Stock AirBox, Water Spray Shield Redux
Hi,
Don't you run into airflow starvation issues from chocking that area down, especailly at WOT (wide Open Throttle?).
That is why I ditched my first "S" sheild cover of the airhorn as I noticed air starvation-lack-loss of performance at WOT.
Don't you run into airflow starvation issues from chocking that area down, especailly at WOT (wide Open Throttle?).
That is why I ditched my first "S" sheild cover of the airhorn as I noticed air starvation-lack-loss of performance at WOT.
I've seen this in action and for what myself and rnjstel do as far as wheeling this is a good cost effective short term solution. I'm saving up some money for a snorkel but for anybody that doesn't do alot of deep water crossings this is a very good simple solution
I think I would be more worried about this mod starving my engine of air than I am the occasional splash.
YOU GUYS are having trouble with spray??? These pics are what my Jeep LOVES...Ha...y'all must be hitting some hard-core water, I would just get a snorkel if it's that bad.

YOU GUYS are having trouble with spray??? These pics are what my Jeep LOVES...Ha...y'all must be hitting some hard-core water, I would just get a snorkel if it's that bad.

I used the fan switch trick on my ATV. Works great when you're in the deep stuff.
As far as the fan, you guys do realize it is a a fan on engine coolant temperature switch and does not run 100% of the time anyway.
It only runs when the coolant reaches around 210F then turns off around 180F or so. Or, when the A/C clutch is pulled in.
You spray from your FEAD (front end accessory drive) belt or, the "serpentine" belt.
You would need to be in the temperature parameter for its operation when you hit the water, even then it is a puller type fan in a shroud so the water spray is pulled horizontally .
You can not disconnect your FEAD belt and it will always spray upwards and outwards into the hood allowing water to follow the contour of the hood and subsequently injest into the stock box.
If you think a snorkel is better or two pigs wrapped in a silk dress strapped to your hood is better, then knock yourself out. At the end of the day a Snorkel is better for deep fording no matter what. However for about 12 bucks of material and 20 minutes of fabrication I stopped my airbox from injesting water for the type of wheeling I do. Since I am not going to be fording above my airbox anyway, the snorkel is a waste for me.
Anyway like I said, I came damn close to hydrolocking my motor in a not too deep mud pit (that I have blasted through many times before). That being said, take the idea or leave it. However, its insurance that I like to know I have.
It only runs when the coolant reaches around 210F then turns off around 180F or so. Or, when the A/C clutch is pulled in.
You spray from your FEAD (front end accessory drive) belt or, the "serpentine" belt.
You would need to be in the temperature parameter for its operation when you hit the water, even then it is a puller type fan in a shroud so the water spray is pulled horizontally .
You can not disconnect your FEAD belt and it will always spray upwards and outwards into the hood allowing water to follow the contour of the hood and subsequently injest into the stock box.
If you think a snorkel is better or two pigs wrapped in a silk dress strapped to your hood is better, then knock yourself out. At the end of the day a Snorkel is better for deep fording no matter what. However for about 12 bucks of material and 20 minutes of fabrication I stopped my airbox from injesting water for the type of wheeling I do. Since I am not going to be fording above my airbox anyway, the snorkel is a waste for me.
Anyway like I said, I came damn close to hydrolocking my motor in a not too deep mud pit (that I have blasted through many times before). That being said, take the idea or leave it. However, its insurance that I like to know I have.


