The carrier looks great! Congrats on the install. I want to get one this summer. I'm a little nervous about the install with getting everything to line up, but I don't trust 4 Wheel Parts or other shops around here to do a better job, so I guess I'll have to face my fears.

Can you place a rubber liner on the landing block? I'm thinking like a rubber pad of some sort? Or maybe a small piece of foam pipe insulation on the piece that contacts the landing block? It looks like you can adjust the tension on the lock, so maybe you can set it back a little.

Also, it looks like the tailgate door is opening in the last picture. Is that the pressure on the tailgate door applied from the carrier? Or did you just forget to close it all the way?

 

Hardest part is making sure your right angle (or flexible) drill bit is straight and not off at an angle. A template would be nice, but not absolutely necessary.

I've considered it, just waiting to see what other people have had. I just readjusted it today so it would line up with tension so I don't have to pull up on it to latch it.

It's the angle of the photo. It's closed and flush. I promise. I do already have a small dent from my bottom rubber pad though. Since I'm never taking the carrier off, it doesn't worry me that much. I did grind it down a little today.

 

Dr. McNinja

Coating of landing block is very weak, I have the same problem and it is bigger if the arm of the rack is not well leveled (remember pre-load the rack by adjusting).

I fixed my problem using a home-made mod, putting on the arm of the rack some black electrical tape. Maybe it does not look so nice but it works and you can put it again when you need it. Someone said this carrier does not rattle however I had had some rattle more in on-road than in off-road but every noise disappeared after my mod.

Regarding your carrier the landing block seems is not “landing” on your vehicle, that condition permits water goes inside when it rains or when occasionally your jeep will be washed.

If you have a 2008 JK, you will find after drilled the big hole that space between two layers is less deep than ¼” not ½” like instructions said then spacer ½”x1” is not useful. According with Brent-f70 in his write-up, I used a washer plus a wide o-ring putting RTV silicone to prevent rusty. In this manner my landing block landed on the body of vehicle.

You mentioned that there is a small dent. I can not see if you put on the Stainless Steel Stick Pad but if you did not I recommend do that. In the beginning I did not like the pad but after two trips I felt a small dent on the zone of lower bump-stop, well I decided better to put on the pad and the dent was stopped.

A good trick is put a few quantity of grease on lower bump-stop or on the pad in order to avoid any kind of screech. Other trick is adjusting the length of bumper stabilizer spare tire by cutting or grinding.

I send you some pic´s of my jk, dirty as usual.

JKM

 

Dr McNinja

More pic´s

 

Yeah, I saw how he did it, but I look back at the old Or-Fab threads that showed how they mounted it on their topo skinned jeep, and decided to keep it out like that. They (Or-Fab) claim that it is to compensate for the contour of the body. I did seal around the spacer quite a bit, so I shouldn't have a problem with water getting in.
I like the electrical tape idea, I may have to steal it. I'll probably break down and put the steel pad on as well, but I'll paint it black first.

 

I agree. The spacer should hold the block away from the body. The less things that contact the body the less chance of rubbing paint off or denting. Mine is held off the body and I just siliconed the heck out of the bushing. No part of the landing block touches the paint.

 

Are you saying that the spacer that comes with the Or-Fab (see picture below) that looks like it's too thick is actually intended to be thick so it separates the landing block from the body? Do you just silicon the heck behind the landing block to prevent moisture from getting in between the spacer and the hole in the body?



I'm looking really hard at this tire carrier since it is on my very short list of mods for this summer. I don't really like what I'm seeing with all that rust building up, dented body panels and electrical tape mods. I'd prefer a cleaner install. I also noticed everyone has locks and chains around their gas cans and on their tire carrier. Where do you guys live that you need to keep everything locked up like that?

 

I agree with Rubimon also. the block on mine sets the block away from the body and actualy lets the block swivle to keep lined up with the clamp and the carrier. Sealed with black rtv around the spacer. Mine has been trouble free.
Good Luck!!

 

That would also explain why the rubber isolator on the bottom bar sticks out so much. Some folks have been grinding/sanding it since it dented their door panel. If the block sets further away from the body, it would allow more distance between the lower bar and the door panel.

Capt Scotty, do you have or would you be able to take some close-up pics of the block on your tire carrier?

Thanks.

 

I will try to get some tonight.