Bushwacker Flat Flares - [my] Changes to Instructions
This past week I got a set of Bushwacker flat style fender flares for my 4-door JK. They are really sweet, and for the most part went on exactly as their VERY well illustrated, 88-step instruction guide would have you believe.
There were enough difficulties, omissions, and confusions with their instructions and install kit, though, that I thought I'd share on the write-ups forum for anyone planning to install these flares.
First off, the original instructions are available in PDF form from bushwacker's website. They're not hard to find.
These adjustments/notes are in no particular order. I am writing this as an addendum to the PDF instructions, in order to not have to replicate all 17 pages here, as a service to anyone who might be about to buy, or is considering buying, a set:
I. Order of instructions -- They say to start by sticking the edge trim onto the flares. I disagree. In steps 36 and 37 they have you install the marker lights into the front flares. It would be much easier to do a good job installing the marker lights if you didn't have to worry about denting, dislodging, or generally messing up the edge trim in the process. You can put the edge trim on after this, and you can still test-install for polarity with the lights mounted on the flares.
(EDIT: Also, I did the steps to remove all stock flares and liners, Then did the steps to separate the liners from the fenders -- be sure to see item IV below-- then took my jeep and the liners to the car wash and got everything really nice and clean...)
II. Tools suggestion -- They suggest a 11/32" socket on an 8" extension to install the marker lights. If you are like me and only have an 11/32 on 1/4 drive, but don't have a ton of 1/4 drive extensions, a 9mm (which is more common for 3/8 drive sets) will work too, since it seems like extensions for 3/8 drive sockets are much more common. EDIT: Also, a proper trim tab removal tool would really help pop some of those stubborn stock trim tabs out of the bodywork. At least I really wish I had one.
III. kit parts -- the 5/16" hex head bolts and nylock nuts (all stainless) tend to seize once the nylon part is engaged, and are very weak. With a tiny 1/4-drive ratchet and stubby 1/2 open ended wrench I managed to twist two of these bolts completely in half. This necessitated an emergency trip to my local ACE hardware for replacements. And just for my own reputation's sake, I am mechanically inclined and to my knowledge have never cross threaded anything before.
Also, the "plastic push retainers" break very easily. I don't know why, but I've busted three of them, and as a result I only have three fenders on my vehicle as the rears take several to install. I have to call them tomorrow.
These two quality control issues on simple hardware were the most disappointing part of an otherwise awesome setup.
IV. missing details -- steps 7 and 8 have you separate the OE fender flares from the OE liners. Be very careful to retain the "plastic thread engager" that comes one on each fender. This is not mentioned in steps 7 or 8 but is required for re-use in step 31.
V. Alternatives -- on step 51 they have you glue a reflex reflector to your body panels. I planned on NOT doing this, but found a nice flat surface on the inner fender liners to stick this reflector to, and it doesn't look too bad.
VI. Misc -- step 62 shows a cutout in the rear of the rear fender liner. Not mentioned is a similar cutout is required on the front of the rear fender liner. I can't illustrated this better than you test-fitting these items first would make plainly obvious. It's a lot easier to trim the liner before it is solidly mounted...
That's it. It's not a lot, but I hope it'll help anyone about to tackle this install (WOL I saw you had a set of these set aside for little nemo, I hope I catch you before you do these!)
These fender flares are really nice, in spite of these few idiosyncracies. Once I get some replacement plastic push retainers, and finish the install, I'll get some pics up of the new fenders, because I know -- THIS THREAD IS USELESS WITHOUT PICS!!!
There were enough difficulties, omissions, and confusions with their instructions and install kit, though, that I thought I'd share on the write-ups forum for anyone planning to install these flares.
First off, the original instructions are available in PDF form from bushwacker's website. They're not hard to find.
These adjustments/notes are in no particular order. I am writing this as an addendum to the PDF instructions, in order to not have to replicate all 17 pages here, as a service to anyone who might be about to buy, or is considering buying, a set:
I. Order of instructions -- They say to start by sticking the edge trim onto the flares. I disagree. In steps 36 and 37 they have you install the marker lights into the front flares. It would be much easier to do a good job installing the marker lights if you didn't have to worry about denting, dislodging, or generally messing up the edge trim in the process. You can put the edge trim on after this, and you can still test-install for polarity with the lights mounted on the flares.
(EDIT: Also, I did the steps to remove all stock flares and liners, Then did the steps to separate the liners from the fenders -- be sure to see item IV below-- then took my jeep and the liners to the car wash and got everything really nice and clean...)
II. Tools suggestion -- They suggest a 11/32" socket on an 8" extension to install the marker lights. If you are like me and only have an 11/32 on 1/4 drive, but don't have a ton of 1/4 drive extensions, a 9mm (which is more common for 3/8 drive sets) will work too, since it seems like extensions for 3/8 drive sockets are much more common. EDIT: Also, a proper trim tab removal tool would really help pop some of those stubborn stock trim tabs out of the bodywork. At least I really wish I had one.
III. kit parts -- the 5/16" hex head bolts and nylock nuts (all stainless) tend to seize once the nylon part is engaged, and are very weak. With a tiny 1/4-drive ratchet and stubby 1/2 open ended wrench I managed to twist two of these bolts completely in half. This necessitated an emergency trip to my local ACE hardware for replacements. And just for my own reputation's sake, I am mechanically inclined and to my knowledge have never cross threaded anything before.
Also, the "plastic push retainers" break very easily. I don't know why, but I've busted three of them, and as a result I only have three fenders on my vehicle as the rears take several to install. I have to call them tomorrow.
These two quality control issues on simple hardware were the most disappointing part of an otherwise awesome setup.
IV. missing details -- steps 7 and 8 have you separate the OE fender flares from the OE liners. Be very careful to retain the "plastic thread engager" that comes one on each fender. This is not mentioned in steps 7 or 8 but is required for re-use in step 31.
V. Alternatives -- on step 51 they have you glue a reflex reflector to your body panels. I planned on NOT doing this, but found a nice flat surface on the inner fender liners to stick this reflector to, and it doesn't look too bad.
VI. Misc -- step 62 shows a cutout in the rear of the rear fender liner. Not mentioned is a similar cutout is required on the front of the rear fender liner. I can't illustrated this better than you test-fitting these items first would make plainly obvious. It's a lot easier to trim the liner before it is solidly mounted...
That's it. It's not a lot, but I hope it'll help anyone about to tackle this install (WOL I saw you had a set of these set aside for little nemo, I hope I catch you before you do these!)
These fender flares are really nice, in spite of these few idiosyncracies. Once I get some replacement plastic push retainers, and finish the install, I'll get some pics up of the new fenders, because I know -- THIS THREAD IS USELESS WITHOUT PICS!!!
Last edited by isuadam; Jun 22, 2010 at 08:44 AM.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 339
Likes: 0
From: Lakeside Ca.
Wow! Exactly the same thing I encountered yesterday. I broke 3 of the first 5 bolts (went to the hardware store and got 20 new ones then broke like 3 more trying to get them off). I also am going to call bushwacker about that. I didn't install the trim until after the test fit. However when I plugged the new Led lights I didn't read that step and plugged the black OEM wire to the black LED wire and white OEM to the white LED. I didnt actuall check the lighs until I completely installed them
It took about 10 minutes to fix that today.
It took about 10 minutes to fix that today.
Thanks to the OP for the heads up on some of the issues you had and everyone else chimming in to be careful with those bolts.
Not including the trips to the hardware store for replacements, how long are you guys taking to get them installed? thanks
Just so I can't say I didn't say it...

LOL, would love to see how everyone's rig looks with them on. I will be purchasing before the sale and free shipping is over. Glad to see others are working out the bugs of the install before I wrestle with it!
Not including the trips to the hardware store for replacements, how long are you guys taking to get them installed? thanks
Just so I can't say I didn't say it...

LOL, would love to see how everyone's rig looks with them on. I will be purchasing before the sale and free shipping is over. Glad to see others are working out the bugs of the install before I wrestle with it!
Last edited by Dylanjam77; Jun 22, 2010 at 08:37 AM.
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Thanks fourXfour... wow, looks awesome. How was your install? Time, difficulty, broken bolts? LOL What else have you done to your new Rubi? Is that stock suspension so far? Are you looking to go bigger with tires? Once again, looks awesome! 
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 339
Likes: 0
From: Lakeside Ca.
I bought 20 of each and plan on returning the crap bolts to bushwacker. It wasnt too difficult to install keep in mind of the hints from the OP.
The Rubi is my Wifes. Currently running stock suspension. I am doing research for a prototype coilover setup on it.

My JK is a little black 2 door



