I'd read up on that earlier when the OP posted it. It seems more of an issue with lack of maintenance on the driveshafts than anything else? As is true with any moving part, it will wear down over time and degrade, and either fail or cause a connected part to fail. In this case, the transfer case. Anytime you move away from factory geometry and parts to aftermarket parts, regular maintenance becomes even more crucial. But that post does have good arguments on both sides. I would have to agree with WOL on that the Double Cardan driveshaft is the better option than a rzeppa joint driveshaft when going over 3" of lift. But getting that pinion angle as near perfect as possible will definitely minimize this type of failure as will proper lubrication of the parts and regular maintenance.

 

What dif covers do you have? I have the Rockcrushers and they just get very tight with the heat generated. Go find a Giant Allen wrench to get it off. You can also use a grade 8 bolt head maybe. I twisted a grade 8 off like it was nothing though. I finally took the cover to the vice and heated around the plug with a torch.

 

Technically, we all leave the "clear" when we deviate from the stock geometry. Case in point - factory components (no matter how good or poor the quality maybe) are designed to work together with each other much better than aftermarket components. When we put on a lift, and start modifying components and replacing them, there's always the risk that something could give. This risk increases when we move over 2" - 2.5" of lift and gets more drastic as you go over 4" - 4.5" because the geometry is more seriously affected - angles get sharper, caster, etc. In the case of your 3.25", I wouldn't worry overly about it since once you add an aftermarket front bumper, winch, etc., the sag caused will bring you closer to a 2.5" lift (my 4" RC lift originally now nets me in the under 3" range after having the tire carrier, 35s, hi lift jack, bumper, stinger, winch, etc.). But, at some point, the stock driveshafts will give - just a matter of time, and when it does, just upgrade to the 1310 driveshafts and make sure it's installed right - with respect to pinion angles, caster, etc. and make sure you keep them lubed up on a regular basis.

 

Dang. That's not good. I know you gotta get that plug snug, but overtightening it would do more damage than good. Hope you're able to get that off.

On the diff fluid leaking, is it leaking to the point of having drops on the floor? Or is it just seepage that looks like it's damp?

 

Not a 100% but I think he's got stock covers?

 

Sorry guys, I was out in the garage giving it another try.

Yes, I have the stock ones. I got them free with the purchase of my Jeep


I ended up getting the plug pulled. It was on TIGHT, but with all my might I pushed and pushed. The Jeep rocked forwards and backwards a little (even with the parking brake engaged), but eventually it gave.

On a plus note I was able to get the diff cover off, and the gears look A-OK

The fluid is pretty major. When I first noticed it, it was quarter sized. I came inside, rested my back and hopped on the forum. Maybe 30 minutes later when I gave the drain plug a second go the oil had increased to the about 3 inches in diameter.

I had not noticed oil in the snow... but if you saw my picture from earlier, you'll notice my driver's side was actually elevated. That is what probably kept the oil inside the diff while it was outside.

 

You know, I need to invest in some allen wrenches. I've always used the bare end of my ratchet. Perhaps that is why I had problems, I might not have had enough leverage.

 

I have a feeling the price of those stock diffs was included somewhere in the Base MSRP of the Jeep . If I've learnt something being in the automotive sales industry for over 10 years now, it's this - Ain't nothing FREE .

That's awesome that the gears look ok. Make sure you get a can of brake cleaner and spray the gears and insides of the diff out good and get some shop towel or a clean rag and dry it good to make sure that no foreign objects or dirt is left behind.

Take it it's the front diff that's leaking? Where exactly is it leaking from again? Is it where the driveshaft flange is? Or is it leaking from the axle shaft side?

 

You'll need the allen wrenches with the aftermarket diff covers; stock diff covers don't need allen wrenches . But I'm sure at some point, you'll beef up the covers to something more sturdier, and you will need those then

 

I used a small propane/butane torch for plumbing to heat around plug. I would use some anti-seize or pipe dope when you put plug back.