Roof Rack Write up on Hard Top
JK Super Freak
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 0
From: Columbia SC
That is an absolutely awesome write up. For some reason, I never really thought about a roof rack rail system for the JK hardtop. It will be very popular amongst the people needing more cargo space.
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 456
Likes: 0
From: Edison NJ
Hey All
Sorry Havent Been around- Between looking for a new Job-Taking care of my 9 month old with another one on the way I've been so Busy.
Weight- As long as the weight is somewhat distributed evenly I had up to 150lbs with no issues- 3- 50lb duffle bags.
The rack that I have on there has rails on the bottom to support some of the weight so that helps alot
Mike
Sorry Havent Been around- Between looking for a new Job-Taking care of my 9 month old with another one on the way I've been so Busy.
Weight- As long as the weight is somewhat distributed evenly I had up to 150lbs with no issues- 3- 50lb duffle bags.
The rack that I have on there has rails on the bottom to support some of the weight so that helps alot
Mike
JK Super Freak
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,595
Likes: 0
From: Rhode Island
Well, I know this. I setup a yakima rail setup, utilizing both the back and the front of the freedom tops (by cutting the rails before installing)...
I have a 16' Tarpon 160I SOT Kayak, weighing in at 65 lbs. For me to reasonably self-load it using an outrigger bar, I needed to utilize both the front and the rear of the hard top for mounting the saddles. (Need at least 4' of distance between the saddles to effectively pivot on the outrigger - otherwise, I'd have to just dead-lift onto both saddles at once, due to length of boat.)
It holds the weight ok, when sitting still. Touch the boat, or hit a big bump, and it wobbles vertically, badly. Enough so that I thought it was going to come in through the roof while driving on the beach. The roof flexes under the weight, and it only seems to get worse as the top heats up. I imagine it might be different carrying a load that's well distributed across the top, but a long (hanging off a few feet off the back and almost even with the hood up-front), wind-catching load is not well-suited for support by anything but the very ends of the top. (If your main load-bearing points are the very rear apex or the very front apex [a' la "foam blocks" and a hitch riser], you'll be ok, but attempting to bear this load across a line down the interior of the top [as you do with a single kayak loaded] does not seem to be a very good idea, from experience.)
Unfortunately, after the first trip hauling the kayak in this manner, I went and put a crack down the side of the hard top (unrelated to the kayak or the rack - I hit a tree with my doors off), and now I have no faith in the top's ability to hold anything.
!c
I have a 16' Tarpon 160I SOT Kayak, weighing in at 65 lbs. For me to reasonably self-load it using an outrigger bar, I needed to utilize both the front and the rear of the hard top for mounting the saddles. (Need at least 4' of distance between the saddles to effectively pivot on the outrigger - otherwise, I'd have to just dead-lift onto both saddles at once, due to length of boat.)
It holds the weight ok, when sitting still. Touch the boat, or hit a big bump, and it wobbles vertically, badly. Enough so that I thought it was going to come in through the roof while driving on the beach. The roof flexes under the weight, and it only seems to get worse as the top heats up. I imagine it might be different carrying a load that's well distributed across the top, but a long (hanging off a few feet off the back and almost even with the hood up-front), wind-catching load is not well-suited for support by anything but the very ends of the top. (If your main load-bearing points are the very rear apex or the very front apex [a' la "foam blocks" and a hitch riser], you'll be ok, but attempting to bear this load across a line down the interior of the top [as you do with a single kayak loaded] does not seem to be a very good idea, from experience.)
Unfortunately, after the first trip hauling the kayak in this manner, I went and put a crack down the side of the hard top (unrelated to the kayak or the rack - I hit a tree with my doors off), and now I have no faith in the top's ability to hold anything.
!c
I know this was a long time ago when you posted.. but, what rack did you have up there and how was it mounted. Pictures would be nice. Your the first person I've heard this from. Was it on a 2 door or 4 door.
I have a track rack and 4'x5' basket on mine. My top+ accessories weigh between 150-200lbs. I've had more than 200lbs in the basket. I've hauled 2 12.5' kayaks.. I've experianced no problems with it at all.
I did install my tracks slightly differently then shown on here. I moved inward enough to get the bolts out of the double wall and going through the pinch seam. This makes it a little more secure because the double wall can collapse if the bolt is overtightened even a little bit.. or when the rack gets lifted up on by wind lifting the yaks or trees hitting it.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 199
Likes: 1
From: Cleveland, TN
I have two questions:
You guys were discussing removal of the hard top earlier in reference to the added weight of the rack. Do you think it would be safe to remove the top using a lift attached to the rack? I know the rack is designed to support weight in the downward direction. It looks to me like you could lift the rack upward and it should support the same load. I know the hard top weighs less than 150lbs. What do you think, anyone?
Sgt. P, where did you find the ramp for you dog. I have three lazy dogs that would love to have one too. The make and model would be great if you have it. Thanks in advance...
David
You guys were discussing removal of the hard top earlier in reference to the added weight of the rack. Do you think it would be safe to remove the top using a lift attached to the rack? I know the rack is designed to support weight in the downward direction. It looks to me like you could lift the rack upward and it should support the same load. I know the hard top weighs less than 150lbs. What do you think, anyone?
Sgt. P, where did you find the ramp for you dog. I have three lazy dogs that would love to have one too. The make and model would be great if you have it. Thanks in advance...
David
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 199
Likes: 1
From: Cleveland, TN
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 457
Likes: 3
From: Myrtle Beach, SC
I got it years ago at PetSmart for around $100. And, although I thought it was expensive at the time, it's been worth every dime!
http://www.petsmart.com/product/inde...ductId=2755186
I've also seen them in catalogs (Sportsmans Guide, etc.)
I hope that helps...
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 199
Likes: 1
From: Cleveland, TN
I got it years ago at PetSmart for around $100. And, although I thought it was expensive at the time, it's been worth every dime!
http://www.petsmart.com/product/inde...ductId=2755186
I've also seen them in catalogs (Sportsmans Guide, etc.)
I hope that helps...
http://www.petsmart.com/product/inde...ductId=2755186
I've also seen them in catalogs (Sportsmans Guide, etc.)
I hope that helps...
David
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 348
Likes: 0
From: Harrisonburg, Virginia
This is just an idea
do they make a stationary cross bar mount?
I know that for four doors, i dont want the rack to extend over the freedom top cause that just prohibits the use of them. If you took a stationary mount and screwed that through the roof for the rear cross bar and then used the gutter mount over the back doors for the front cross bar. Would this work or help with weight? at least with this method you could get some use of the wider/skinnier without buying a track and putting screwholes all over the place
do they make a stationary cross bar mount?
I know that for four doors, i dont want the rack to extend over the freedom top cause that just prohibits the use of them. If you took a stationary mount and screwed that through the roof for the rear cross bar and then used the gutter mount over the back doors for the front cross bar. Would this work or help with weight? at least with this method you could get some use of the wider/skinnier without buying a track and putting screwholes all over the place
JK Super Freak
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,595
Likes: 0
From: Rhode Island
This is just an idea
do they make a stationary cross bar mount?
I know that for four doors, i dont want the rack to extend over the freedom top cause that just prohibits the use of them. If you took a stationary mount and screwed that through the roof for the rear cross bar and then used the gutter mount over the back doors for the front cross bar. Would this work or help with weight? at least with this method you could get some use of the wider/skinnier without buying a track and putting screwholes all over the place
do they make a stationary cross bar mount?
I know that for four doors, i dont want the rack to extend over the freedom top cause that just prohibits the use of them. If you took a stationary mount and screwed that through the roof for the rear cross bar and then used the gutter mount over the back doors for the front cross bar. Would this work or help with weight? at least with this method you could get some use of the wider/skinnier without buying a track and putting screwholes all over the place
Either Thule or Yakima or both make a bolt on gutter for mounting gutter mount racks. Mounts to the top or to the sides. I've seen both types on Jeeps.