Dominion Off Road (Woods) Muffler Relocation
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Dominion Off Road (Woods) Muffler Relocation
This is my first write up, and only my second post, so be kind if it’s not up to the usual JK-forum standard. Also, I am not, in any way shape or form, a mechanic so understand that some steps may not be the 100% correct way to go. But it worked for me…
I ordered the Dominion Off Road Cat-Back Muffler Relocation Kit from Brett Woods (jeepswag.com) and figured I would do a pictorial write up, since I couldn’t find one here on the forum. The instructions that came with the kit were pretty straight forward, but I am adding a few more pictures and details. Any questions feel free to PM me or call Brett directly. He is a terrific resource- 626-872-4571.
Here are the parts included in the kit:
1. With a Sawzall, cut the band of the passenger side muffler isolator.
Within the thick black rubber band, there is a thin metal band, which is why the Sawzall is required.
I ordered the Dominion Off Road Cat-Back Muffler Relocation Kit from Brett Woods (jeepswag.com) and figured I would do a pictorial write up, since I couldn’t find one here on the forum. The instructions that came with the kit were pretty straight forward, but I am adding a few more pictures and details. Any questions feel free to PM me or call Brett directly. He is a terrific resource- 626-872-4571.
Here are the parts included in the kit:
1. With a Sawzall, cut the band of the passenger side muffler isolator.
Within the thick black rubber band, there is a thin metal band, which is why the Sawzall is required.
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2. With some oil and a pair of channel locks, remove the driver’s side muffler isolator from the exhaust hanger. DO NOT CUT THIS ISOLATOR! You need it for the reinstall. But this guy I know told me, if you happen to cut it, the nice people at NAPA have a replacement for about $3. So I hear.
3. Loosen the muffler exhaust clamp from the exhaust tubing and remove the muffler, using a 16 mm socket. This will take some time, but you should be able to wiggle the muffler loose. A little WD 40 will help.
4. Remove from the driver’s side and passenger side four factory sway bar bushing bolts and install the 1” spacers provided with the washers and bolts.
5. Locate the black 4th cross member from the rear of the vehicle. This will be your landmark to measure your cut for the new exhaust. The 4th cross member has the bolts for the evaporation canister and is just in front of the rear lower control arm bracket.
3. Loosen the muffler exhaust clamp from the exhaust tubing and remove the muffler, using a 16 mm socket. This will take some time, but you should be able to wiggle the muffler loose. A little WD 40 will help.
4. Remove from the driver’s side and passenger side four factory sway bar bushing bolts and install the 1” spacers provided with the washers and bolts.
5. Locate the black 4th cross member from the rear of the vehicle. This will be your landmark to measure your cut for the new exhaust. The 4th cross member has the bolts for the evaporation canister and is just in front of the rear lower control arm bracket.
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Mark the exhaust tubing for cutting. The kit came with a 14” muffler, soI needed to mark a line ½” toward the rear of the cross member shown in the picture below. Then add 4” to that measurement. (a total of 4 ½” back from the cross member). If your kit comes with an 18” muffler, only measure ½” back from the cross member.
6. Loosen the factory exhaust clamp, located just below the secondary catalytic converter. This can be difficult, due to the nut securing the clamp being on the top side of the pipe. An open ended wrench helped quite a bit. Remove (DON’T CUT) the remaining two (2) isolators holding the exhaust tubing and remove the exhaust tubing from the jeep. You may need to raise your Jeep using a floor jack on the rear frame if it isn’t lifted to create clearance above the rear axle.
7. Take the exhaust tubing to a work bench and cut the tube at your 4 ½” (or ½” mark if you are using an 18” muffler). I used a Sawzall and a vice, but a pipe cutter, hack saw, or similar tool will work.
6. Loosen the factory exhaust clamp, located just below the secondary catalytic converter. This can be difficult, due to the nut securing the clamp being on the top side of the pipe. An open ended wrench helped quite a bit. Remove (DON’T CUT) the remaining two (2) isolators holding the exhaust tubing and remove the exhaust tubing from the jeep. You may need to raise your Jeep using a floor jack on the rear frame if it isn’t lifted to create clearance above the rear axle.
7. Take the exhaust tubing to a work bench and cut the tube at your 4 ½” (or ½” mark if you are using an 18” muffler). I used a Sawzall and a vice, but a pipe cutter, hack saw, or similar tool will work.
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Deburr the edges.
8. Re-install the newly cut factory exhaust pipe with the clamp removed in Step 6 and the two (2) rubber isolators.
9. Install the new tailpipe section onto the two (2) rear rubber isolators.
10. Place the muffler, orientated as in the picture below, between the two sections of exhaust tubing. Install loosely with the supplied exhaust clamps.
11. Position the muffler so the muffler body is 4 ½” (or ½” for an 18” muffler) behind the cross member mark from step 5. Firm, but do not tighten the frontclamp.
12. Twist the muffler so there is approximately ½” to ¾” space (about a finger width) between the muffler and the floor pan. Firm, but do not tighten the rear clamp.
8. Re-install the newly cut factory exhaust pipe with the clamp removed in Step 6 and the two (2) rubber isolators.
9. Install the new tailpipe section onto the two (2) rear rubber isolators.
10. Place the muffler, orientated as in the picture below, between the two sections of exhaust tubing. Install loosely with the supplied exhaust clamps.
11. Position the muffler so the muffler body is 4 ½” (or ½” for an 18” muffler) behind the cross member mark from step 5. Firm, but do not tighten the frontclamp.
12. Twist the muffler so there is approximately ½” to ¾” space (about a finger width) between the muffler and the floor pan. Firm, but do not tighten the rear clamp.
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13. Twist the tail pipe so there is ½” to ¾” between the tail pipe and the cross member (directly above the rear axle)
14. Align and adjust all parts, and torque the front and rear clamps to 75 lbs.
This install took me about one hour, start to finish, not including the trip to NAPA that didn’t happen, because I didn’t need to replace that isolator. Overall, I am happy with the increased clearance, and the nice throaty sound is cool too. I here are three youtube links for the sound:
Stock - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBj_Ve9nNsQ
No muffler - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JotfXXPQ-IA
Dominion - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7XWoGEqVOU
Hope this helps anyone wishing to install this exhaust. It was pretty simple, and like I said, I am happy with the results.
Charles
14. Align and adjust all parts, and torque the front and rear clamps to 75 lbs.
This install took me about one hour, start to finish, not including the trip to NAPA that didn’t happen, because I didn’t need to replace that isolator. Overall, I am happy with the increased clearance, and the nice throaty sound is cool too. I here are three youtube links for the sound:
Stock - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBj_Ve9nNsQ
No muffler - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JotfXXPQ-IA
Dominion - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7XWoGEqVOU
Hope this helps anyone wishing to install this exhaust. It was pretty simple, and like I said, I am happy with the results.
Charles