Mr.T

Just purchased a new Odyssey 34-PC1500T for my 2008 JK, and then tested it for CCA (cold cranking amps), AH (amp hours), WH (watt hours), and IR (internal resistance).

850 CCA rated
988 CCA as tested (Argus large current pulse analyzer).

56 AH rated @ 14 amps (77 F)
57.3 AH as tested (70 F Watts-Up meter + resistive load w/ 10.2 Volt cut-off).

668 WH rated @ 14 amps (77F)
666 WH as tested (70 F, Watts-Up meter + resistive load w/ 10.2 Volt cut-off).

2.5 mOhm IR (internal resistance) rated
2.3 mOhm as tested (AC method, battery impedance meter).
Note: Lower IR is better, resulting in higher CCA, AH, and WH. As batteries age, or have quality problems, the IR goes up.


Odyssey obviously meets their published specs, which are pretty high compared with typical group 34 batteries (~600 CCA rated). For me, with a battery like this one there's no need for dual batteries with a winch. The full tech specs are at ODYSSEY battery - Official Manufacturer's Site.

I haven't tested many automotive batteries this completely, but in my limited experience Odyssey has been the best (and most expensive initially). The pair in my diesel truck are 8 years old and are still testing fine -- ready for another winter!

A battery shootout with several brands in the same size might make an interesting article...

jedg

good to know. This is the one I'm considering for my next battery since the diehard platinum is discontinued... thanks!

SF_E60

Im currently running this battery.

Mr.T

Coincidentally, a 4 year old Diehard Platinum is what I'm replacing. I didn't make this thorough a test when I bought the Platinum, but did enough to know it was below spec initially, and hasn't held up over time nearly as well as my other Odyssey batteries. The Platinum nameplate rating is 880 CCA and it measured 550 a few days ago (although a discharge-recharge cycle brought it up to 600 CCA). It still starts just fine, no bad symptoms at all --
But I'm planning a 1 vehicle trip where the risk of battery failure (including potential winch use) isn't worth the cost of replacing the battery.

That was the only Platinum for me, so obviously no idea if my experience was an exception or the norm. It doesn't matter since the Diehard Platinum was discontinued, but I really wonder if it actually was a re-badged Odyssey built to the same specs and QC ???

jedg

Good to know... mine is six years old i think. my daughter ran it completely dead once. i recharged it and its done fine for the two years since to include several winching sessions...

pbsis

I have used odysseys before with good luck. IIRC they are made in the same factory as many of the light-weight battery options but cost significantly less. Cant remember where I read that tho.

Mr.T

On a related note... There was a nice deal on the new Odyssey 20A charger, and I couldn't resist. Neither could I resist getting the meters out and testing it... Here's a few observations:

No fan. No switches, no buttons, no menus, not even an on-off switch. Just connect the battery clamps and plug it in. I like the minimalist user interface, it's like a smarter version of my dad's manual charger from the 1950's.

There's a trouble lamp if it's connected reverse polarity, has a bad connection, or the battery is ready for the recycle bin.

The manual says it's weather-proof. It looks sealed for rain, but not total submersion in a flood.

The LED status lamps for state of charge, the current charging phase, and trouble are adequate. Volt and amp meters would be nice, but that's more stuff to go foobar, and add to the price tag.

It can be left connected, after charging it goes into maintenance mode.

If it gets too warm, it backs off the amps to maintain a safe operating temperature. This occurred while charging deeply discharged batteries during the initial charging phase, eventually dropping a couple amps from the initial 20 amps.

There's a single multi-step charge algorithm for both AGM and flooded 12V lead-acid batteries. It was interesting to watch, the voltage tapers up as current reduces in the "conditioning" phase from about 13.9 to 14.7 volts rather than staying at a flat 14.7 as the graph in product literature depicts. The final voltage of ~14.7 is only reached at ~1 amp charging current. This phase is commonly called the "absorption" phase in other chargers, and my CTEK 25000 pretty much flat lines the voltage during this phase at 14.4 (with temperature compensation). The Odyssey algorithm minimizes the time above 14.X volts until current is low, and I'll speculate that's meant to optimize it for both AGM and flooded batteries (with a minimal equalization charge).

In either case, both the CTEK and Odyssey chargers are safe and mild on voltage -- Which is good for batteries and automotive electronics. Odyssey has a pretty short list of approved chargers, and over the last few years I've tossed two supposedly AGM rated chargers that hit 16+ volts in their charge cycle.

Mr.T

It's been 2.5 years, just checked the battery and it's measuring 830 CCA -- Nameplate rating is 850 CCA. That's pretty good, and reinforces my experience that a really good new battery should measure higher than rated then drop into the rated zone.

jedg

Good to know. I purchased an this battery based on your review. Mine is also still going strong.

Rednroll

Ok, inquiring minds want to know what you used and how you took all those measurements?

I'ld like to do the same on my current Sears DieHard Platinum.

My JKU is now coming up on being 10 years old. Stock battery lasted 2 years before I replaced it with a Sears DieHard Platinum. That one lasted for 2.5 years and replaced it with another Sears Die-hard Platinum which is what is still installed. So I'm around 5 years on this 2nd one. Over the past 3 years, every 6 months I put the micro controller charger on it to make sure it's fully topped off. I'm currently crediting the additional life on the 2nd one due to using the micro controller charger on it. I wish I had that charger when the 1st DH Platium battery died, probably could have revived it. Although hindsight 20/20, it was probably a good thing I didn't since I likely would have missed my window of opportunity to purchase the 2nd DHP.

Last month I completely drained my current DHP after I forgot I left a device plugged into the OBD2 port overnight. It was drained pretty well, I couldn't unlock my doors with my key fob but I easily jump started it with one of those Lithium ion jump packs to get me on my way to work. Which BTW I feel is a better solution than a dual battery setup when you have one of these types of higher performance AGM batteries.

Another side discussion. I found out it really sucks when you drain your battery after the doors have been locked and the alarm is turned on. When I jump started it, the alarm started going off, which seemed kind of ridiculous to me since the key was in the ignition, in the on position with the engine running. Not wanting to turn off the engine, I was frantically trying to disarm the alarm with my key fob in the ignition and no button pushes worked. I had to go back in the house (with the alarm still blaring mind you), search for a backup key fob, to then turn the alarm off. I'm sure my neighbors loved me since this entire process took about 15 minutes with the alarm blaring before I got it turned off. Good morning neighbors! Sorry.