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Modified JK TechTech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.
PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM
No spring clamp and no hoist needed, just some good jack stands (6 ton for height) and a jack capable of getting the Jeep a couple feet off the ground. Jack under the frame to get it high, remove the tires and all front end connections, then allow the axle to droop to the ground. My track bars and steering is still connected here, as well as rear sway bar links, or it would have dropped further. You can see there's plenty of room to take out the coils.
if this come with fox shocks and sits at 3 1/4”, WITH th caster modifications, it sounds like a better option than the BDS I am looking at with Bilsteins.
Am I right?
That was my exact thought when I was doing comparison shopping. The BDS kit you are looking at does include a front adjustable track bar over the Mopar lift, although it's a relatively thin one. That's the thing with all these lifts in these price ranges, where they will all work out of the box but there's always room for some improvement. Prior to purchasing a lift I did my homework in trying to understand what each component did and why it was needed or what I would be missing if a particular lift didn't include that component. When you lift, your front axle will shift to the driver's side about a 1/2in. Adding an adjustable front track bar will allow you to re-center that axle, thus a replacement track bar can be adjusted to be longer than the stock TB, so the axle isn't being pulled to the driver's side. The more important aspect of replacing the stock TB is to get a TB which is heavier duty than stock, which I have my doubts looking at that BDS front TB if it is really heavier duty than the stock track bar or not. A heavier duty front TB will better handle the increased weight of the 35in tires you are planning on. It's definitely, a component you can install a lift without it, then evaluate it without it and decide for yourself at a later time once you understand the benefits of replacing the stock TB.
I added the Teraflex adjustable Monster HD track bar to the Mopar kit. It's not an essential replacement component, but many of us add it to the list of components that should be replaced when moving to larger tires. Teraflex has a nice install video which does a good job on explaining the benefits of replacing the front TB with an adjustable HD one and describes what could happen if you don't. See link below. A stretch on the humor, but definitely some educational info in there. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xrlhfooc-Xc&feature=youtu.be
Originally Posted by poesdad
how difficult would it be to install without a hoist ?
need a spring clamp?
I installed my Mopar 2in lift myself in my driveway. I didn't need a spring clamp. I found this video very helpful to provide me a guide of what I was getting myself into. He installs an OME lift in a drive-way on a Jeep JKU. He even uses the Cam bolts for caster correction during his install if you decide to go that direction with the included cam bolts in the Mopar kit.
That was my exact thought when I was doing comparison shopping. The BDS kit you are looking at does include a front adjustable track bar over the Mopar lift, although it's a relatively thin one. That's the thing with all these lifts in these price ranges, where they will all work out of the box but there's always room for some improvement. Prior to purchasing a lift I did my homework in trying to understand what each component did and why it was needed or what I would be missing if a particular lift didn't include that component. When you lift, your front axle will shift to the driver's side about a 1/2in. Adding an adjustable front track bar will allow you to re-center that axle, thus a replacement track bar can be adjusted to be longer than the stock TB, so the axle isn't being pulled to the driver's side. The more important aspect of replacing the stock TB is to get a TB which is heavier duty than stock, which I have my doubts looking at that BDS front TB if it is really heavier duty than the stock track bar or not. A heavier duty front TB will better handle the increased weight of the 35in tires you are planning on. It's definitely, a component you can install a lift without it, then evaluate it without it and decide for yourself at a later time once you understand the benefits of replacing the stock TB.
I added the Teraflex adjustable Monster HD track bar to the Mopar kit. It's not an essential replacement component, but many of us add it to the list of components that should be replaced when moving to larger tires. Teraflex has a nice install video which does a good job on explaining the benefits of replacing the front TB with an adjustable HD one and describes what could happen if you don't. See link below. A stretch on the humor, but definitely some educational info in there. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xrlhfooc-Xc&feature=youtu.be
I installed my Mopar 2in lift myself in my driveway. I didn't need a spring clamp. I found this video very helpful to provide me a guide of what I was getting myself into. He installs an OME lift in a drive-way on a Jeep JKU. He even uses the Cam bolts for caster correction during his install if you decide to go that direction with the included cam bolts in the Mopar kit.
So, this is the first time I have heard of Mopar lift. When asked about better brand lifts, I was told BDS. I have owned two BDS lifts in the past and loved them. One on the F-150 and the other on my Tundra.
Question 1. Does the Mopar lift have the same type of warranty as the BDS?
2. Which lift will be higher?
3. Which lift springs will settle most?
4. Will the Fox shocks on the Mopar be better (at least tolerable) on the road, compared to the Bilstein 5100? Reviews say the Bilsteins are better on the road.
I do not plan on putting a heavy winch bumper or larger spare.
If I go with the BDS, I am understanding I will need to get the caster mod. If the Mopar, I’ll need a trac bar.
So, this is the first time I have heard of Mopar lift. When asked about better brand lifts, I was told BDS. I have owned two BDS lifts in the past and loved them. One on the F-150 and the other on my Tundra.
Question 1. Does the Mopar lift have the same type of warranty as the BDS?
2. Which lift will be higher?
3. Which lift springs will settle most?
4. Will the Fox shocks on the Mopar be better (at least tolerable) on the road, compared to the Bilstein 5100? Reviews say the Bilsteins are better on the road.
I do not plan on putting a heavy winch bumper or larger spare.
If I go with the BDS, I am understanding I will need to get the caster mod. If the Mopar, I’ll need a trac bar.
You're asking a lot of subjective and debatable questions. What is the price of the BDS kit? Can you provide a link? You really need to do an apples to apples comparison between any of these lifts which often isn't as easy as it sounds. Like I mentioned most lifts in this price range can be improved upon. Whether or not those improvements are needed or not is where the debates tend to start. The necessity of caster correction is one of those items which is a non debatable item in my opinion but even there you will often find some folks on these forums insisting it was not needed for their lift but then at the same time there's often 100 posts on these forums complaining about how their rig steers and rides like crap after they lifted and 9 times out of 10 it's because they haven't added anything for proper caster correction after lifting.
BDS is really a brand name owned by sporttruckusa who also own JKS and Zone offroad. Ironically, they also own the Fox branded shocks.
Sporttruckusa brand lift offerings are tiered as such.
1. JKS
2. BDS
3. Zone
So, BDS is often not considered a top tier brand lift for the JK when compared to other brands such as AEV or MetalCloak. JKS is in that upper class category. I'm not saying BDS is a bad brand but they are a mid-tier offering almost by definition. Thus, the reason when I look at that BDS track bar, although it does seem to be an adjustable track bar and is an added component over the Mopar lift, it doesn't seem to be an HD track bar which is the more important aspect of replacing the front track bar. You really want to step up to the JKS branded track bar in this instance since the JKS version is more of an HD TB offering, so purchasing the inferior BDS TB as part of that kit is really a waste of additional cost added to that BDS lift you showed earlier in my opinion. That's the reason I linked the TF install video, so you can get a better understanding of the need for replacing the front TB, not to point you in the direction of purchasing a TF TB. If the BDS TB is only providing 1/2 of those benefits, then it's actually a reason I would tend to stray away from the BDS lift. I haven't done a lot of research on the BDS TB that is something you should be doing if you're considering purchasing that lift, so I could be mistaken on the strength aspects. I was pointing you to that TF information so you could make your own informed decision of what works for you best. The whole give a man a fish and he can eat for a day, or give him a fishing rod and teach him how to fish and he can eat for a life-time scenario.
Many on this forum purchase separate components from different vendors for their lifts since they are knowledgeable enough to understand what each component does, why it's needed, and what is the best designs between vendors. They use what is called the "Frankenlift" approach. They can critique most any lift "kit" and point out the weak points of where that vendor seemed to skimp to save on costs. So please post a link to the actual BDS lift you're looking at and we can either tear it apart or praise it. In most instances there's pluses and minuses with all these "kits", understanding those pluses and minuses is half the battle. Also the price range you're targeting is beneficial as well. MetalCloak lifts have already been suggested which are a great lift kit, but since you didn't seem to show much interest, I'm assuming they fell out of your targeted budget since MC lifts tend to be pretty expensive. Fixing a Rough Country lift can often be a rabbit hole of frustrations and money spent as well.
You're asking a lot of subjective and debatable questions. What is the price of the BDS kit? Can you provide a link? You really need to do an apples to apples comparison between any of these lifts which often isn't as easy as it sounds. Like I mentioned most lifts in this price range can be improved upon. Whether or not those improvements are needed or not is where the debates tend to start. The necessity of caster correction is one of those items which is a non debatable item in my opinion but even there you will often find some folks on these forums insisting it was not needed for their lift but then at the same time there's often 100 posts on these forums complaining about how their rig steers and rides like crap after they lifted and 9 times out of 10 it's because they haven't added anything for proper caster correction after lifting.
BDS is really a brand name owned by sporttruckusa who also own JKS and Zone offroad. Ironically, they also own the Fox branded shocks.
Sporttruckusa brand lift offerings are tiered as such.
1. JKS
2. BDS
3. Zone
So, BDS is often not considered a top tier brand lift for the JK when compared to other brands such as AEV or MetalCloak. JKS is in that upper class category. I'm not saying BDS is a bad brand but they are a mid-tier offering almost by definition. Thus, the reason when I look at that BDS track bar, although it does seem to be an adjustable track bar and is an added component over the Mopar lift, it doesn't seem to be an HD track bar which is the more important aspect of replacing the front track bar. You really want to step up to the JKS branded track bar in this instance since the JKS version is more of an HD TB offering, so purchasing the inferior BDS TB as part of that kit is really a waste of additional cost added to that BDS lift you showed earlier in my opinion. That's the reason I linked the TF install video, so you can get a better understanding of the need for replacing the front TB, not to point you in the direction of purchasing a TF TB. If the BDS TB is only providing 1/2 of those benefits, then it's actually a reason I would tend to stray away from the BDS lift. I haven't done a lot of research on the BDS TB that is something you should be doing if you're considering purchasing that lift, so I could be mistaken on the strength aspects. I was pointing you to that TF information so you could make your own informed decision of what works for you best. The whole give a man a fish and he can eat for a day, or give him a fishing rod and teach him how to fish and he can eat for a life-time scenario.
Many on this forum purchase separate components from different vendors for their lifts since they are knowledgeable enough to understand what each component does, why it's needed, and what is the best designs between vendors. They use what is called the "Frankenlift" approach. They can critique most any lift "kit" and point out the weak points of where that vendor seemed to skimp to save on costs. So please post a link to the actual BDS lift you're looking at and we can either tear it apart or praise it. In most instances there's pluses and minuses with all these "kits", understanding those pluses and minuses is half the battle. Also the price range you're targeting is beneficial as well. MetalCloak lifts have already been suggested which are a great lift kit, but since you didn't seem to show much interest, I'm assuming they fell out of your targeted budget since MC lifts tend to be pretty expensive. Fixing a Rough Country lift can often be a rabbit hole of frustrations and money spent as well.
this is the lift I was looking at, but the shocks would be swapped.
I was just talking about my concerns with the rough country that’s on there. I would rather have a new kit installed and know what it is and that it’s not old or been installed incorrectly. It’s probably fine, however, I did find that rubber spacer zip tied in the spring.
I will I’ll do some reading, as you mentioned. And thanks again for all the help.
Did you happen to get a price with the Bilstein 5100 shocks included? I'm assuming it will be higher than the $620.86 price.
Here's a few items I'm seeing, others may provide further input.
The NEGATIVES:
- In the rear, sway bar drop brackets are included instead of longer sway bar links to allow the use of a factory wheel and larger tire. (Actual replacement longer rear sway bar links are a preferred solution, their added statement about "allow the use of factory wheel and larger tires" is made up non-sense. They cut cost by not providing actual rear replacement links and provided a bracket extension solution instead). The majority of the better lifts will provide replacement rear sway bar links. In comparison to the Mopar lift I suggested, the Mopar provides rear replacement SB links, where the stock rears links are longer and get moved to the font and the front factory links get thrown out.
I also noticed the seller includes this statement.
**PLEASE NOTE THIS KIT ALSO INCLUDES BDS FIXED SWAY-BAR LINKS**
So I'm assuming they mean the "rear" sway bar links? If that's the case then they already understand the benefits of using a replacement link over some link extensions.
However this is a lot of confusion since they don't spell out rear and front sway bar links. You need longer rear sway bar links, where the stock factory are long enough to move to the front. Fixed swaybar links are included for Rubicon models with the factory disconnect system, for non-Rubicon models choose between BDS Ultimate Sway Bar Disconnects or JKS Quicker Disconnects. In the rear, sway bar drop brackets are included instead of longer sway bar links to allow the use of a factory wheel and larger tire.
- To correct the rear axle shift from the lift, a rear frame mounted track bar relocation bracket is included. There are typically 2 ways to address this problem after lifting. The rear track bar is mounted to a bracket on the frame side, and to the axle on the other side. The intent for this component is to re-center the rear axle (side to side) as well as make the TB more horizontal to the axle. The track bars prevent body roll when making quick/sharp steering maneuvers. So the included bracket extends the length of the track bar to re-center the rear axle and also lowers the Track bar to make it sit in a more horizontal/optimal position. An axle side track bar relocation bracket is a much more preferred solution. The frame side track bar relocation brackets tend to be weaker, as well since they are pushing the TB closer to the axle, they have been known to cause interference between the rear TB and the axle. The axle side relocation track bar brackets serve the same purpose but since they are mounted to the axle instead of an existing bracket like the frame side, the axle relocation brackets can be made to be much stronger, as well as they move the TB upwards further from the axle, thus less chance of TB/Axle interference. The Mopar as well as other higher end lifts typically use an axle side TB relocation bracket. Frame side TB relocation brackets are often used by Rough Country.
- Front Adjustable Track bar BDS offers many variations of a 3in lift. This one doesn't include that front track bar like the previous one you had shown. Thus, the likely lower cost.
The Neutral Land: Many companies don't include anything to correct your alignment, but BDS includes octo cam washers for the front lower control arms to fine tune the caster angle. This kit includes cam bolts for caster correction which is the same as the Mopar kit. They're better than no caster correction but they're also the least preferred way to correct the caster. It's the least expensive solution to correct caster. If you aren't going to do any hard core off roading, cam bolts will work fine. Many don't prefer the cam bolts because you have to modify your axle side control arm mounting brackets and they have been known to come loose over time if you do any type of rock crawling.
Specifically intended for 2007-11 models, this system includes an exhaust extension kit that maximizes allowable wheel travel with the factory front driveshaft. - This is a total B.S. statement. The 2007-2011 JK's don't need this because the exhaust is not routed under the front drive shaft. In the 2012+ JK's the exhaust is routed under the front drive shaft and this is where these would be needed. So if you have a 2012+, this is a bonus needed item. The Mopar kit solves this problem with a better solution by providing a replacement drive shaft in the 2012+ versions of their kit, but as I stated earlier if you get the Mopar 2007-2011 kit and put it on a 2012+ JK, then you would need these exhaust spacers. It's a way to save a buck since a drive shaft costs $400-$500 and the spacers are a $30 part. It's a relatively inexpensive addition to any kit which doesn't include them but only needed on 2012+ JKs.
The POSITIVE
Brake line relocation brackets are supplied to handle the added wheel travel.
- Relatively inexpensive items as well, but are definitely needed. The 2012+ Mopar kit includes these as well. I purchased them separately for $35.
- or non-Rubicon models choose between BDS Ultimate Sway Bar Disconnects or JKS Quicker Disconnects. This is really the only real highlight of that lift. It includes front Sway Bar Disconnect links. If you go off road, then disconnecting the front sway bar links can be beneficial. If you are mostly a daily driver, then you're not going to benefit from this highlight feature. A pair of sway bar quick disconnects purchased separately are a $100-$150 add-on item.
Did you happen to get a price with the Bilstein 5100 shocks included? I'm assuming it will be higher than the $620.86 price.
Here's a few items I'm seeing, others may provide further input.
The NEGATIVES:
- In the rear, sway bar drop brackets are included instead of longer sway bar links to allow the use of a factory wheel and larger tire. (Actual replacement longer rear sway bar links are a preferred solution, their added statement about "allow the use of factory wheel and larger tires" is made up non-sense. They cut cost by not providing actual rear replacement links and provided a bracket extension solution instead). The majority of the better lifts will provide replacement rear sway bar links. In comparison to the Mopar lift I suggested, the Mopar provides rear replacement SB links, where the stock rears links are longer and get moved to the font and the front factory links get thrown out.
I also noticed the seller includes this statement.
**PLEASE NOTE THIS KIT ALSO INCLUDES BDS FIXED SWAY-BAR LINKS**
So I'm assuming they mean the "rear" sway bar links? If that's the case then they already understand the benefits of using a replacement link over some link extensions.
However this is a lot of confusion since they don't spell out rear and front sway bar links. You need longer rear sway bar links, where the stock factory are long enough to move to the front. Fixed swaybar links are included for Rubicon models with the factory disconnect system, for non-Rubicon models choose between BDS Ultimate Sway Bar Disconnects or JKS Quicker Disconnects. In the rear, sway bar drop brackets are included instead of longer sway bar links to allow the use of a factory wheel and larger tire.
- To correct the rear axle shift from the lift, a rear frame mounted track bar relocation bracket is included. There are typically 2 ways to address this problem after lifting. The rear track bar is mounted to a bracket on the frame side, and to the axle on the other side. The intent for this component is to re-center the rear axle (side to side) as well as make the TB more horizontal to the axle. The track bars prevent body roll when making quick/sharp steering maneuvers. So the included bracket extends the length of the track bar to re-center the rear axle and also lowers the Track bar to make it sit in a more horizontal/optimal position. An axle side track bar relocation bracket is a much more preferred solution. The frame side track bar relocation brackets tend to be weaker, as well since they are pushing the TB closer to the axle, they have been known to cause interference between the rear TB and the axle. The axle side relocation track bar brackets serve the same purpose but since they are mounted to the axle instead of an existing bracket like the frame side, the axle relocation brackets can be made to be much stronger, as well as they move the TB upwards further from the axle, thus less chance of TB/Axle interference. The Mopar as well as other higher end lifts typically use an axle side TB relocation bracket. Frame side TB relocation brackets are often used by Rough Country.
- Front Adjustable Track bar BDS offers many variations of a 3in lift. This one doesn't include that front track bar like the previous one you had shown. Thus, the likely lower cost.
The Neutral Land: Many companies don't include anything to correct your alignment, but BDS includes octo cam washers for the front lower control arms to fine tune the caster angle. This kit includes cam bolts for caster correction which is the same as the Mopar kit. They're better than no caster correction but they're also the least preferred way to correct the caster. It's the least expensive solution to correct caster. If you aren't going to do any hard core off roading, cam bolts will work fine. Many don't prefer the cam bolts because you have to modify your axle side control arm mounting brackets and they have been known to come loose over time if you do any type of rock crawling.
Specifically intended for 2007-11 models, this system includes an exhaust extension kit that maximizes allowable wheel travel with the factory front driveshaft. - This is a total B.S. statement. The 2007-2011 JK's don't need this because the exhaust is not routed under the front drive shaft. In the 2012+ JK's the exhaust is routed under the front drive shaft and this is where these would be needed. So if you have a 2012+, this is a bonus needed item. The Mopar kit solves this problem with a better solution by providing a replacement drive shaft in the 2012+ versions of their kit, but as I stated earlier if you get the Mopar 2007-2011 kit and put it on a 2012+ JK, then you would need these exhaust spacers. It's a way to save a buck since a drive shaft costs $400-$500 and the spacers are a $30 part. It's a relatively inexpensive addition to any kit which doesn't include them but only needed on 2012+ JKs.
The POSITIVE
Brake line relocation brackets are supplied to handle the added wheel travel.
- Relatively inexpensive items as well, but are definitely needed. The 2012+ Mopar kit includes these as well. I purchased them separately for $35.
- or non-Rubicon models choose between BDS Ultimate Sway Bar Disconnects or JKS Quicker Disconnects. This is really the only real highlight of that lift. It includes front Sway Bar Disconnect links. If you go off road, then disconnecting the front sway bar links can be beneficial. If you are mostly a daily driver, then you're not going to benefit from this highlight feature. A pair of sway bar quick disconnects purchased separately are a $100-$150 add-on item.
Yes, they sent me a message on eBay with a quote $752.86 that includes the 5100s.
[QUOTE=karls10jk;4341519]No spring clamp and no hoist needed, just some good jack stands (6 ton for height) and a jack capable of getting the Jeep a couple feet off the ground. Jack under the frame to get it high, remove the tires and all front end connections, then allow the axle to droop to the ground. My track bars and steering is still connected here, as well as rear sway bar links, or it would have dropped further. You can see there's plenty of room to take out
If you have enough lift to accommodate the tires you want, I'd leave it at that. Performance wise it's fine for pavement and fire trails. If it were me, I'd rather put on some decent adjustable shocks like the rancho xl9000, make sure caster is right, and call it a day. The Bilsteins are good shocks, just stiff. I'd guess that spacer puck is 2.5", which is plenty to run a 35 with proper BS
Originally Posted by resharp001
Y, I think most of us here would tell you that higher ain't better, and it just introduces new headaches. At that point, you're really now addressing drive shafts, and sometimes control arm brackets aren't enough adjustment so you're then looking at adjustable control arms. It just introduces more things to address, and the cost start to add up. My personal believe is 2.5" and 35's is a nice look, and good middle ground for most people not wanting to get balls deep in to things. More lift just creates higher center of gravity which isn't gonna help anything on or off road. I'd just keep it simple, and enjoy it, specially considering you have an off road toy in the other rig. Just my 2c.
Originally Posted by nthinuf
Absolutely nothing. What it comes down to is that: It's your Jeep. And it's your money. You should buy and install whatever makes sense to YOU.
That said, the folks commenting here have been where you are. We have seen the various issues caused by lifting, and have some experience with correcting those problems. So what might benefit you is to, rather than either ignoring the advice
You could stop there since the Mopar kit includes cam bolts for caster correction if you don't want to spend any more money. Many have used the cam bolts and are happy with them. I personally don't recommend using the cam bolts because you have to grind out the bracket on your axle control arm brackets. I would recommend going with the Rancho geo correction brackets instead which run around $130-$150. I had a hard time deciding between going with the Rancho geo brackets or adjustable front lower control arms for caster correction. I split the difference and decided I would go with a good value lower cost adjustable front lower control arms which were the Rough Country X-Flex adjustable control arms for $170. I figured if I didn't like them or if they didn't last, they would be good enough for me to evaluate and decide if the ride quality was good enough for me or not. So far it's turns out that these adjustable arms have been good and the ride quality is good for me. I wouldn't recommend a RC lift, but these RC adjustable control arms are fine if you keep the joints greased. I keep telling myself I'm going to upgrade to a higher quality adjustable control arm but I'm not into buying additional parts if they're not needed and so far going on 2 1/2 years...replacements haven't been needed.
With the Mopar 2in lift, it provides 3 1/4in of actual lift with an unweighted rig. (ie stock bumpers, no winch, stock tire mounted as the spare). With my added steal bumpers, 35in spare, TF HD carrier and a 12K winch, I'm netting 2 3/4in of actual lift which is pretty standard that you lose about a 1/2in of lift after adding that extra weight. With the Mopar 2in lift you get Fox 2.0 performance series shocks. These are the higher priced Fox shocks and not the lower cost Adventure series Fox shocks which come with many of the other lifts in this similar price range. Do the comparison pricing between the Adventure series and the Performance series and you can see the price differences I'm talking about. The only thing better than the Performance 2.0 series shocks from Fox is when you start getting into the multi reservoir Fox and rebuild-able Fox shock options. With the Mopar kit, these aren't your standard off the shelf Fox 2.0 Performance series shocks as well. Mopar worked with Fox to adjust the internal valving to increase the on road ride comfort. That's the reason if you look at the parts list above, you will see different part numbers for the 2door vs the 4door version included Fox shocks. The same for the rear springs. The rear Fox shocks and springs are tuned differently on the 2 door and 4 door versions to better maximize ride quality. Fox doesn't differentiate between the 2 door and 4 door with their off the shelf 2.0 Performance series shocks. You only get that option from Fox with the Mopar branded Fox 2.0 Performance series shocks.
The next best value in this lift height price category while maintaining good on road ride quality based on my research and opinion is the AEV 2.5 DualSport XT lift. It provides 3inches of actual lift and will go down to 2.5inches once you add the weight of bumpers, winch and larger spare on the rear. I prefer Fox shocks over the Bilstein 5100s that come with the AEV. I feel the Fox is a better shock, and they're also longer length, so they will provide slight improved flex capability for off road use over the Bilsteins. Plus, the starting price of the AEV 2.5in DualSport is $1K. Thus, the Mopar 2in lift was a much better value to me than the AEV 2.5in DualSport XT. Nothing wrong with the AEV lift, it's a good lift but it didn't make sense to me spending more, and getting less in return. The AEV you have to purchase caster correction separately, so add that cost I already mentioned above on top of the $1K starting price.
Could you add more to each of these lifts? Yes, and I have but what I outlined will provide you with all the essentials where you have some time to evaluate and make better informed decisions based on your actual experience if you want to start making further upgrades. Going with the BDS lift over the Mopar 2in lift or AEV DualSport XT lift I would not recommend that path once you compare what you're getting in return with the Mopar 2in lift and AEV 2.5in DualSport lift options.
If I were to step up to the next price ranges in this similar amount of lift to fit 35s, I would then start looking at the MC Rocksport where I would have difficulty justifying the increase in price compared to the Mopar 2in and the AEV DS XT and I would likely skip it and go right to the MC GameChanger 2.5in/3.5in instead.
This is my rig with the Mopar 2in lift and 35s, with before/after added weight of an AEV front bumper, front skid plate, 12K winch, rear Hardrock bumper, TF HD tire carrier, and a 35 hanging on the back. I have not rubbed my tires on my fenders yet, the Mopar lift parts haven't rusted and the springs have not sagged. It's a Daily Driver/Weekend Warrior rig where I have no regrets and it's been installed going on 3 years now.
If this is something that interests you, then don't take my word for it. PM me and I will provide you a link to a very long informative conversation from others who have this same lift and can tell you many more details about their experience with this same lift.
does anyone know whether the BDS or Mopar kits are higher?
does anyone know whether the BDS or Mopar kits are higher?
I can't answer that question, just wanted to throw out a suggestion that you not limit your choice to only those two lifts just because they are the recommendations you have gotten so far. There are a ton of options out there, and the more you look at the various lifts, the more info you will pick up to help with your decision.
Asking about expected lift height is a good direction to go, since that will have a direct affect on many of the component choices you may want to make. But don't stop there!! Look into the pro's/con's of the various forms of Caster correction and form an opinion on which is right for you. If you end up around 3.5" or higher, a little knowledge about draglink flips would be good to have (as well as having an idea of whether a front trackbar that came in a specific kit can be flipped, or if you would want to replace that newly replaced trackbar...) Assuming you choose a lift that does not come with a front driveshaft, form an opinion on what you will do when the stock one starts spitting out all of its grease. The list goes on and on, but you get the idea. It is better to research as much as you can up front as it will make the process go a lot smoother.
I can't answer that question, just wanted to throw out a suggestion that you not limit your choice to only those two lifts just because they are the recommendations you have gotten so far. There are a ton of options out there, and the more you look at the various lifts, the more info you will pick up to help with your decision.
Asking about expected lift height is a good direction to go, since that will have a direct affect on many of the component choices you may want to make. But don't stop there!! Look into the pro's/con's of the various forms of Caster correction and form an opinion on which is right for you. If you end up around 3.5" or higher, a little knowledge about draglink flips would be good to have (as well as having an idea of whether a front trackbar that came in a specific kit can be flipped, or if you would want to replace that newly replaced trackbar...) Assuming you choose a lift that does not come with a front driveshaft, form an opinion on what you will do when the stock one starts spitting out all of its grease. The list goes on and on, but you get the idea. It is better to research as much as you can up front as it will make the process go a lot smoother.
i guess I a just confused in this process, as I have always assumed a “4 inch lift” the vehicle would be lifted four inches. I have had lift kits on all of my trucks/Jeeps and never run in to this. I do Not understand why companies list their kits as 2” or 3” and you end up with 3 3/4” or even 4”
I would like like to be right around 3-3.5” that way I won’t have to do all sorts of extra stuff to it.
I will be running 35x12.50 r18, possibly BFG km3 or 2s.
Also looking at the newer buckshots.
I started reading some of the links I have been provided. Thank you for them.
If I didn’t mention, my Jeep is a Sahara. Which does change some things.
But do plan (at the moment) on pulling off the rough country stuff and installing a lift in the near future. I want to do it right and safe, as I use the 07 as a driver and need it dependable. I simply don’t trust whats on it now.
05-04-2019, 03:23 AM
