Tailgate Camping table DIY
Ok this is my first attempt at a new thread with pictures, so hang in there. I have looked into purchasing a tail gate table for my JK but I just can't justify the $280. on up price tags on some of these models, so I made my own.

I started with aluminum sheet from old street signs to keep the build light weight.


I measured the space of the tail gate with enough room to clear the sub-woofer and the max width is 26" across. I chose 13" for the height. The tray table measures out at 24 1/2 wide by 12" . Draw your lay out lines for the 24 1/2 x 12" these will be the fold lines then draw a line 1" wider all the way around, these will be the sides. I didn't get a good picture of the actual layout but you need to leave enough of the 1" strip going 2" past the outside line, this will allow for a boxed corner which will be very strong.


Use a jig saw with metal cutting blade to make your cuts in the aluminum sheets, take your time for nice straight cuts. To fold the aluminum into shape I used my workbench with a piece of angle iron over one edge then laid the aluminum sheet over the angle iron on the layout line. I then took a piece of steel bar stock and placed that on top of the aluminum on the layout line and clamped a 2x4 over the top to the bench.
I started with aluminum sheet from old street signs to keep the build light weight.
Use a jig saw with metal cutting blade to make your cuts in the aluminum sheets, take your time for nice straight cuts. To fold the aluminum into shape I used my workbench with a piece of angle iron over one edge then laid the aluminum sheet over the angle iron on the layout line. I then took a piece of steel bar stock and placed that on top of the aluminum on the layout line and clamped a 2x4 over the top to the bench.
Once you have the table section bent and formed clamp and drill and set pop rivets on the two corners of the long side. Then lay out the hinge bars on thicker aluminum sheet for strength.(this was also from a street sign) these measure 4"x1" long.


Cut these out sand them with a disc sander then rivet these on the two corners. Lay out 2 pieces 13" x 8". Draw a fold line on the length of the stock 1 1/8" from the edge. Cut and fold these 90 deg. then sand the edges smooth. These will be the side supports.

Next lay out and cut the lid or table supports from the thicker aluminum stock. Draw the radius ends with a 1"circle template or compass. These measure 1" w x 9" long The holes are 8 1/4" center to center.

Attach these table support bars together using a 16 d nail cut short, heat up the end without the head them hammer it flat but not to tight or the bars will not open freely. All the spacers, nuts, bolts and hardware was just stuff I had in my shop and is too much to list here so you will have to experiment a bit like I did.

Attach a back panel of aluminum sheet and pop rivet this in place. Check to make sure the table closes and opens freely. when I cut out my back panel I cut out a 3" long x 1" long tab on the top edge of the back panel to be used as the locking mechanism.
Cut these out sand them with a disc sander then rivet these on the two corners. Lay out 2 pieces 13" x 8". Draw a fold line on the length of the stock 1 1/8" from the edge. Cut and fold these 90 deg. then sand the edges smooth. These will be the side supports.
Next lay out and cut the lid or table supports from the thicker aluminum stock. Draw the radius ends with a 1"circle template or compass. These measure 1" w x 9" long The holes are 8 1/4" center to center.
Attach these table support bars together using a 16 d nail cut short, heat up the end without the head them hammer it flat but not to tight or the bars will not open freely. All the spacers, nuts, bolts and hardware was just stuff I had in my shop and is too much to list here so you will have to experiment a bit like I did.
Attach a back panel of aluminum sheet and pop rivet this in place. Check to make sure the table closes and opens freely. when I cut out my back panel I cut out a 3" long x 1" long tab on the top edge of the back panel to be used as the locking mechanism.
Once your Back panel is fastened and everything seems to be operational go ahead and clean the table and give it about 3 coats of your favorite color. I chose black to match my Jeep.



Once the paint dried, I attached the Smitty built G.E.A.R door panel to the outside table surface using small washers and pop rivets.


I used a butterfly screw, (the kind with the bolt attached) and a bar nut for the lid catch, ok for know but I might change this. Now the table is ready to install on your Jeep. Remove the plastic trim on the tailgate, pre-drill 6 mounting holes on the back panel of the table, the position the table to the furthest right of the gate, this will allow 26" of space as not to hit the sub-woofer. Transfer your marks to the Jeep tail gate, then pre-drill your holes and fasten using sheet metal screws or nut-serts.
Once the paint dried, I attached the Smitty built G.E.A.R door panel to the outside table surface using small washers and pop rivets.
I used a butterfly screw, (the kind with the bolt attached) and a bar nut for the lid catch, ok for know but I might change this. Now the table is ready to install on your Jeep. Remove the plastic trim on the tailgate, pre-drill 6 mounting holes on the back panel of the table, the position the table to the furthest right of the gate, this will allow 26" of space as not to hit the sub-woofer. Transfer your marks to the Jeep tail gate, then pre-drill your holes and fasten using sheet metal screws or nut-serts.
Hey. Thanks for the write up and pictures! This is a great idea. Most of the tables you see don't have the GEAR panel. This will be perfect for me since I have the same set up.
Do you happen to have any pictures of it open with the panel? I am just curious about the pouches and such hanging?
How do you think its going to hold up with the weight of the pouches and the items in them?
Do you happen to have any pictures of it open with the panel? I am just curious about the pouches and such hanging?
How do you think its going to hold up with the weight of the pouches and the items in them?
Hey. Thanks for the write up and pictures! This is a great idea. Most of the tables you see don't have the GEAR panel. This will be perfect for me since I have the same set up.
Do you happen to have any pictures of it open with the panel? I am just curious about the pouches and such hanging?
How do you think its going to hold up with the weight of the pouches and the items in them?
Do you happen to have any pictures of it open with the panel? I am just curious about the pouches and such hanging?
How do you think its going to hold up with the weight of the pouches and the items in them?
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Originally Posted by Big Vic
You know after posting all these pics then I realized.. I need Pictures of the thing in use! I will post some up tomorrow. I designed it really for my collman stove, or hand tools when im working on the jeep.


