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Brake Pad Replacement Using Hawk Brake Pads

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Old Aug 21, 2011 | 05:08 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by joe002
Thanks everyone. I figured that everyone will need to replace their brake pads, and it’s a pretty easy job with our JKs.

whpony96 - As Brett indicated the rear pads are smaller then the front, but also I do think the TCS kicks in a lot when you are wheeling your Jeep (which is a good thing).

blue project - I just happened to have it in my tool box - it was part of a cheap/light weight set of two wrenches tor repairing a bicycle.
Mine have just started squealing ever so often. A little nervous on doing it but I have a friend who ISA former mechanic that I'm going to get to watch me when he drinks my beer!
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Old Aug 21, 2011 | 06:25 PM
  #22  
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Hey man, when I come to a stop at a red light I get a noise from my rear brakes. It sounds like a slipping noise. Kind of like a finger sliding across wet glass for a moment. Is it my brake pads? I have 19k miles on my jk
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Old Aug 21, 2011 | 08:54 PM
  #23  
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I would definitely look at them through the window to see what their status is..

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Old Sep 3, 2011 | 03:24 PM
  #24  
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I did my rear pads today, and will do front pads tomorrow morning. I guarantee if I can do this, ANYONE can do it.

I used Wagner ThermoQuiet pads. I chose them when I saw they had a $15 rebate per set, so I get premium pads for a decent price. I'm not sure why all new pads don't come with the clips. I went ahead and reused the old ones. Also, the ThermoQuiets instructions tell you NOT to use any brake grease. They claim the coating or alloy on them doesn't require it. From my first little drive around the block, I had no squeaking or issues.

I'll post the verdict when I get the fronts done and drive it around for awhile.

Thanks for the write-up, and to all others that did write-ups. (I looked at all of them plus a couple YouTube videos just to be sure I didn't miss something.)
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 10:45 AM
  #25  
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Did anyone ever determine whether the front bolts are to be tightened to 26 or 32 lbs?

I certainly don't want to under tighten them, especially on the fronts. I don't want to over tighten them, either, and risk the bolt breaking.

What do you guys do??
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Old Sep 4, 2011 | 10:59 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by dmwil
Did anyone ever determine whether the front bolts are to be tightened to 26 or 32 lbs?

I certainly don't want to under tighten them, especially on the fronts. I don't want to over tighten them, either, and risk the bolt breaking.

What do you guys do??
Same bolts for the same function so I figured they have a typo in one place of the FSM and it should be 26 Front and Rear.
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 03:50 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by joe002
Same bolts for the same function so I figured they have a typo in one place of the FSM and it should be 26 Front and Rear.
That's what I did, at first. Then, I went back and tightened them to 32, because of the fronts doing the most work. On the torque wrench, I couldn't really feel to the difference between 26 and 32. I hope I don't cause it any problems. It feels fine, but I haven't driven much yet.

If it is a typo, what a $*&#@# thing to do! I'd rather them have a typo on how to put in the rear floor mats or something like that!
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Old Sep 5, 2011 | 06:09 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by dmwil
...If it is a typo, what a $*&#@# thing to do! I'd rather them have a typo on how to put in the rear floor mats or something like that!
Well, it's a typo somewhere because in one place in the FSM they say 26 and in another place in the FSM they say 32. Both can't be correct, so one is wrong/typo...
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Old Sep 17, 2011 | 10:06 AM
  #29  
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Nice write-up. Thanks See my comments in the stock section
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Old Sep 17, 2011 | 10:18 AM
  #30  
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Joe002, were you able to get a set of the spring metal pad slide inserts anywhere but the dealership? One was missing when I removed the right rear inside pad.
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