Tailgate shock project Done!!
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
From: Italy
Nothing to thank for. 
Your kit is well made and thought over, can't beat it for the price! Here the shock alone would cost more than your kit!
The bar you bolt to the tailgate is essential in distributing the load as we discussed early in this thread.
If I like a product I recommend it. My dealer has your address and is thinking 'bout installing your kit as an option on new Jeeps, don't know if he contacted you yet...
It took me 'bout 45 min. to install 'cause knowing me I measured everything 3 times. hold in place, check etc. before drilling. Easy Job to do and the result is strong.
Your kit is well made and thought over, can't beat it for the price! Here the shock alone would cost more than your kit!
The bar you bolt to the tailgate is essential in distributing the load as we discussed early in this thread.
If I like a product I recommend it. My dealer has your address and is thinking 'bout installing your kit as an option on new Jeeps, don't know if he contacted you yet...
It took me 'bout 45 min. to install 'cause knowing me I measured everything 3 times. hold in place, check etc. before drilling. Easy Job to do and the result is strong.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore MD
Just ordered the Woods kit for both the hood and rear gate. With two antennas on the spare tire mount I need the door to stay open when the window is up.
Nothing to thank for.
Your kit is well made and thought over, can't beat it for the price! Here the shock alone would cost more than your kit!
The bar you bolt to the tailgate is essential in distributing the load as we discussed early in this thread.
If I like a product I recommend it. My dealer has your address and is thinking 'bout installing your kit as an option on new Jeeps, don't know if he contacted you yet...
It took me 'bout 45 min. to install 'cause knowing me I measured everything 3 times. hold in place, check etc. before drilling. Easy Job to do and the result is strong.
Your kit is well made and thought over, can't beat it for the price! Here the shock alone would cost more than your kit!
The bar you bolt to the tailgate is essential in distributing the load as we discussed early in this thread.
If I like a product I recommend it. My dealer has your address and is thinking 'bout installing your kit as an option on new Jeeps, don't know if he contacted you yet...
It took me 'bout 45 min. to install 'cause knowing me I measured everything 3 times. hold in place, check etc. before drilling. Easy Job to do and the result is strong.
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Okeechobee, Fl.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Some final advice...
I added this to my 2009 white Rubicon Unlimited, and my wife loves it - no more getting hit in the back of the legs while loading groceries.
I had to drill two sets of holes though, and hope to save others the trouble. Here's what I did:
1. Mounted the tailgate bracket a bit too much to the left as you look at it on the tailgate - just enough so that when you try to close the tailgate you can see that the the collapsed gas strut is too long to allow the door to close! Darn! Had to re-mount the bracket less than an inch to the right (measured MANY times before re-drilling.
2. Did not position the jeep mounted bracket as rear-most as possible. This meant that upon full extension, the tailgate did not extend all the way, but used the gas strut itself as a bump stop. You could see the flex and figure it wouldn't last a long time like that. So, I remounted that bracket as close as I could to the rear of the jeep - touching the rubber weather seal.
My setup is now a perfect fit. The tailgate opens fully, and the hinges absorb the shock of opening, not the gas strut.
I bought the parts from MSC that someone earlier had listed - in black. Cost was around $32, and deliver was in 2 days. They also sent me a hardbound book catalog that ways at least 5 pounds.
I bought a rivet nut kit for about $120, and used 10/32 rivet nuts, but the Harbor Freight set will probably work as well for a fifth the cost.
I mounted my brackets high, like member neoxxis shows in his photos.
Overall, a great idea, and thanks to all who contributed their experiences here.
I am now looking at how I can get the front doors to stay propped open a bit, like on regular car doors. Any ideas?
I had to drill two sets of holes though, and hope to save others the trouble. Here's what I did:
1. Mounted the tailgate bracket a bit too much to the left as you look at it on the tailgate - just enough so that when you try to close the tailgate you can see that the the collapsed gas strut is too long to allow the door to close! Darn! Had to re-mount the bracket less than an inch to the right (measured MANY times before re-drilling.
2. Did not position the jeep mounted bracket as rear-most as possible. This meant that upon full extension, the tailgate did not extend all the way, but used the gas strut itself as a bump stop. You could see the flex and figure it wouldn't last a long time like that. So, I remounted that bracket as close as I could to the rear of the jeep - touching the rubber weather seal.
My setup is now a perfect fit. The tailgate opens fully, and the hinges absorb the shock of opening, not the gas strut.
I bought the parts from MSC that someone earlier had listed - in black. Cost was around $32, and deliver was in 2 days. They also sent me a hardbound book catalog that ways at least 5 pounds.
I bought a rivet nut kit for about $120, and used 10/32 rivet nuts, but the Harbor Freight set will probably work as well for a fifth the cost.
I mounted my brackets high, like member neoxxis shows in his photos.
Overall, a great idea, and thanks to all who contributed their experiences here.
I am now looking at how I can get the front doors to stay propped open a bit, like on regular car doors. Any ideas?
Last edited by Combat Jump; Jan 13, 2009 at 08:01 AM.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,595
Likes: 0
From: The Badlands (near Lafayette, IN)
I added this to my 2009 white Rubicon Unlimited, and my wife loves it - no more getting hit in the back of the legs while loading groceries.
I had to drill two sets of holes though, and hope to save others the trouble. Here's what I did:
1. Mounted the tailgate bracket a bit too much to the left as you look at it on the tailgate - just enough so that when you try to close the tailgate you can see that the the collapsed gas strut is too long to allow the door to close! Darn! Had to re-mount the bracket less than an inch to the right (measured MANY times before re-drilling.
2. Did not position the jeep mounted bracket as rear-most as possible. This meant that upon full extension, the tailgate did not extend all the way, but used the gas strut itself as a bump stop. You could see the flex and figure it wouldn't last a long time like that. So, I remounted that bracket as close as I could to the rear of the jeep - touching the rubber weather seal.
My setup is now a perfect fit. The tailgate opens fully, and the hinges absorb the shock of opening, not the gas strut.
I bought the parts from MSC that someone earlier had listed - in black. Cost was around $32, and deliver was in 2 days. They also sent me a hardbound book catalog that ways at least 5 pounds.
I bought a rivet nut kit for about $120, and used 10/32 rivet nuts, but the Harbor Freight set will probably work as well for a fifth the cost.
I mounted my brackets high, like member neoxxis shows in his photos.
Overall, a great idea, and thanks to all who contributed their experiences here.
I am now looking at how I can get the front doors to stay propped open a bit, like on regular car doors. Any ideas?
I had to drill two sets of holes though, and hope to save others the trouble. Here's what I did:
1. Mounted the tailgate bracket a bit too much to the left as you look at it on the tailgate - just enough so that when you try to close the tailgate you can see that the the collapsed gas strut is too long to allow the door to close! Darn! Had to re-mount the bracket less than an inch to the right (measured MANY times before re-drilling.
2. Did not position the jeep mounted bracket as rear-most as possible. This meant that upon full extension, the tailgate did not extend all the way, but used the gas strut itself as a bump stop. You could see the flex and figure it wouldn't last a long time like that. So, I remounted that bracket as close as I could to the rear of the jeep - touching the rubber weather seal.
My setup is now a perfect fit. The tailgate opens fully, and the hinges absorb the shock of opening, not the gas strut.
I bought the parts from MSC that someone earlier had listed - in black. Cost was around $32, and deliver was in 2 days. They also sent me a hardbound book catalog that ways at least 5 pounds.
I bought a rivet nut kit for about $120, and used 10/32 rivet nuts, but the Harbor Freight set will probably work as well for a fifth the cost.
I mounted my brackets high, like member neoxxis shows in his photos.
Overall, a great idea, and thanks to all who contributed their experiences here.
I am now looking at how I can get the front doors to stay propped open a bit, like on regular car doors. Any ideas?
Yeah, the same kind of gas strut, but with a much lower force.
There are many kinds of strut end mounts, including pins that could be quickly removed with the doors.
JK Newbie
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
Done, very easy, and works great! From order to install 3hrs, but I'm lucky because McMaster-Carr is only 12miles from home, and A Harbor Freight near also. Picked up some metal for the grill mod while I was there also.
McMaster-Carr parts:
9416K192 - Gas Shock 30LBS (should have gotten the 40LBS) 18.62"
9416K74 - 10mm Black Steel Ball Socket for M6 Thread
9512K93 - Ball Mount Hardware (longer for inside the rig)
9512K92 - Ball Mount Hardware (shorter for the tailgate)
Harbor Freight tools:
94100 - Blind Riveter
2972 - Nut Rivets
McMaster-Carr parts:
9416K192 - Gas Shock 30LBS (should have gotten the 40LBS) 18.62"
9416K74 - 10mm Black Steel Ball Socket for M6 Thread
9512K93 - Ball Mount Hardware (longer for inside the rig)
9512K92 - Ball Mount Hardware (shorter for the tailgate)
Harbor Freight tools:
94100 - Blind Riveter
2972 - Nut Rivets
JK Enthusiast
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte, NC
JK Enthusiast
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte, NC
Neoxxis - if you take off the taillight, you can gain access to that area. You may be able to reach your install location - or may not- there is a piece of sheetmetal in there that you have to contort your hand around. I was able to get one bolt and nut on, but not they other two. I also used JB weld (sanded area to bare metal first) and put two self cutting 1/4 inch screws in...mine is solid as a rock. I attached the tailgate piece the similarly - jb weld and self cutting screws....again, solid as a rock! In my opinion, the trick was to let the JB weld cure for 24 hrs and use a 30lb shock. I also repainted everything with touch up...looks factory!
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
From: Anchorage, AK
