Roof Rack install: Garage Pro sold by JC Whitney for Unlimited JK
05-30-2010, 07:17 PM
#1
JK Freak
Thread Starter
Roof Rack install: Garage Pro sold by JC Whitney for Unlimited JK
I installed my Garage Pro Roof Rack sold on JC Whitney's site this weekend. See the thread on the lead up to this install here: https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...59#post1661759
Update 2014: REMOVETHIS://onedrive.live.com/view....=WordPdf&wdo=1
This link will take you to a file that shows the measurements I used to cut the holes. There is another link somewhere in this thread but it has since been changed (microsoft went from skydrive to onedrive) so I'm putting it on the front page for future installers. THis is a guide, but may not lead to perfect results, I highly recommend you measure it all out yourself, but with this you'll know you are close.
UPDATE: The N-Dure model seems to have replaced the GaragePro named version. still stupid cheap ($270-320) JK/JKU same as Other brands smittybuilt etc.
REMOVETHIS://www.jcwhitney.com/n-dure-roof-rack/p3060942.jcwx?filterid=d57149y2009
Here is an external to the installation manual which was adequate especially since I went off script:
REMOVETHIShttps://onedrive.live.com/view.aspx?cid=14A746C91304D071&resid=14A746C91304D 071%21211&app=WordPdf&wdo=1
All photos in this write up are available here:
REMOVETHIShttp://s964.photobucket.com/albums/ae123/LindaOrBill/?start=all&mediafilter=images
** See post 28 for shots of Off Road Lights now installed **
Overall rating for stock JK Owners A-/B+ due to the labor involved; for those with appropriate aftermarket rear bumpers A+. it fulfills every requirement most owners have, except for those tent guys probably.
Afterthought: If you are thinking about installing this rack, it is probably still cheaper to buy this rack (at around $400 AND an aftermarket bumper (4-500?) then just buying some of the other racks out there with less functionality and the install would be cake.
The Good:
Excellent packaging
Excellent finish
Sturdy 2"OD Steel all the way around except removable intermediary bars.
Majority of parts were well fitted (two holes needed minor redrilling)
According to the manual it supports 350lbs, 100 more then the website advertises.
All tops Hard/soft sustain all OEM functionality. (putting the soft top full down is no walk in the park)
6 Light tabs with wire access holes built in: 4 in front, 2 in rear.
Price point (~$400)
The bad (or inconvenient at least):
The rear tow hook must be removed and cannot be reinstalled.
Initially, the bar howled without bungee cords or similar lightly coiled on the front bar. But I recently took them off (SEP2010) and it is howl free now at least with the top down. Go figure.
Header wind noise is tolerable, though I may investigate an air dam nonetheless (there is none with top pulled back)
The wire access hole for the light bar tab is a bear to hit.
Stock rear bumper owners that want to frame mount have to be very careful with measuring and cutting as you will see below.
Putting the top all the way down and up is a tight squeeze and requires some fancy moves but it works!!!!
The knobs for the removable rails are crap (plastic knob trying to hold a nylock nut). I replaced them with stainless steel 8-1.25 wingnuts. Much gooder
Install notes:
The rear cross bar with the light tabs must be installed with the tabs and bolts sticking out to the rear otherwise the tabs/bolt threads foul the soft top going down. to fix this quickly, my bar is now upside down in the back as I just rotated it 180 to get the clearance and the tabs are on the bottom facing out, which I don't mind actually.
I mounted my front light bar with the tabs to the rear-on top (as indicated in instructions but their photos are opposite) and that works fine.
You will have extra hardware when you are done.
Once you set the rear legs, toss on the rear corner verticals and install the Rubber Bumpers before attaching the rest of the rack, these can not be installed with the rack in place.
Prewire the light bars if you ever intend to run lights.
The side bumper brackets are not reuseable
Attaching the rear mount frame brackets (with the bumper in place) requires a ton of patience and help. There is very little room to wiggle fingers and get bolts in to the bolt plate. BUT it can be done.
After a test fit, my front windshield driver side hinge plate bracket broke inside the jeeps A pillar. I suspect crappy DC welding is the cause. I had a heck of a time getting the upper windshield frame bolts to take as a result. This is not a flaw in the rack's design, but the Jeeps. no problems on passenger side.
The install took me the better part of an entire day. I took my time, always looked before leaping, measured 4 times, cut once so I did it right. but allocate 9-12 hours if you want a sharp looking finished product.
Okay so here it goes:
Package arrived like this, 2 boxes:
Inside I found this:
The weld quality is superb IMO:
You have 2 install options for the rear:
I highly recommend Prewiring the light bar before install if you have any intention of installing lights ever.
Check for any flaws, This hole wasn't quite drilled out all the way. It popped out the second I hit it with a drill:
Pre Check all fits, this hole did not quite line up right and need a redrill - this was done once in place.
THE REALLY HARD PART FOR STOCK BUMPERS:
Measure Measure Measure: The square transfer method worked best after I traced the lines of the rear fender, body, license plate frame whatever I could reference off of on to the bumper plastic using an etcher and using the geometry of parallel lines.
Under bumper access cut away lines I ended up cutting down lower, to get the angle necessary to slide the tube through the top hole.
After cutting here is how everything came together:
Looking up from underneath, you can see there is essentially no space between the bumper and the rear frame box, you need to have someone hold the bumper off this opening as much as possible while you preset the bolts to the frame and attached the bolt plate included in the kit. I found it easiest to put the bolts through both holes first then bring the plate to the bolt head.
tightened down
rough in:
I used 2" to 3" PVC reducer (in black rubber) to act as a final trim finish where I cut the hole, it also acted as a paint protector when I was moving everything around. Honestly I hit those hole locations so well I really didn't need it, but thought it looked cool.
Once the rear is installed the really hard part is over.
Next the PITA part.
Take your pre Wired light bar and fish the wire in to the driver side brace. (I don't know if the passenger brace has a wire feed, the driver on mine did. This hole is really hard to hit, I used spyderwire fishing line and a small socket to get through first, then tied the wire to it and pulled it through. I used heavy gauge double insulated solid copper wire which made it really hard to flex, but that hole is sharp on the edges and in a curve. It will shred your insulation or break the wire if the wire is weak.
Once I got the two pieces near each other (wire pulled through completely) I preassembled them and then had a helper hold it up while I bolted the driver brace to the Jeep.
Once that is done just start adding sections with a very loose fit. I ended up having the whole outer frame section assembled out to the rear supports. Lifted the rack on both sides with a helper and dropped it onthe rear supports. Then I added the additional cross braces, tightened them up first to hold the rack square. then tightened the rest of the rack up.
here is the finished product:
Interesting note on JC Whitney customer service: They 'double' charged me the 'excess freight fee' or whatever you call it ($65) because the package was shipped in 2 rather large boxes. They quickly waived the second charge with a phone call to their help desk since the online invoice didn't come up that way. They made it right with no hassles.
Update 2014: REMOVETHIS://onedrive.live.com/view....=WordPdf&wdo=1
This link will take you to a file that shows the measurements I used to cut the holes. There is another link somewhere in this thread but it has since been changed (microsoft went from skydrive to onedrive) so I'm putting it on the front page for future installers. THis is a guide, but may not lead to perfect results, I highly recommend you measure it all out yourself, but with this you'll know you are close.
UPDATE: The N-Dure model seems to have replaced the GaragePro named version. still stupid cheap ($270-320) JK/JKU same as Other brands smittybuilt etc.
REMOVETHIS://www.jcwhitney.com/n-dure-roof-rack/p3060942.jcwx?filterid=d57149y2009
Here is an external to the installation manual which was adequate especially since I went off script:
REMOVETHIShttps://onedrive.live.com/view.aspx?cid=14A746C91304D071&resid=14A746C91304D 071%21211&app=WordPdf&wdo=1
All photos in this write up are available here:
REMOVETHIShttp://s964.photobucket.com/albums/ae123/LindaOrBill/?start=all&mediafilter=images
** See post 28 for shots of Off Road Lights now installed **
Overall rating for stock JK Owners A-/B+ due to the labor involved; for those with appropriate aftermarket rear bumpers A+. it fulfills every requirement most owners have, except for those tent guys probably.
Afterthought: If you are thinking about installing this rack, it is probably still cheaper to buy this rack (at around $400 AND an aftermarket bumper (4-500?) then just buying some of the other racks out there with less functionality and the install would be cake.
The Good:
Excellent packaging
Excellent finish
Sturdy 2"OD Steel all the way around except removable intermediary bars.
Majority of parts were well fitted (two holes needed minor redrilling)
According to the manual it supports 350lbs, 100 more then the website advertises.
All tops Hard/soft sustain all OEM functionality. (putting the soft top full down is no walk in the park)
6 Light tabs with wire access holes built in: 4 in front, 2 in rear.
Price point (~$400)
The bad (or inconvenient at least):
The rear tow hook must be removed and cannot be reinstalled.
Initially, the bar howled without bungee cords or similar lightly coiled on the front bar. But I recently took them off (SEP2010) and it is howl free now at least with the top down. Go figure.
Header wind noise is tolerable, though I may investigate an air dam nonetheless (there is none with top pulled back)
The wire access hole for the light bar tab is a bear to hit.
Stock rear bumper owners that want to frame mount have to be very careful with measuring and cutting as you will see below.
Putting the top all the way down and up is a tight squeeze and requires some fancy moves but it works!!!!
The knobs for the removable rails are crap (plastic knob trying to hold a nylock nut). I replaced them with stainless steel 8-1.25 wingnuts. Much gooder
Install notes:
The rear cross bar with the light tabs must be installed with the tabs and bolts sticking out to the rear otherwise the tabs/bolt threads foul the soft top going down. to fix this quickly, my bar is now upside down in the back as I just rotated it 180 to get the clearance and the tabs are on the bottom facing out, which I don't mind actually.
I mounted my front light bar with the tabs to the rear-on top (as indicated in instructions but their photos are opposite) and that works fine.
You will have extra hardware when you are done.
Once you set the rear legs, toss on the rear corner verticals and install the Rubber Bumpers before attaching the rest of the rack, these can not be installed with the rack in place.
Prewire the light bars if you ever intend to run lights.
The side bumper brackets are not reuseable
Attaching the rear mount frame brackets (with the bumper in place) requires a ton of patience and help. There is very little room to wiggle fingers and get bolts in to the bolt plate. BUT it can be done.
After a test fit, my front windshield driver side hinge plate bracket broke inside the jeeps A pillar. I suspect crappy DC welding is the cause. I had a heck of a time getting the upper windshield frame bolts to take as a result. This is not a flaw in the rack's design, but the Jeeps. no problems on passenger side.
The install took me the better part of an entire day. I took my time, always looked before leaping, measured 4 times, cut once so I did it right. but allocate 9-12 hours if you want a sharp looking finished product.
Okay so here it goes:
Package arrived like this, 2 boxes:
Inside I found this:
The weld quality is superb IMO:
You have 2 install options for the rear:
I highly recommend Prewiring the light bar before install if you have any intention of installing lights ever.
Check for any flaws, This hole wasn't quite drilled out all the way. It popped out the second I hit it with a drill:
Pre Check all fits, this hole did not quite line up right and need a redrill - this was done once in place.
THE REALLY HARD PART FOR STOCK BUMPERS:
Measure Measure Measure: The square transfer method worked best after I traced the lines of the rear fender, body, license plate frame whatever I could reference off of on to the bumper plastic using an etcher and using the geometry of parallel lines.
Under bumper access cut away lines I ended up cutting down lower, to get the angle necessary to slide the tube through the top hole.
After cutting here is how everything came together:
Looking up from underneath, you can see there is essentially no space between the bumper and the rear frame box, you need to have someone hold the bumper off this opening as much as possible while you preset the bolts to the frame and attached the bolt plate included in the kit. I found it easiest to put the bolts through both holes first then bring the plate to the bolt head.
tightened down
rough in:
I used 2" to 3" PVC reducer (in black rubber) to act as a final trim finish where I cut the hole, it also acted as a paint protector when I was moving everything around. Honestly I hit those hole locations so well I really didn't need it, but thought it looked cool.
Once the rear is installed the really hard part is over.
Next the PITA part.
Take your pre Wired light bar and fish the wire in to the driver side brace. (I don't know if the passenger brace has a wire feed, the driver on mine did. This hole is really hard to hit, I used spyderwire fishing line and a small socket to get through first, then tied the wire to it and pulled it through. I used heavy gauge double insulated solid copper wire which made it really hard to flex, but that hole is sharp on the edges and in a curve. It will shred your insulation or break the wire if the wire is weak.
Once I got the two pieces near each other (wire pulled through completely) I preassembled them and then had a helper hold it up while I bolted the driver brace to the Jeep.
Once that is done just start adding sections with a very loose fit. I ended up having the whole outer frame section assembled out to the rear supports. Lifted the rack on both sides with a helper and dropped it onthe rear supports. Then I added the additional cross braces, tightened them up first to hold the rack square. then tightened the rest of the rack up.
here is the finished product:
Interesting note on JC Whitney customer service: They 'double' charged me the 'excess freight fee' or whatever you call it ($65) because the package was shipped in 2 rather large boxes. They quickly waived the second charge with a phone call to their help desk since the online invoice didn't come up that way. They made it right with no hassles.
Last edited by Phantasm; 03-13-2014 at 01:41 PM.
Garage Pro
06-01-2010, 09:45 AM
#6
JK Super Freak
Just a small question Why would a rear tow hook not work, but a hitch does - right ?
Last edited by westchester; 06-01-2010 at 09:59 AM.
06-01-2010, 07:42 PM
#7
JK Super Freak
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,228
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Wow, looks great but add me to the list of folks saying NO WAY could I get that rack installed and looking that good. 
Hope you are loving it and you should be impressed with yourself have one of these 
I'm drinking one for you after seeing those pics hell, I'm wiped out for you.
Hope you are loving it and you should be impressed with yourself have one of these I'm drinking one for you after seeing those pics hell, I'm wiped out for you.
