I have heard the Harbor Freight "C" will not stand up to the stress.

 

The kit I used was a OEM brand. The C could have been a lil bit bigger, but worked well.

Sent from my Droid

 

Just did the Pro Steer install this weekend. Wish I would've gotten the install kit because my press kit didn't have the correct spacers. I wasted several hours rigging it so I could press in the new joints without damaging...Great write-up!

 

Glad I could help. And I updated my initial thread to stress the importance of having the install kit.

 

I just wanted to clear something up, someone might of mentioned this in this thread but I didn't see it. In the list of tools that are required for this job Bondsy has a 1 1/16 socket listed, for all you first timers out there doing this job and going out to buy some of these tools what you really need is a 1 1/8 socket. Bondsy listed it in his write up correctly but not on his list. It's used to remove the nut on the lower ball joint. Thanks for the great write up it really helped yesterday when I did everything on the front end. I now have around 90k miles on my 08 JK and this is the first time I've done anything major to it other than the 4.5" lift. I know I've read a tonne of comoplaints from people about death wobble and under powered and various other things, but I love my Jeep it's been 100% reliable with moderate to heavy wheeling this year, even did the Rubicon )).

Cheers,

Paul

 

Heck of a nice writeup if I ever get brave enough for that kind of upgrade!

 

Thanks for pointing this out to me. I'll correct it.
The 1 1/8" socket is used to remove the nut on the lower ball joint.
To further clarify the 1 1/16" socket was used for the tierod and draglink.

 

Awesome write up and helped me out heaps doing this install today. Thanks mate!

I also had problems with the axle being off to one side no allowing the tool to sit right. I was on a hoist, to get around this i put the front axle down on stands so the springs sagged to ride hight and centered the axle so for anyone is doing this put the axle stands on the axle not on the rails and you'll be fine.

I also put a seal in between the upper ball joint and the knuckle, Its a U Cup Seal - U16. I cut some V's into the inner lip (pictured) before install to allow grease to pass.

 

Brilliant touch! I notice that the top balljoint is greasable, but not the bottom ball joint? How does the lower ball joint stay lubricated?

 

Thanks! The lower ball joint has a needle type grease point. I bought an adaptor for my grease gun that works perfectly. Pictured



The grease needle snaps via a standard grease nipple, the sleeve you see is hiding the grease nipple. The sleeve helps to keep it all straight when you're using it.