Water Pump Replacement
06-26-2013, 09:06 AM
#71
Well I just finished replacing mine 20 minutes ago... Filled it and now letting it run for a bit... I'm chasing an over heating problem and I already replaced the bad fan motor and assembly, thermostat and radiator cap. Nothing was visibly wrong with my water pump but I figured it was cheap and there aren't that many parts that work with the cooling system... My fan runs full tilt CONSTANTLY and it over heats... Especially with the ac on... Hoping this helps but it's starting to get hot again...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
06-26-2013, 09:34 AM
#73
I would get one of these. Works fantastic and will minimize a mess. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001A4...945115-7705412 lots of places sell this.
U could also try removing the heater core hoses, and using a garden hose with the engine cold, and flush the heater core out. Go both directions on the hoses.
U might have some blockage in there preventing the core from doing its job.
Have u ever flushed the cooling system at all?
Also... When u are bleeding the system with the jeep running, u want your heat on full hot and the blower on if u had not done this already.
U could also try removing the heater core hoses, and using a garden hose with the engine cold, and flush the heater core out. Go both directions on the hoses.
U might have some blockage in there preventing the core from doing its job.
Have u ever flushed the cooling system at all?
Also... When u are bleeding the system with the jeep running, u want your heat on full hot and the blower on if u had not done this already.
Last edited by rinkishJK; 06-26-2013 at 09:43 AM.
06-26-2013, 09:54 AM
#74
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Centereach, NY
Posts: 338
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'll have to try that! Right now I'm running it with the get on full blast... Engine stayin cool and no fan yet... But once I turn the ac on its a different story... Couple air bubbles here and there and yes ok running it with the radiator cap off
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
07-27-2013, 11:53 AM
#75
JK Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Highland, indiana
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
belt tensioner pulley
How in the hell do you get the belt tensioner pulley back into place? I used a 3/8 rachet in the square hole and am trying to pull up so it pops into place but I cant get it there. I am also using a pry bar for leverage. I dont want to break anything as I am using a lot of force
09-24-2013, 09:45 AM
#77
JK Jedi Master
Thanks for the write-up. Very helpful. I do wonder about draining the radiator first. I didn't because I had just spent $140 letting the dealer flush and refill my coolant. If you're going to the trouble to drain the radiator, then seems to me that you should also flush the system (should be done about every 100K miles for early model JKs; 150K miles for '13 models). If you're not going to flush the radiator, then there's no need to fuss with the radiator. Loosen the water pump bolts, the top bolts a turn or two more than the bottom, but leaving the bolts in place. Place a two gallon bucket and maybe a tarp to catch the splashes--pretty much below the pump. Pry the pump loose from the top, tilting it so that it can slowly drain into the bucket. Recommend disposing of this fluid--it will be about 1-2 quarts, and replacing with fresh 50/50 mix.
09-25-2013, 02:44 PM
#78
JK Freak
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 849
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, my pump started leaking. And my warranty has just recently run out (I'm now at 37K). So I decided to replace it. For the record, I am not a mechanic. I'm just explaining how I did this. If you follow my directions and have a bad outcome, it would be similar to following a mechanic's instructions on how to perform cardiac bypass. I'm just giving everyone an idea of what is involved.
First, I had to find a place that had the pump. Everywhere I looked they were remanufactured, so I ended up getting one from Advance Auto.
Start by draining the radiator of coolant. On the bottom of the passenger side of the radiator there is a small plastic screw that cannot be turned by hand apparently. It has a small spout under it. I attached a piece of tubing that I had laying around because the engineers at Jeep put a small crossmember and some wiring directly below the spout. I wanted to make less of a mess.
Then isolate the water pump. It is the pulley in the middle with the non-ribbed side of the belt coursing around it.
Take the serpentine belt off by putting a 3/8" rachet into the square hole on the belt tensioner pulley on the left of this picture. Once the belt is off, inspect it for damage, cracks, and other problems and replace it as needed. After the belt is off, you can take off the cover of the pulley itself. It has three bolts (red arrow), and they are 13mm. However, you also need a phillips screwdriver to put through the little holes(yellow arrow) to hole it in place while you turn those bolts.
After it comes off, there are 7 10mm bolts that hold the pump in place. I don't have a picture of this step, but some are marked in green on this picture.
Once they are all loose, pull straight forward. Have a bucket under the front of the engine block, as there will be plenty of coolant coming out that didn't come out of the radiator. Here is what the old one will look like on the ground.
Then, spend some time cleaning the old gasket off the block. I used a razor blade. Don't use a screwdriver or chisel, as you might gouge the metal and make it impossible for the gasket to seal, thus making it leak still.
Put the new gasket (some people put sealant here, some don't. Follow the directions of your particular gasket is all I can tell you) on the new pump. Finger start all the bolts, then crank them all down slowly so as not to warp the pump. The manual state to crank them down to 12 N*m or 105 in-lbs (8.75ft-lbs). Then attach the pulley assembly using 28 N*m or 250 in-lbs (20.8333) as the tension on the bolts. Put the serpentine belt back on the same way you took it off.
Refill with antifreeze. I used this opportunity to put new in as I didn't really put the old in a clean container. Fill up to the top, then run it, topping off as needed. Eventually all the air bubbles will come out. Now you have a shiny new water pump that doesn't leak on your floor.
First, I had to find a place that had the pump. Everywhere I looked they were remanufactured, so I ended up getting one from Advance Auto.
Start by draining the radiator of coolant. On the bottom of the passenger side of the radiator there is a small plastic screw that cannot be turned by hand apparently. It has a small spout under it. I attached a piece of tubing that I had laying around because the engineers at Jeep put a small crossmember and some wiring directly below the spout. I wanted to make less of a mess.
Then isolate the water pump. It is the pulley in the middle with the non-ribbed side of the belt coursing around it.
Take the serpentine belt off by putting a 3/8" rachet into the square hole on the belt tensioner pulley on the left of this picture. Once the belt is off, inspect it for damage, cracks, and other problems and replace it as needed. After the belt is off, you can take off the cover of the pulley itself. It has three bolts (red arrow), and they are 13mm. However, you also need a phillips screwdriver to put through the little holes(yellow arrow) to hole it in place while you turn those bolts.
After it comes off, there are 7 10mm bolts that hold the pump in place. I don't have a picture of this step, but some are marked in green on this picture.
Once they are all loose, pull straight forward. Have a bucket under the front of the engine block, as there will be plenty of coolant coming out that didn't come out of the radiator. Here is what the old one will look like on the ground.
Then, spend some time cleaning the old gasket off the block. I used a razor blade. Don't use a screwdriver or chisel, as you might gouge the metal and make it impossible for the gasket to seal, thus making it leak still.
Put the new gasket (some people put sealant here, some don't. Follow the directions of your particular gasket is all I can tell you) on the new pump. Finger start all the bolts, then crank them all down slowly so as not to warp the pump. The manual state to crank them down to 12 N*m or 105 in-lbs (8.75ft-lbs). Then attach the pulley assembly using 28 N*m or 250 in-lbs (20.8333) as the tension on the bolts. Put the serpentine belt back on the same way you took it off.
Refill with antifreeze. I used this opportunity to put new in as I didn't really put the old in a clean container. Fill up to the top, then run it, topping off as needed. Eventually all the air bubbles will come out. Now you have a shiny new water pump that doesn't leak on your floor.
Thanks for the write up.
