So I've decided to install a catch can on my Jeep. After having read numerous threads on this topic, it seems that it might be a good preventative measure to take in slowing down crankcase gas build-up in the intake. The method I used to complete this makes it completely reversible with no permanent modification to the vehicle whatsoever.
This is totally new to me, so if you have any comments or concerns regarding this set up, please let me know (so I can take it off).

Below are a few of the items utilized.
About 4' feet of 3/8" hose, and 4" inches of both 1" and 5/8" hose, along with two connectors and clamps. The main container utilized for the catch can was an air compressor in-line filter/separator with 1/4" inlets.


These quick connects were acquired for $5 at Harbor Freight (I like the blue anodizing).


I removed the internals from the filter (too restrictive).


... and reversed the relief spring on the bottom so that it is closed at all times. To empty the container, you can either remove the clear plastic, or simply press up on the nipple thereby opening the valve.


Here's the final assembly with the hose fittings. On the internal one, about 1/4" was removed from the threaded end so as not to restrict air flow.


After thorough consideration, I located a place for the catch can and fabricated a bracket. There was already an existing hole there, so no drilling was required. (Center of picture, right rear on the battery box).


This was the hardest part of the project, but ultimately not too difficult. Used was a 1" I.D. hose along with a PVC cap. The cap was drilled and a threaded/barbed 3/8" connector attached.


All that was left to do was route the 3/8" hoses and clamp them in place. For the intake, a length of 5/8" hose was utilized with a 3/8" reducer.






You might not be able to tell from the pictures, but the container is well enough away from the engine, and does not contact anything in this location.


We'll see how well this works, if not then I can either upgrade to a better catch-can, or simply remove the whole thing and go back to the OEM system.

 

If you can drain the bottle by pushing up on the bottom fitting, will vacuum in the bottle also open the fitting?

 

Good observation. At idle it doesn't, but perhaps at higher revs it may. Maybe I ought to seal that bottom valve off. I'm also concerned that engine heat might melt the plastic capsule. Perhaps I should just buy a metal one.

 

If it doesn't at idle, it shouldn't at higher power settings. More vacuum at idle.

Engine braking may open it, though.

This may give us an idea how much oil passes through the PCV system.

 

Well, I was able to reverse the entire valve, so now more vacuum = better seal. I'll drive around with it for a week or so & see what happens. So far a two mile trip to the store coated the interior with a thin film of oil.

 

This could be interesting!

 

Yes it could. Subscribed.

 

looks good. Most of the equipment i work on have a similar set-up. Only the separator is filtered and puts the oil back in the pan, and the gas either back in to the intake or exhausted out in to the atmosphere (although with new stricter emissions laws they all recycle the gas back in the engine).

good/clean job on the install though. i'll be watching for results.

 

Used a similar set up on my XJ years ago. I just used an inline plastic fuel filter and replaced it every time I changed the oil.

 

great idea im also going to follow this please keep us posted on the amount of oil you gather if you can try local trips and check then try highway speeds again thats thinking outside the box