Tereflex Quick Disconnect Install
JK Freak
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 888
Likes: 1
From: Mt. Pleasant, SC
Same issue here. I bolted in the discos, went to lift the sway bar up to meet up with the pin and the top bolt hits the metal, so I can't raise the sway bar high enough to connect them. Now I'm going to have to cut down the bolts like Mark did. That's a pain when you weren't expecting it.
Oh, and there were no instructions in the box. It's a good thing I have this forum to fall back on.
Oh, and there were no instructions in the box. It's a good thing I have this forum to fall back on.
Hrmm, I have a weird issue.
If I use the stock axle mount bolts in the upper position, facing out, they rub against the tire lugs when stuffed & turning. If I turn the bolts around so the head faces outwards, it works fine while disco'd, but then I can't swing the sway bar back down because the threaded end of the bolt hits against the metal 'cowl' of the coil retainer (near the word 'which' in your 5th picture).
Any suggestions? Should I get shorter bolts?
Not only that, but both zerk nipples went missing on the passenger side somehow while disco'd and wheeling this weekend, sigh.
If I use the stock axle mount bolts in the upper position, facing out, they rub against the tire lugs when stuffed & turning. If I turn the bolts around so the head faces outwards, it works fine while disco'd, but then I can't swing the sway bar back down because the threaded end of the bolt hits against the metal 'cowl' of the coil retainer (near the word 'which' in your 5th picture).
Any suggestions? Should I get shorter bolts?
Not only that, but both zerk nipples went missing on the passenger side somehow while disco'd and wheeling this weekend, sigh.
JK Freak
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 715
Likes: 1
From: Saginaw, MI
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 374
Likes: 0
From: Farmington, Ct
I installed these last week and yesterday I tried to disconnect and then stow
them. I soon discovered that the bolts are slightly too long, maybe a thread
or two. They would move past the spring cowel with a push, but I had to tap
the sway bar with a block of wood and hammer to get the sway bar back
down to driving position. Defintely gonna have to trim a bit of the bolts
to eliminate this minor problem.
I really do like the ability to stow the links while wheeling.
them. I soon discovered that the bolts are slightly too long, maybe a thread
or two. They would move past the spring cowel with a push, but I had to tap
the sway bar with a block of wood and hammer to get the sway bar back
down to driving position. Defintely gonna have to trim a bit of the bolts
to eliminate this minor problem.
I really do like the ability to stow the links while wheeling.
JK Super Freak
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,300
Likes: 1
From: germantown, maryland
Just got mine yesterday..quick question:
1) is there a top and bottom to the disconnects?(does it matter which end goes to the frame and whice end is the "sway"?)
2) do i only need to remove the silver bushing on the "Sway end" not the one attached to the frame?
3) the pin where i stow the bar in the "disconnected" position isn't a tight fit..it slightly jiggles. is taht correct?
thanks
Steve
1) is there a top and bottom to the disconnects?(does it matter which end goes to the frame and whice end is the "sway"?)
2) do i only need to remove the silver bushing on the "Sway end" not the one attached to the frame?
3) the pin where i stow the bar in the "disconnected" position isn't a tight fit..it slightly jiggles. is taht correct?
thanks
Steve
JK Super Freak
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,142
Likes: 0
From: Montclair, VA
Just got mine yesterday..quick question:
1) is there a top and bottom to the disconnects?(does it matter which end goes to the frame and whice end is the "sway"?)
2) do i only need to remove the silver bushing on the "Sway end" not the one attached to the frame?
3) the pin where i stow the bar in the "disconnected" position isn't a tight fit..it slightly jiggles. is taht correct?
thanks
Steve
1) is there a top and bottom to the disconnects?(does it matter which end goes to the frame and whice end is the "sway"?)
2) do i only need to remove the silver bushing on the "Sway end" not the one attached to the frame?
3) the pin where i stow the bar in the "disconnected" position isn't a tight fit..it slightly jiggles. is taht correct?
thanks
Steve
wow, no one answered your questions...
well, i just opened my box and it appears that at least the latest batch of these (so far the 3rd design i've seen for the same disconnects). has 2 totally different size mounts for the bottom quick disconnect and the storage quick disconnect. mine are very different in size. so the bottom ones go into the links without the sleeve, and the storage ones just fit lose, probably to make it easier to throw them up there, there is no need for them to be tight.
so the top link's bushings do have the sleeve, and the bottom ones that connect to the quick disconnects do not have a sleeve, the disconnect is a tight fit without the sleeve, no play. but the storage quick disconnect pins are smaller now and allow much play in the "stored" position.
the sway bar links are angled as well, so the they should be angled inwards going up. so the bottom is closer to the tire then the top.
hope that helps!
JK Newbie
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Chadstone, Melbourne, Australia
teraflex disconnects touching suspension coil / spring
Great write up.
Long background story, but, i've needed to replace my factory sway bar link arms quickly before Christmas, and the teraflex quick disconnects were the only ones I could get before the Christmas shutdown.
After fitting them, i noticed that the right hand side (driver's side for US Jeeps, passenger side for my Australian Jeep) disconnect now touches the suspension coil / spring. Although it is not pressed really hard against the spring, clearly it is not a good setup and the 10kms of driving since fitting it already show rub marks on the disconnect.
Has anyone noticed this problem? The weird part is that the other side has enough clearance between the spring and the disconnet to not be a problem. Looking at the spring that is touching the disconnect, it is not sitting exactly in the middle in relation to the bump stop, so I am thinking it is possible the spring has somehow moved forward and is now in the way.
More to the point, can anyone suggest a way to fix the problem?
my thoughts are:
Not quite sure which one to go for, especially given the holiday season is going to make any purchase difficult to achive quickly.
FWIW, I have the Old Man Emu 2inch lift fitting, and the teraflex quick disconnet is meant to be the 0-3" of lift kit, but, i can not find any details about how long the arm is meant to be for that kit, so, i can not be certain that i haven't some how ended up with the 4-6" lift kit Quick disconnect part.
see pics at http://photobucket.com/MJOC
Long background story, but, i've needed to replace my factory sway bar link arms quickly before Christmas, and the teraflex quick disconnects were the only ones I could get before the Christmas shutdown.
After fitting them, i noticed that the right hand side (driver's side for US Jeeps, passenger side for my Australian Jeep) disconnect now touches the suspension coil / spring. Although it is not pressed really hard against the spring, clearly it is not a good setup and the 10kms of driving since fitting it already show rub marks on the disconnect.
Has anyone noticed this problem? The weird part is that the other side has enough clearance between the spring and the disconnet to not be a problem. Looking at the spring that is touching the disconnect, it is not sitting exactly in the middle in relation to the bump stop, so I am thinking it is possible the spring has somehow moved forward and is now in the way.
More to the point, can anyone suggest a way to fix the problem?
my thoughts are:
- buy someone's original (unwanted) factory link arms and fit those as they are shorter and don't get in the way of the suspension.
- get the offending spring moved backwards a few mm to get it clear of the new larger and longer disconnectable arm
- buy an aftermarket sway bar with shorter arms that will pull the disconnects away from the suspension springs
- buy some other disconnects that are shorter (or longer) that don't get in the way of the suspension.
Not quite sure which one to go for, especially given the holiday season is going to make any purchase difficult to achive quickly.
FWIW, I have the Old Man Emu 2inch lift fitting, and the teraflex quick disconnet is meant to be the 0-3" of lift kit, but, i can not find any details about how long the arm is meant to be for that kit, so, i can not be certain that i haven't some how ended up with the 4-6" lift kit Quick disconnect part.
see pics at http://photobucket.com/MJOC
