1" Lift(s)
05-10-2008, 10:12 PM
#21
JK Enthusiast
If not, I would say NO to a 1.75 lift and a 325 tire.
But maybe I misunderstood the question
Last edited by VBS4; 05-10-2008 at 10:18 PM.
05-11-2008, 04:23 AM
#22
JK Super Freak
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I was looking for something 2" or less too. I'm considering the 2" Black Diamond, 1.75" Daystar and the 2" BDS coil and spacer kits. The BDS kits are probably better, but they cost more. I liked the Black Diamond because it has front and rear bump stops. The daystar looked good too, but I couldn't find much feedback on it. Has anyone had any experience with the Daystar 1.75" kit? It comes with coil spacers, front bump stops and rear swaybar drop down brackets but no rear bump stops. Also, what exactly is the purpose of the drop down brackets since the other kits don't seem to include them?
http://www.daystarweb.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=KJ09137BK&Category=e1c71810-83ab-40e4-a6e2-85e402107a79
http://www.daystarweb.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=KJ09137BK&Category=e1c71810-83ab-40e4-a6e2-85e402107a79
I believe he's going with something like a 20" wheel...so for something like a 325/60R20, that would be around 35.5" tall. This is one of those things where you may have to just do it to see if it will work or not....it's hard to say for sure, because it's a little out of the ordinary. But I'm sticking with, if you're not gonna wheel it then the 1.75" might be enough...but for wheelin, definately go with the 2.5".
05-11-2008, 07:43 AM
#23
JK Super Freak
Sigh....
OK...the SUSPENSION based lifts include longer coils (OME, etc...) or COIL SPACERS, which essentially make the existing coil's top pad thicker, so that the same coil starts lower, and therefore the Jeep is lifted by that thickness.
The BODY LIFT essentially inserts thicker body mounts, so the BODY is higher off the frame by their thickness.
The primary reason to get one type over the other type, or to need to COMBINE the two types, is that they have different FUNCTIONS.
Both give a reliable way of providing RIDE HEIGHT adjustment...and, if you only drive on the Bonniville Salt Flats, etc..either might work...
BUT, if you drive in places where your tires might actually move up and down (Speed bumps, rocks, surface imperfections, etc...)...then, a BL is ALWAYS, inch for inch, going to give you more TIRE ROOM.
In fact, if ALL you want to do is fit larger tires, ONLY a BL is 100% efficient.
The reason is that the BL lifts the WHEEL WELLS up and out of the way of the larger tire...
...and the SL only raises the ride height...if a tire were to stuff into the wheel well on hard braking, a bump, etc...it would hit WITH a SL or w/o a SL, as the tire and wheel well are still the same relation to each other...the tire merely STARTED the journey from further down.
This all means that for the same tire size clearance, you need A LOT more SL than BL to fit the same tires.
Again, if you drive on Billiard Tables, and never brake or turn sharply, sure, its not going to matter as much....but that's a small demographic.
If this is about tire clearance...get a BL...that's what a BL is FOR.
The BL doesn't require new shocks, etc...because it has no effect upon the suspension, etc...all you did was raise the wheel wells out of the way.
33's clear a stock JK...you said you want 35's, another 2" in diameter.
2" in diameter means that an extra INCH protrudes up, and down, from the center of the rim, etc...so, if the tire is coming up into the wheel well, it will hit stuff that used to be an inch away.
A wider tire ALSO requires more room, as the stuff that used to be spaced further away is now closer by the difference in WIDTH.
The combination of width and height means that the tire also swings in a wider ARC when turning, and, drooping/rising up/down on that live axle...so that the additional room also measures a span beyond the inches in diameter or width, including that larger arc's space as well.
That essentially means a 2" BL would be perfect for 35's.
If you want 325 mm section width tires that are 35" in diameter, that's equivalent to ~ 35" x 12.8"....very close to a 35 x 12.5 nominal size...in fact, the SAME as that nominal size in all practicality. (You would need to look at the specs for the PARTICULAR tire(s) you were considering, etc...)
For backspacing, a rim with ~ 4.5" of BS would be fine.
_____________
Hope that helps!
OK...the SUSPENSION based lifts include longer coils (OME, etc...) or COIL SPACERS, which essentially make the existing coil's top pad thicker, so that the same coil starts lower, and therefore the Jeep is lifted by that thickness.
The BODY LIFT essentially inserts thicker body mounts, so the BODY is higher off the frame by their thickness.
The primary reason to get one type over the other type, or to need to COMBINE the two types, is that they have different FUNCTIONS.
Both give a reliable way of providing RIDE HEIGHT adjustment...and, if you only drive on the Bonniville Salt Flats, etc..either might work...
BUT, if you drive in places where your tires might actually move up and down (Speed bumps, rocks, surface imperfections, etc...)...then, a BL is ALWAYS, inch for inch, going to give you more TIRE ROOM.
In fact, if ALL you want to do is fit larger tires, ONLY a BL is 100% efficient.
The reason is that the BL lifts the WHEEL WELLS up and out of the way of the larger tire...
...and the SL only raises the ride height...if a tire were to stuff into the wheel well on hard braking, a bump, etc...it would hit WITH a SL or w/o a SL, as the tire and wheel well are still the same relation to each other...the tire merely STARTED the journey from further down.
This all means that for the same tire size clearance, you need A LOT more SL than BL to fit the same tires.
Again, if you drive on Billiard Tables, and never brake or turn sharply, sure, its not going to matter as much....but that's a small demographic.
If this is about tire clearance...get a BL...that's what a BL is FOR.
The BL doesn't require new shocks, etc...because it has no effect upon the suspension, etc...all you did was raise the wheel wells out of the way.
33's clear a stock JK...you said you want 35's, another 2" in diameter.
2" in diameter means that an extra INCH protrudes up, and down, from the center of the rim, etc...so, if the tire is coming up into the wheel well, it will hit stuff that used to be an inch away.
A wider tire ALSO requires more room, as the stuff that used to be spaced further away is now closer by the difference in WIDTH.
The combination of width and height means that the tire also swings in a wider ARC when turning, and, drooping/rising up/down on that live axle...so that the additional room also measures a span beyond the inches in diameter or width, including that larger arc's space as well.
That essentially means a 2" BL would be perfect for 35's.
If you want 325 mm section width tires that are 35" in diameter, that's equivalent to ~ 35" x 12.8"....very close to a 35 x 12.5 nominal size...in fact, the SAME as that nominal size in all practicality. (You would need to look at the specs for the PARTICULAR tire(s) you were considering, etc...)
For backspacing, a rim with ~ 4.5" of BS would be fine.
_____________
Hope that helps!
Last edited by TEEJ; 05-11-2008 at 07:46 AM.
05-11-2008, 08:52 AM
#24
You have to be careful with 35's and a 2" lift. If you intend to disconnect your front sway bars, that setup will rub. Especially if you don't install bumpstops. I am currently running the Rusty's 2" coil spring lift and a .75" spacer up front. I used Full Traction bumpstops to be able to stuff the 315/75/R16 tires on Cragars w/5" backspacing and Spidertrax spacers. This setup BARELY clears the 35" tires when I run disconnected (See pic below!). If you never disconnect, the 2" or 2.5"BB is enough to clear the 35's. You can also do some creative fender trimming or flat fenders and have no problem with that setup. For full articulation up front, you need closer to 3" of lift for 35's and 33's will rub with no lift.
Last edited by armycop; 05-11-2008 at 08:55 AM.
05-11-2008, 10:21 AM
#25
JK Freak
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Sigh....
OK...the SUSPENSION based lifts include longer coils (OME, etc...) or COIL SPACERS, which essentially make the existing coil's top pad thicker, so that the same coil starts lower, and therefore the Jeep is lifted by that thickness.
The BODY LIFT essentially inserts thicker body mounts, so the BODY is higher off the frame by their thickness.
The primary reason to get one type over the other type, or to need to COMBINE the two types, is that they have different FUNCTIONS.
Both give a reliable way of providing RIDE HEIGHT adjustment...and, if you only drive on the Bonniville Salt Flats, etc..either might work...
BUT, if you drive in places where your tires might actually move up and down (Speed bumps, rocks, surface imperfections, etc...)...then, a BL is ALWAYS, inch for inch, going to give you more TIRE ROOM.
In fact, if ALL you want to do is fit larger tires, ONLY a BL is 100% efficient.
The reason is that the BL lifts the WHEEL WELLS up and out of the way of the larger tire...
...and the SL only raises the ride height...if a tire were to stuff into the wheel well on hard braking, a bump, etc...it would hit WITH a SL or w/o a SL, as the tire and wheel well are still the same relation to each other...the tire merely STARTED the journey from further down.
This all means that for the same tire size clearance, you need A LOT more SL than BL to fit the same tires.
Again, if you drive on Billiard Tables, and never brake or turn sharply, sure, its not going to matter as much....but that's a small demographic.
If this is about tire clearance...get a BL...that's what a BL is FOR.
The BL doesn't require new shocks, etc...because it has no effect upon the suspension, etc...all you did was raise the wheel wells out of the way.
33's clear a stock JK...you said you want 35's, another 2" in diameter.
2" in diameter means that an extra INCH protrudes up, and down, from the center of the rim, etc...so, if the tire is coming up into the wheel well, it will hit stuff that used to be an inch away.
A wider tire ALSO requires more room, as the stuff that used to be spaced further away is now closer by the difference in WIDTH.
The combination of width and height means that the tire also swings in a wider ARC when turning, and, drooping/rising up/down on that live axle...so that the additional room also measures a span beyond the inches in diameter or width, including that larger arc's space as well.
That essentially means a 2" BL would be perfect for 35's.
If you want 325 mm section width tires that are 35" in diameter, that's equivalent to ~ 35" x 12.8"....very close to a 35 x 12.5 nominal size...in fact, the SAME as that nominal size in all practicality. (You would need to look at the specs for the PARTICULAR tire(s) you were considering, etc...)
For backspacing, a rim with ~ 4.5" of BS would be fine.
_____________
Hope that helps!
OK...the SUSPENSION based lifts include longer coils (OME, etc...) or COIL SPACERS, which essentially make the existing coil's top pad thicker, so that the same coil starts lower, and therefore the Jeep is lifted by that thickness.
The BODY LIFT essentially inserts thicker body mounts, so the BODY is higher off the frame by their thickness.
The primary reason to get one type over the other type, or to need to COMBINE the two types, is that they have different FUNCTIONS.
Both give a reliable way of providing RIDE HEIGHT adjustment...and, if you only drive on the Bonniville Salt Flats, etc..either might work...
BUT, if you drive in places where your tires might actually move up and down (Speed bumps, rocks, surface imperfections, etc...)...then, a BL is ALWAYS, inch for inch, going to give you more TIRE ROOM.
In fact, if ALL you want to do is fit larger tires, ONLY a BL is 100% efficient.
The reason is that the BL lifts the WHEEL WELLS up and out of the way of the larger tire...
...and the SL only raises the ride height...if a tire were to stuff into the wheel well on hard braking, a bump, etc...it would hit WITH a SL or w/o a SL, as the tire and wheel well are still the same relation to each other...the tire merely STARTED the journey from further down.
This all means that for the same tire size clearance, you need A LOT more SL than BL to fit the same tires.
Again, if you drive on Billiard Tables, and never brake or turn sharply, sure, its not going to matter as much....but that's a small demographic.
If this is about tire clearance...get a BL...that's what a BL is FOR.
The BL doesn't require new shocks, etc...because it has no effect upon the suspension, etc...all you did was raise the wheel wells out of the way.
33's clear a stock JK...you said you want 35's, another 2" in diameter.
2" in diameter means that an extra INCH protrudes up, and down, from the center of the rim, etc...so, if the tire is coming up into the wheel well, it will hit stuff that used to be an inch away.
A wider tire ALSO requires more room, as the stuff that used to be spaced further away is now closer by the difference in WIDTH.
The combination of width and height means that the tire also swings in a wider ARC when turning, and, drooping/rising up/down on that live axle...so that the additional room also measures a span beyond the inches in diameter or width, including that larger arc's space as well.
That essentially means a 2" BL would be perfect for 35's.
If you want 325 mm section width tires that are 35" in diameter, that's equivalent to ~ 35" x 12.8"....very close to a 35 x 12.5 nominal size...in fact, the SAME as that nominal size in all practicality. (You would need to look at the specs for the PARTICULAR tire(s) you were considering, etc...)
For backspacing, a rim with ~ 4.5" of BS would be fine.
_____________
Hope that helps!
Ok first off. TEEJ owns all.
Secondly. I just want a setup that will allow me to run a 35x12.50x20....I know about everybodies aversion to 20s, but I love em. and thats that!
I want something simple, that doesn't require trimming, new bumpstops or anything. 2" or less. That's it! KISS method. Keep it simple stupid. This will be a beulevard cruiser, the only offroading it will see, will be during snow seasons, IF i go back up north. Maybe the OCCASIONAL sand trail, or LIGHT LIGHT LIGHT mud, and that's all a big maybe.
So the question is....a simple, affordable, method for clearing 35x12.5x20 tires.
05-11-2008, 11:48 AM
#27
JK Super Freak
Join Date: Sep 2007
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Ok first off. TEEJ owns all.
Secondly. I just want a setup that will allow me to run a 35x12.50x20....I know about everybodies aversion to 20s, but I love em. and thats that!
I want something simple, that doesn't require trimming, new bumpstops or anything. 2" or less. That's it! KISS method. Keep it simple stupid. This will be a beulevard cruiser, the only offroading it will see, will be during snow seasons, IF i go back up north. Maybe the OCCASIONAL sand trail, or LIGHT LIGHT LIGHT mud, and that's all a big maybe.
So the question is....a simple, affordable, method for clearing 35x12.5x20 tires.
Secondly. I just want a setup that will allow me to run a 35x12.50x20....I know about everybodies aversion to 20s, but I love em. and thats that!
I want something simple, that doesn't require trimming, new bumpstops or anything. 2" or less. That's it! KISS method. Keep it simple stupid. This will be a beulevard cruiser, the only offroading it will see, will be during snow seasons, IF i go back up north. Maybe the OCCASIONAL sand trail, or LIGHT LIGHT LIGHT mud, and that's all a big maybe.
So the question is....a simple, affordable, method for clearing 35x12.5x20 tires.
He's got 20's on his with a 2.5" lift...you might wanna check with him about his setup to see what he did.
05-11-2008, 11:49 AM
#28
JK Super Freak
Ok first off. TEEJ owns all.
Secondly. I just want a setup that will allow me to run a 35x12.50x20....I know about everybodies aversion to 20s, but I love em. and thats that!
I want something simple, that doesn't require trimming, new bumpstops or anything. 2" or less. That's it! KISS method. Keep it simple stupid. This will be a beulevard cruiser, the only offroading it will see, will be during snow seasons, IF i go back up north. Maybe the OCCASIONAL sand trail, or LIGHT LIGHT LIGHT mud, and that's all a big maybe.
So the question is....a simple, affordable, method for clearing 35x12.5x20 tires.
Secondly. I just want a setup that will allow me to run a 35x12.50x20....I know about everybodies aversion to 20s, but I love em. and thats that!
I want something simple, that doesn't require trimming, new bumpstops or anything. 2" or less. That's it! KISS method. Keep it simple stupid. This will be a beulevard cruiser, the only offroading it will see, will be during snow seasons, IF i go back up north. Maybe the OCCASIONAL sand trail, or LIGHT LIGHT LIGHT mud, and that's all a big maybe.
So the question is....a simple, affordable, method for clearing 35x12.5x20 tires.
Period.
Enjoy!
05-11-2008, 12:18 PM
#30
JK Super Freak
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...light=bds+2+BL
http://www.bds-suspension.com/pdfs/9295.pdf
Check these out.
You could do a SEARCH for these as well, there are more of them.