This weekend I'll be putting my buddy's springs and shocks from his 2011 Rubicon JKU into my 2012 Sport S JKU. I've looked for, but cannot find, a write-up like this. Anybody have advice on the sizes of sockets we'll need, what we need to loosen (track bar, sway bars), etc, or just a good write-up to point to?

I figure I'll download instructions for installing a coil lift with shocks, since that process is similar to what we'll be doing. Just thought I'd put this out there in case anyone has advice. Thanks.

 

I had a friend of mine that owns a shop help me so I could use his lift. We only disconnected the shocks and sway bars to put the springs in. With his power tools, he took care of all four springs in about 45 minutes.

 

Thanks! We've got 4 jack stands and 2 floor jacks, so we should be good to go.

 

I did this a year ago on my Sport. I followed the instructions on Project-JK for installing the OME 2" lift at Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource » Old Man Emu Jeep JK Wrangler 2″ Lift Installation Write-Up. Basically skip the steps for the parts you don't have (e.g. coil spacers). I was able to do it without disconnect either my front or rear track bars. Do watch out for the brake lines, you'll have to detach them from the frame to get enough play to push the axle down on each side to get the springs out/in. It took me 6 hours by myself (first time doing any suspension work) so I was pretty anal about knowing what the next step was and not wanting to screw up due to stupidity.

 

A bottle jack, or even the stock scissor jack, placed on top of the axle and jacked up against the frame will help push the axle low enough to easily remove and replace the springs. Make sure to torque everything on the ground under the full weight of the jeep.

 

Great tips, really appreciate it. 7 hours to go and counting, and I'm still reading that link on the 2" OME lift install

 

Yup at the very least loosen then retighten the track bar once the jeep is sitting on the new springs. This will help with any potential flightiness. I gained almost 2" going from 16 to 19 up front and 56 to 59 in the rear. That with my flats worked perfect for my 33s.

 

Using the OME 2" lift thread was perfect. It took longer than I planned for, but I understand the suspension so much better now and l'll be more prepared if something ever breaks.

The ride is noticeably better, probably due more to the red air shocks rather than slightly stiffer springs. There is less roll when turning or braking, and potholes and speed bumps just seem less irritating.

 

I got shocks and springs sitting in my shed and bout to pick up a leveling kit then I'm gonna have to break down and get to work

 

I found it necessary to remove the brake line brackets not just from the front frame rail, but also where the control arm bracket attaches to the axle.

You unscrew one side and the other side slides out from a tongue and slot setup. This relieved all potential pressure from the brake lines when trying to achieve full flex to get the springs in and out.

Just make sure to reattach the lower brake line bracket before hooking up your new shocks, or else you'll have to take the bolt out of the shock lower and make room to do it afterwards.