poesdad

If i already have 2.5” and want an inch or so more, what’s wrong with doing this 4” with Fox shocks?

DEJK2012

When you get in that range you will need a way to adjust your caster and steering. To do it the "best" way, you will end us spending at least $2,300 for a proper lift kit with adjustable control arms and so on so on. What you currently have is good enough to put 35s on and cruise around looking good. If you really want somthing taller then get this Metal Cloak lift. If you have a lighter jeep then you will get more lift then the 3.5 advertised.
https://metalcloak.com/jeep-jk-wrang...t-edition.html

resharp001

Y, I think most of us here would tell you that higher ain't better, and it just introduces new headaches. At that point, you're really now addressing drive shafts, and sometimes control arm brackets aren't enough adjustment so you're then looking at adjustable control arms. It just introduces more things to address, and the cost start to add up. My personal believe is 2.5" and 35's is a nice look, and good middle ground for most people not wanting to get balls deep in to things. More lift just creates higher center of gravity which isn't gonna help anything on or off road. I'd just keep it simple, and enjoy it, specially considering you have an off road toy in the other rig. Just my 2c.

nthinuf

Absolutely nothing. What it comes down to is that: It's your Jeep. And it's your money. You should buy and install whatever makes sense to YOU.

That said, the folks commenting here have been where you are. We have seen the various issues caused by lifting, and have some experience with correcting those problems. So what might benefit you is to, rather than either ignoring the advice, or taking the advice as 100% fact, to listen to what is said, then spend the time on research so that you go into the build with your eyes open.

For instance, that kit has 4" coils. What 'actual measured' lift height do you expect to end up at? (my 3.5" MC coils have me over 4.5" measured). That kit does NOT come with caster correction. Is this something you will want when you are sitting over 4"? (hint: yes, you will). Both axles will be shifted off to one side. Is that something you will care about? (Again, more than likely). Not only will the axles move to one side, but they will move closer together, decreasing the wheel base. (If you choose to address this, how?) Most people think about correcting the steering angles with a draglink flip at around 3.5", so have you researched these? (it will tie in with centering that front axle, so look at the two problems together). Driveshafts were mentioned, since the stock front shafts are known casualties with taller lifts. (what are your plans for when it spits out all its grease and seizes?)

So, to circle back to where I started, there is absolutely nothing wrong with slapping on a taller lift. Just do yourself a really big favor and spend a little time on research before you pull out the credit card. None of this stuff is mandatory. If you want to slap on 4" coils and nothing else, go for it. But you'll be a lot happier if you go into it having an idea of how to correct the problems that are going to come up.

poesdad

thanks again guys. I think I will throw 35s on it now and see if I “absolutely have to” Lift more.

karls10jk

I see you want 35's but you've also got a Sahara. Most of us with the sport, X, and Rubi just clip the stock flares back to give the optical illusion of more lift and the reality of more travel with less bumpstop. You could do the same thing with your flares, just be sure to take your time so they don't get scratched in the process.

35's, 2.5" lift (Metalcloak coils with Rancho shocks), and trimmed stock flares. It looks like more than 2.5" but I don't have near the expense of a 3"+ kit with all the driveability people love with lower lifts. I guess it really comes down to what's important to you. I chose street manners with all the capability of a 2.5" kit without limiting the travel by way of plastic flares getting in the way. If it's about looks then absolutely go for the shiny lift kit and then pay big bucks (as noted above). There's a reason some "kits" are cheaper than others, look at the pieces and learn what they do and why you might want them.

Rednroll

It sounds to me like you're looking for a lift that will fit 35s, has great on road ride quality, provides good off-road capabilities which isn't sh*t but also won't break the bank. AKA a great value lift. Step inside and come along for the ride, you're in my wheel house. I spent well over a year looking at the options in this category, comparing them, reading up on user feedback and what I determined is that the Mopar 2in lift is your best bang for the buck in this lift class. I definitely wouldn't recommend going with a 4in lift for 35s, regardless of brand.

Here are the options, the components, and price ranges of the Mopar 2in lift for the JK.




I got Mopar P/N: 77070089 which is the 2in lift for the 4 door, which doesn't include the replacement Dana drive shaft. The 2012+ kits include the drive shaft and will typically run $300-$400 higher in price. It doesn't matter if you have a 2012+ JK or not, you can still run the lift without the additional drive shaft if you have a 2012+ JK. It's just recommended that you get exhaust spacers instead if you don't get the kit with the drive shaft for a 2012+, which is what most every other lift in this category recommends doing for a 2012+. I paid $759 for that lift. Shop around. Here it is for $800, you can likely find better prices.
https://www.moparamerica.com/?p=cata...h_str=77070089

You could stop there since the Mopar kit includes cam bolts for caster correction if you don't want to spend any more money. Many have used the cam bolts and are happy with them. I personally don't recommend using the cam bolts because you have to grind out the bracket on your axle control arm brackets. I would recommend going with the Rancho geo correction brackets instead which run around $130-$150. I had a hard time deciding between going with the Rancho geo brackets or adjustable front lower control arms for caster correction. I split the difference and decided I would go with a good value lower cost adjustable front lower control arms which were the Rough Country X-Flex adjustable control arms for $170. I figured if I didn't like them or if they didn't last, they would be good enough for me to evaluate and decide if the ride quality was good enough for me or not. So far it's turns out that these adjustable arms have been good and the ride quality is good for me. I wouldn't recommend a RC lift, but these RC adjustable control arms are fine if you keep the joints greased. I keep telling myself I'm going to upgrade to a higher quality adjustable control arm but I'm not into buying additional parts if they're not needed and so far going on 2 1/2 years...replacements haven't been needed.

With the Mopar 2in lift, it provides 3 1/4in of actual lift with an unweighted rig. (ie stock bumpers, no winch, stock tire mounted as the spare). With my added steal bumpers, 35in spare, TF HD carrier and a 12K winch, I'm netting 2 3/4in of actual lift which is pretty standard that you lose about a 1/2in of lift after adding that extra weight. With the Mopar 2in lift you get Fox 2.0 performance series shocks. These are the higher priced Fox shocks and not the lower cost Adventure series Fox shocks which come with many of the other lifts in this similar price range. Do the comparison pricing between the Adventure series and the Performance series and you can see the price differences I'm talking about. The only thing better than the Performance 2.0 series shocks from Fox is when you start getting into the multi reservoir Fox and rebuild-able Fox shock options. With the Mopar kit, these aren't your standard off the shelf Fox 2.0 Performance series shocks as well. Mopar worked with Fox to adjust the internal valving to increase the on road ride comfort. That's the reason if you look at the parts list above, you will see different part numbers for the 2door vs the 4door version included Fox shocks. The same for the rear springs. The rear Fox shocks and springs are tuned differently on the 2 door and 4 door versions to better maximize ride quality. Fox doesn't differentiate between the 2 door and 4 door with their off the shelf 2.0 Performance series shocks. You only get that option from Fox with the Mopar branded Fox 2.0 Performance series shocks.

The next best value in this lift height price category while maintaining good on road ride quality based on my research and opinion is the AEV 2.5 DualSport XT lift. It provides 3inches of actual lift and will go down to 2.5inches once you add the weight of bumpers, winch and larger spare on the rear. I prefer Fox shocks over the Bilstein 5100s that come with the AEV. I feel the Fox is a better shock, and they're also longer length, so they will provide slight improved flex capability for off road use over the Bilsteins. Plus, the starting price of the AEV 2.5in DualSport is $1K. Thus, the Mopar 2in lift was a much better value to me than the AEV 2.5in DualSport XT. Nothing wrong with the AEV lift, it's a good lift but it didn't make sense to me spending more, and getting less in return. The AEV you have to purchase caster correction separately, so add that cost I already mentioned above on top of the $1K starting price.

Could you add more to each of these lifts? Yes, and I have but what I outlined will provide you with all the essentials where you have some time to evaluate and make better informed decisions based on your actual experience if you want to start making further upgrades. Going with the BDS lift over the Mopar 2in lift or AEV DualSport XT lift I would not recommend that path once you compare what you're getting in return with the Mopar 2in lift and AEV 2.5in DualSport lift options.

If I were to step up to the next price ranges in this similar amount of lift to fit 35s, I would then start looking at the MC Rocksport where I would have difficulty justifying the increase in price compared to the Mopar 2in and the AEV DS XT and I would likely skip it and go right to the MC GameChanger 2.5in/3.5in instead.

This is my rig with the Mopar 2in lift and 35s, with before/after added weight of an AEV front bumper, front skid plate, 12K winch, rear Hardrock bumper, TF HD tire carrier, and a 35 hanging on the back. I have not rubbed my tires on my fenders yet, the Mopar lift parts haven't rusted and the springs have not sagged. It's a Daily Driver/Weekend Warrior rig where I have no regrets and it's been installed going on 3 years now.






If this is something that interests you, then don't take my word for it. PM me and I will provide you a link to a very long informative conversation from others who have this same lift and can tell you many more details about their experience with this same lift.

Rednroll

Another option you may want to look into if you're just looking to gain an extra inch of fender clearance to what you have now, is to add a body lift. Body lift's can look dumb if you go with one which is too tall. I wouldn't recommend going with anything taller than a 1.5in BL and would lean closer to 1in if you're just looking to gain some extra tire clearance. A body lift will not affect your suspension geometry.

poesdad

WOW!! Thank you for the info. Very helpful.

poesdad

if this come with fox shocks and sits at 3 1/4”, WITH th caster modifications, it sounds like a better option than the BDS I am looking at with Bilsteins.

Am I right?

how difficult would it be to install without a hoist ?

need a spring clamp?