Personal Recommendations for the OME LT Kit Install
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis, Indiana
Personal Recommendations for the OME LT Kit Install
Hi for the Last Time This Evening,
This is the third installment in my attempt to share what I learned during the installation of the OME LT kit in my '08 JK 2-door Rubicon.
(Edit) The following are two additional threads which may be helpful. The first one provides a list of the tools that I required: https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modified-jk-tech-2/tool-list-ome-lt-kit-install-80286/. And the second one is a list of the references that I used for my install: https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modified-jk-tech-2/write-up-reference-list-ome-lt-kit-install-80304/
The purpose of this thread is to share some personal recommendations and conclusions that I drew as I worked through the OME LT installation. These may, or may not, apply to your situation. They are provided as-is; but, hopefully they will be of some interest to anyone installing this same kit.
I'll do my best to keep these brief. If you have any questions regarding any of the items, please ask. I'm sure there are many who read this forum that can answer any questions you may have.
1. If part of this installation will involve performing a self-alignment, I would strongly suggest reviewing WayofLife's write-up before beginning any work on your JK and reviewing the parts of the write-up which discuss axle measurements used to set caster. Make sure to record baseline measurements at this point (with your JK parked on level ground). This will give you a good reference point when the time comes to measure the caster angle after the installation of the lift components.
2. Take the time to record the height of your stock JK. Take photos that can be used to show your lift off later. You won't regret taking the time to document before and after conditions.
3. At least one of the write-ups lists the installation of extended brake lines after the replacement of other suspension components. I thought it might be easier to replace the brake lines first. (I don't know that it makes much difference either way.)
4. When considering the flex of the axles, the brake lines aren't the only constraints that I found. Be very careful of not only the ABS wiring; but, also the wiring to the lockers in the front and rear differentials (if you have a Rubicon). I found the information in the following thread to be helpful regarding the ABS lines (JulietKilo) - https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-write-ups-39/get-more-slack-your-brake-sensor-wires-front-end-flex-47613/ (To be honest, I haven't followed the write-up yet... it is on my list for this weekend.) As for the locker wiring, make sure that the clips are removed from any brackets before you drop the axles too low.
5. I found that the brackets provided for the Crown extended brake lines worked great on the right side of the JK (front and rear); but, the hole location in the bracket caused too much stress on the brake lines when I tried to use the bracket mounting hole and the frame clip location. I drilled a hole (of a size to allow the OEM bolt to be used) that basically mirrored the location of the original hole to the opposite side of the bracket for the left front and rear locations. (I believe there may have been some self-tapping screws included in the Crown kit; but, they were pretty small and I thought the additional hole was a better solution.)
6. I wished I would have checked the brake parts closer before I started. I was short one (1) Banjo washer. I was able to refinish one of the used washers so that it was smooth, and re-use it. It was probably a fluke with my kit.
7. I would recommend being very careful during the installation of the front upper control arm bolts and washers (from the outside, through the hole in the inside frame rail, and then through the control arm). It might not be very professional; but, I would consider stuffing a rag into the frame rail (temporarily) that could be used to block any bolts, washers, or sockets from dropping down into the frame rail on each side during the install. I lost a socket into the rail after the installation of the first upper control arm, and if it weren't for a long magnetic pick-up tool, I may still be trying to get that socket out of the rail. (A little tape over the end of the socket extension would have helped to keep the socket on the extension in my case, too.)
8. (Note: This item only applies if you purchased as an option the rear upper adjustable Currie control arms.) The installation of the bolt, washer and flagged nut for each rear upper control arm was one of the more challenging tasks. Because you're basically doing everything blind (i.e. by touch), a great deal of patience is required. (Wayoflife wrote in his write-up: "Getting the bolt to line up with the flagged nut can be quite a challenge but if you go slow and take your time, it can be done." The "quite a challenge" comment was a real understatement. I would recommend that before trying to fasten the control arm to the bolt, washer and flagged nut, that a dry-run be made. I found that by attaching the flagged nut to the bolt (without the control arm), I could mark a reference line on the flagged nut that would show where it should line up with the bottom of the frame. Maybe it's just me; but, it made it a lot easier (and less stressful).
9. The installation of the JKS spring retainers was probably the most challenging task. I used double-sided (edited) transfer tape on one side of each washer (to hold it against the top most inside surface of the spring retainer.
I put a small amount of double-sided contact tape on the top surface of a pry tool that I was able to use to hold the bottom side of the washer as I worked it over the extended threaded surface of the bolt as I held the hex bolt in place from above. (I had also placed tape over the center hole of each washer with a slit in it.
As I pushed the washer up over the bolt, the tape helped to keep the washer in place as I readjusted the pry tool.) Once the washer was in place at top I was able apply some force from below to keep it stuck to the inside of the spring retainer. I then applied some new double-sided contact tape to the top of the pry tool so that I could stick about half of the outside circumference of the Nylonut to the pry tool.
I was then able to position the nut below the hex screw and gently turn the screw until the threads mated-up. I was then able to put some pressure on the nut with the pry tool so that I could tighten it to the point that I knew it was secure. I then removed the pry tool and was able to insert a box, and then an open end wrench into the small opening so that I could hold the nut while the hex screw was turned from above.
10. I bought a vacuum kit that I thought would make bleeding the brakes by myself easy. As it turned out, I never really was all that comfortable with the results. I ended up using the kit twice; but, in the end, I had my wife help me by bleeding them in the traditional manner. (I think if I would have purchased a kit with a bigger vacuum reservoir it may have been easier.) Be careful, too, with brake fluid... it can cause real problems with certain types of paints.
11. The front sway bar links (Currie, I believe) that Northgate provided with the kit never looked quite right. The sway bar was kicked pretty high with the adjustable links installed (even when they were screwed together to be as short as possible). I ended up using the old rear (OEM) links from the rear for the new front links. The other option would have involved cutting the ends off of both threaded rods. (Any comments on this would be appreciated.)
12. The holes through the sway bars must be enlarged for the Currie adjustable sway bar links. I understand that the existing holes are metric and the threaded fasteners on the Currie links are English. If the hole is enlarged to 1/2" diameter, the Curries will clear fine. A 1/2" drill bit and electric drill should work well with the back sway bars. If anyone plans on using the adjustable Curries on the front, enlarging the sway bar holes in the front is a much different challenge. The hole is much deeper, and I believe the metal is harder. I burned up two good quality drill bits trying to enlarge these holes (before I knew that the Currie adjustable links weren't the right length). I finally used a bit attachment on the end of a Dremel tool to enlarge the hole. (Thanks to Schantin in his post https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...ghlight=dremel for this suggestion.) I also used the Dremel tool for the rear sway bar link holes as I had just used it for the front holes; but, the 1/2" drill would have worked well, too.
13. Adjustment of the front upper control arms is still kind of a work in progress with me. As a point of reference, the OEM eye-to-eye distance for the upper control arms is 18-3/4". The Jeep spec for caster is 4.2 degress +/- 0.5 degrees. I took some measurements using the Currier adjustable control arms before installing them. I found that for each four (4) turns of the axle mount attachment point, the length changed by 1/4". I tried to calculate the length of the control arms using some crude measurements and a model. Basically, I calculated that by making the control arms 1/4" shorter on each side, I should see about 1.5 degree greater caster angle (which should put the caster angle between 5.5 and 6 degrees). I set the control arms to 18-1/2" eye-to-eye and then reinstalled them. I did not take the caster angle measurements before starting the lift install, and I wasn't able to get comfortable with the measurements I was reading using the angle finder. I paid a Goodyear dealer to measure the alignment for me. With respect to caster, the readings were 4.1 degrees for the left and 4.2 degrees for the right. The conclusion that I drew from this is that the lift actually reduced the amount of caster (with the length of the control arms set to stock). By shortening the length of the control arms to 18-1/2" for my set-up, the caster was almost dead-nuts stock. I have driven the JK a few evenings around town with no detection of flightiness. I will take it out on the highway this weekend to make sure I feel comfortable with it. David (Northgate) suggest that I only increase the caster more if I don't feel comfortable with the handling. The consensus is that greater caster angle helps the steering; but, it amplifies driveline vibration. So, there must be a happy medium between the two. I will report back if I feel the need to change the caster angle to something greater than 4.1/4.2. The real point I would like to make with this item is that if the eye-to-eye distance is set to 18-1/2", and your stock geometry and the components of your lift are similar to mine, you'll at least be close to the stock caster angle with this as the starting point. (There are many other discussions in this forum about caster angle, driveline vibration, and related topics. Please spend time understanding the implications of adjustment before an exact caster angle is cast in concrete.) Edit on 04/04/09 - I drove the JK, set up as described above, at highway speeds (+80 mph). The tracking was great, and there was not flightiness, even when going over transitions in the road. There was absolutely no wobble. I may have a slight vibration between 70 and 80; but, I never drove the JK that fast before installing the kit, so I don't really think I have a problem. If the vibration gets worse I will report back.
14. The emergency brake cables come from the factory attached to the tub of the JK with two nuts and a wire bracket. Part of the installation write-up states that the two nuts should be removed so that the bracket comes loose and the cables hang free enough to allow the rear axle to drop during spring removal and install. Not much is said in forum threads about reattaching the bracket to the tub after the lift installation is complete. I still have the cables being held in close proximity to one another by the wire bracket; but, I don't have the bracket attached to the tub. I don't think there would be enough travel to allow for much rear suspension flex without damaging the emergency brake cables. If anyone else who reads this concern would care to comment, it might help those installing the kit to do it the right way the first time.
15. Although it is made pretty clear in the WayofLife write-ups; but, it should probably be pointed out that control arm, trackbar, and sway bar fasteners shouldn't be torqued until the JK is sitting with its full weight on the tires on level ground. (It makes it tougher to torque the fasteners; but, it is the right way to torque the suspension.)
I hope this isn't way too much information. I don't believe that I have left out anything. If I remember anything else I will include another message in this thread, or edit this one.
If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. Also, if I have said anything that is wrong, or worded incorrectly, I hope someone will correct me.
If there's anything more that I can do to help, please let me know.
Jeff
This is the third installment in my attempt to share what I learned during the installation of the OME LT kit in my '08 JK 2-door Rubicon.
(Edit) The following are two additional threads which may be helpful. The first one provides a list of the tools that I required: https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modified-jk-tech-2/tool-list-ome-lt-kit-install-80286/. And the second one is a list of the references that I used for my install: https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modified-jk-tech-2/write-up-reference-list-ome-lt-kit-install-80304/
The purpose of this thread is to share some personal recommendations and conclusions that I drew as I worked through the OME LT installation. These may, or may not, apply to your situation. They are provided as-is; but, hopefully they will be of some interest to anyone installing this same kit.
I'll do my best to keep these brief. If you have any questions regarding any of the items, please ask. I'm sure there are many who read this forum that can answer any questions you may have.
1. If part of this installation will involve performing a self-alignment, I would strongly suggest reviewing WayofLife's write-up before beginning any work on your JK and reviewing the parts of the write-up which discuss axle measurements used to set caster. Make sure to record baseline measurements at this point (with your JK parked on level ground). This will give you a good reference point when the time comes to measure the caster angle after the installation of the lift components.
2. Take the time to record the height of your stock JK. Take photos that can be used to show your lift off later. You won't regret taking the time to document before and after conditions.
3. At least one of the write-ups lists the installation of extended brake lines after the replacement of other suspension components. I thought it might be easier to replace the brake lines first. (I don't know that it makes much difference either way.)
4. When considering the flex of the axles, the brake lines aren't the only constraints that I found. Be very careful of not only the ABS wiring; but, also the wiring to the lockers in the front and rear differentials (if you have a Rubicon). I found the information in the following thread to be helpful regarding the ABS lines (JulietKilo) - https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-write-ups-39/get-more-slack-your-brake-sensor-wires-front-end-flex-47613/ (To be honest, I haven't followed the write-up yet... it is on my list for this weekend.) As for the locker wiring, make sure that the clips are removed from any brackets before you drop the axles too low.
5. I found that the brackets provided for the Crown extended brake lines worked great on the right side of the JK (front and rear); but, the hole location in the bracket caused too much stress on the brake lines when I tried to use the bracket mounting hole and the frame clip location. I drilled a hole (of a size to allow the OEM bolt to be used) that basically mirrored the location of the original hole to the opposite side of the bracket for the left front and rear locations. (I believe there may have been some self-tapping screws included in the Crown kit; but, they were pretty small and I thought the additional hole was a better solution.)
6. I wished I would have checked the brake parts closer before I started. I was short one (1) Banjo washer. I was able to refinish one of the used washers so that it was smooth, and re-use it. It was probably a fluke with my kit.
7. I would recommend being very careful during the installation of the front upper control arm bolts and washers (from the outside, through the hole in the inside frame rail, and then through the control arm). It might not be very professional; but, I would consider stuffing a rag into the frame rail (temporarily) that could be used to block any bolts, washers, or sockets from dropping down into the frame rail on each side during the install. I lost a socket into the rail after the installation of the first upper control arm, and if it weren't for a long magnetic pick-up tool, I may still be trying to get that socket out of the rail. (A little tape over the end of the socket extension would have helped to keep the socket on the extension in my case, too.)
8. (Note: This item only applies if you purchased as an option the rear upper adjustable Currie control arms.) The installation of the bolt, washer and flagged nut for each rear upper control arm was one of the more challenging tasks. Because you're basically doing everything blind (i.e. by touch), a great deal of patience is required. (Wayoflife wrote in his write-up: "Getting the bolt to line up with the flagged nut can be quite a challenge but if you go slow and take your time, it can be done." The "quite a challenge" comment was a real understatement. I would recommend that before trying to fasten the control arm to the bolt, washer and flagged nut, that a dry-run be made. I found that by attaching the flagged nut to the bolt (without the control arm), I could mark a reference line on the flagged nut that would show where it should line up with the bottom of the frame. Maybe it's just me; but, it made it a lot easier (and less stressful).
9. The installation of the JKS spring retainers was probably the most challenging task. I used double-sided (edited) transfer tape on one side of each washer (to hold it against the top most inside surface of the spring retainer.
I put a small amount of double-sided contact tape on the top surface of a pry tool that I was able to use to hold the bottom side of the washer as I worked it over the extended threaded surface of the bolt as I held the hex bolt in place from above. (I had also placed tape over the center hole of each washer with a slit in it.
As I pushed the washer up over the bolt, the tape helped to keep the washer in place as I readjusted the pry tool.) Once the washer was in place at top I was able apply some force from below to keep it stuck to the inside of the spring retainer. I then applied some new double-sided contact tape to the top of the pry tool so that I could stick about half of the outside circumference of the Nylonut to the pry tool.
I was then able to position the nut below the hex screw and gently turn the screw until the threads mated-up. I was then able to put some pressure on the nut with the pry tool so that I could tighten it to the point that I knew it was secure. I then removed the pry tool and was able to insert a box, and then an open end wrench into the small opening so that I could hold the nut while the hex screw was turned from above.
10. I bought a vacuum kit that I thought would make bleeding the brakes by myself easy. As it turned out, I never really was all that comfortable with the results. I ended up using the kit twice; but, in the end, I had my wife help me by bleeding them in the traditional manner. (I think if I would have purchased a kit with a bigger vacuum reservoir it may have been easier.) Be careful, too, with brake fluid... it can cause real problems with certain types of paints.
11. The front sway bar links (Currie, I believe) that Northgate provided with the kit never looked quite right. The sway bar was kicked pretty high with the adjustable links installed (even when they were screwed together to be as short as possible). I ended up using the old rear (OEM) links from the rear for the new front links. The other option would have involved cutting the ends off of both threaded rods. (Any comments on this would be appreciated.)
12. The holes through the sway bars must be enlarged for the Currie adjustable sway bar links. I understand that the existing holes are metric and the threaded fasteners on the Currie links are English. If the hole is enlarged to 1/2" diameter, the Curries will clear fine. A 1/2" drill bit and electric drill should work well with the back sway bars. If anyone plans on using the adjustable Curries on the front, enlarging the sway bar holes in the front is a much different challenge. The hole is much deeper, and I believe the metal is harder. I burned up two good quality drill bits trying to enlarge these holes (before I knew that the Currie adjustable links weren't the right length). I finally used a bit attachment on the end of a Dremel tool to enlarge the hole. (Thanks to Schantin in his post https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...ghlight=dremel for this suggestion.) I also used the Dremel tool for the rear sway bar link holes as I had just used it for the front holes; but, the 1/2" drill would have worked well, too.
13. Adjustment of the front upper control arms is still kind of a work in progress with me. As a point of reference, the OEM eye-to-eye distance for the upper control arms is 18-3/4". The Jeep spec for caster is 4.2 degress +/- 0.5 degrees. I took some measurements using the Currier adjustable control arms before installing them. I found that for each four (4) turns of the axle mount attachment point, the length changed by 1/4". I tried to calculate the length of the control arms using some crude measurements and a model. Basically, I calculated that by making the control arms 1/4" shorter on each side, I should see about 1.5 degree greater caster angle (which should put the caster angle between 5.5 and 6 degrees). I set the control arms to 18-1/2" eye-to-eye and then reinstalled them. I did not take the caster angle measurements before starting the lift install, and I wasn't able to get comfortable with the measurements I was reading using the angle finder. I paid a Goodyear dealer to measure the alignment for me. With respect to caster, the readings were 4.1 degrees for the left and 4.2 degrees for the right. The conclusion that I drew from this is that the lift actually reduced the amount of caster (with the length of the control arms set to stock). By shortening the length of the control arms to 18-1/2" for my set-up, the caster was almost dead-nuts stock. I have driven the JK a few evenings around town with no detection of flightiness. I will take it out on the highway this weekend to make sure I feel comfortable with it. David (Northgate) suggest that I only increase the caster more if I don't feel comfortable with the handling. The consensus is that greater caster angle helps the steering; but, it amplifies driveline vibration. So, there must be a happy medium between the two. I will report back if I feel the need to change the caster angle to something greater than 4.1/4.2. The real point I would like to make with this item is that if the eye-to-eye distance is set to 18-1/2", and your stock geometry and the components of your lift are similar to mine, you'll at least be close to the stock caster angle with this as the starting point. (There are many other discussions in this forum about caster angle, driveline vibration, and related topics. Please spend time understanding the implications of adjustment before an exact caster angle is cast in concrete.) Edit on 04/04/09 - I drove the JK, set up as described above, at highway speeds (+80 mph). The tracking was great, and there was not flightiness, even when going over transitions in the road. There was absolutely no wobble. I may have a slight vibration between 70 and 80; but, I never drove the JK that fast before installing the kit, so I don't really think I have a problem. If the vibration gets worse I will report back.
14. The emergency brake cables come from the factory attached to the tub of the JK with two nuts and a wire bracket. Part of the installation write-up states that the two nuts should be removed so that the bracket comes loose and the cables hang free enough to allow the rear axle to drop during spring removal and install. Not much is said in forum threads about reattaching the bracket to the tub after the lift installation is complete. I still have the cables being held in close proximity to one another by the wire bracket; but, I don't have the bracket attached to the tub. I don't think there would be enough travel to allow for much rear suspension flex without damaging the emergency brake cables. If anyone else who reads this concern would care to comment, it might help those installing the kit to do it the right way the first time.
15. Although it is made pretty clear in the WayofLife write-ups; but, it should probably be pointed out that control arm, trackbar, and sway bar fasteners shouldn't be torqued until the JK is sitting with its full weight on the tires on level ground. (It makes it tougher to torque the fasteners; but, it is the right way to torque the suspension.)
I hope this isn't way too much information. I don't believe that I have left out anything. If I remember anything else I will include another message in this thread, or edit this one.
If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. Also, if I have said anything that is wrong, or worded incorrectly, I hope someone will correct me.
If there's anything more that I can do to help, please let me know.
Jeff
Last edited by Jeff09; Apr 10, 2009 at 06:49 AM. Reason: Add Pictures
JK Freak
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 573
Likes: 0
From: Chandler, AZ
Thank you very much for this information. I just got my OME LT kit and I'm ready to install it, but I'm a skier and it snowed 20" overnight, so I had to partake 
. So you have to drill out the rear swaybar to accept the currie adjustable sway bar links? Does anyone else make extended rear sway bar links?
. So you have to drill out the rear swaybar to accept the currie adjustable sway bar links? Does anyone else make extended rear sway bar links?
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
From: GO VOLS!
Thanks again for taking YOUR time and helping others. I finished mine in just over 8hrs of actual work time. I had every tool needed available, and I was even ready to tackle that spring retainer because of your info 
Here is the end result;
Here is the end result;
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis, Indiana
You're All Welcome
Hi Everyone,
I'm glad that what I posted was useful.
I have gone back and added pics of the way the spring retainers were installed. The explanation may have been sufficient; but, I thought pics might help clarify any questions.
Take Care
Jeff
I'm glad that what I posted was useful.
I have gone back and added pics of the way the spring retainers were installed. The explanation may have been sufficient; but, I thought pics might help clarify any questions.
Take Care
Jeff
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis, Indiana
Added Tool List Link and Reference Link
Hi Everyone,
I added a link to the two related threads I started regarding the OME LT lift.
I thought that it might be easier to include the links because this thread was moved to the Write-Ups section.
I hope it helps.
Jeff
I added a link to the two related threads I started regarding the OME LT lift.
I thought that it might be easier to include the links because this thread was moved to the Write-Ups section.
I hope it helps.
Jeff