK (auto) and it went smooth and his JK looks like a green military monster...well he has other monster items on his JK :D. I liked the BDS kit because it came with rear bumper brackets raising it 2". In closing I would have kept the 2" BDS kit if I had an auto and 4-dr, it never did look quite right to me on the 2-dr for some reason :dontknow2:

SASQUATCH Jan 8, 2009 11:39 AM

damn your JK looks 2" taller than mine now :what?: ...I'd say "time for 37s :D" but I have to pay off my fancy TV first :rollingeyes:

07Rubi2dr Jan 8, 2009 01:09 PM


Originally Posted by SASQUATCH (Post 878641)
Thanks 08JK, in response to your inquiry I went with a 2" BDS bodylift and loved it. I do have a manual so the inner boot was a challenge and I made a writeup for it which worked excellent. Aside from having to heat/bend my shifter accordingly to compensate for bodytub to shifter tower geometry it was a great kit. I removed it a few months later and we installed it on N2Rock's 4-dr JK (auto) and it went smooth and his JK looks like a green military monster...well he has other monster items on his JK :D. I liked the BDS kit because it came with rear bumper brackets raising it 2". In closing I would have kept the 2" BDS kit if I had an auto and 4-dr, it never did look quite right to me on the 2-dr for some reason :dontknow2:

do you think a 1" body lift would cause all these issues with the shifter? I have one on order and hope its not as big a pain in the ass as that sounds to make work right with the 6spd.

07JKRUBI Jan 8, 2009 02:42 PM

No, you will not have all the issues with the shifter. You will need to trim the inner shift boot though.:yup:

Will35 Jan 8, 2009 05:18 PM

I put on the MORE 1" lift yesterday and definately have issues with the shifter! It is easy to put on except it makes no sense to me you have to hammer the stock washers off the old body mount bolts and reuse them on the new bolts. I would pay a couple of more bucks for some new washers but maybe I'm lazy.:brows: Anyway I always wondered about the validity of some people saying things such as "I put on a lift and my axle didn't move any" and the next person says "mine moved a half inch" with the same lift. Now I believe them! The Jeep gods have always smiled on me until this lift (which I like and is a good bang for the buck modification) and the darn shifter boot. I have a unlimited six speed and my shifter is whacked even after I trimmed the inner shift boot. WOL's instructions were perfect and all I used for the install :clap: but with all the plastic trimmed off the bottom area to the metal it still wants to pop out of 2,4,6. No previous trans problems, started immediately after I went to back it out of the garage. The upper boot wants to move the shifter to neutral because of the new geometry of the lever to the boot. After reading this thread I figure I need to bend my shift lever to get this fixed. I'm scared to drive it with my hand off the shifter. So....1. how did you go about bending the shifter? 2. Whats the best way to cover this opening so water, fumes, etc. can't get in? Thanks for the great info I get off here.

jksmith Jan 8, 2009 05:24 PM

is there any place that just sells the bumper brackets? i put a 2 inc lift on my jeep and it didnt come with them which sucks and i didnt pay attention to it when i bought it

SASQUATCH Jan 12, 2009 07:30 AM


Originally Posted by 07JKRUBI (Post 879185)
No, you will not have all the issues with the shifter. You will need to trim the inner shift boot though.:yup:

which is an issue for some of us, trimming the boot leaves "just the factory foam tower nosie suppression seal" and with trimming involving a gap in the inner boot you lose the water/heat/debris sealing ability of the inner boot. Granted it's not water-proof, but it does provide some water and element resistance.

SASQUATCH Jan 12, 2009 07:38 AM


Originally Posted by Will35 (Post 879464)
I put on the MORE 1" lift yesterday and definately have issues with the shifter! It is easy to put on except it makes no sense to me you have to hammer the stock washers off the old body mount bolts and reuse them on the new bolts. I would pay a couple of more bucks for some new washers but maybe I'm lazy.:brows: Anyway I always wondered about the validity of some people saying things such as "I put on a lift and my axle didn't move any" and the next person says "mine moved a half inch" with the same lift. Now I believe them! The Jeep gods have always smiled on me until this lift (which I like and is a good bang for the buck modification) and the darn shifter boot. I have a unlimited six speed and my shifter is whacked even after I trimmed the inner shift boot. WOL's instructions were perfect and all I used for the install :clap: but with all the plastic trimmed off the bottom area to the metal it still wants to pop out of 2,4,6. No previous trans problems, started immediately after I went to back it out of the garage. The upper boot wants to move the shifter to neutral because of the new geometry of the lever to the boot. After reading this thread I figure I need to bend my shift lever to get this fixed. I'm scared to drive it with my hand off the shifter. So....1. how did you go about bending the shifter? 2. Whats the best way to cover this opening so water, fumes, etc. can't get in? Thanks for the great info I get off here.

Your last sentence nailed my post above, some think the 1" is golden and have no issues which is great, but most tend to like sealing out the elements. with the 2" bodylift I used my old Navy pipefitting deep sea diving technique of using a simple hardwire template by positioning it at the fulcrum (shift tower) and having it the same shape/pattern as the factory shifter I would see where my knuckles would hit or binding occur and bend the wire accordingly which lined up with the lateral centerline of the shifter handle. Once I found the optimum bend points I pulled the shifter handle back off and heat/bent accordingly, cooled, tested it out and it worked fine. With a whopping 2" BL it was great but still didn't feel like the factory shifter and perhaps it would be better with a 1" BL. Most of the time everything I've read everyones cut their inner-boot and their shifting is just ok at best.


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