Quick question, im assuming a 1310-1350 conversion u joint is not really any stronger than a 1310 correct? Im looking at these or just getting a new yoke. The U-Joints arent much, but the yokes arent much more either... Just planning on what I may do. I know theyd be a tough item to bum on a trail but i go as prepared as possible and would carry a few.

 

I was told to stay with 1310 because they're readily available at pretty much every auto parts shop. 1350's are a little harder to come by. That is what i was told, not my personal experience.

 

im not looking between the 2....the one im looking at is 2 stubs are 1310 and the other stubs are 1350 hence the conversion u-joint. i also carry spares so no biggie. I personally am thinking there the same strength as a 1310, but may just swap the yoke while im at it. Seems theres not really a benefit other than ease of install in my scenario.

 

Don't know what the conversion joint goes for, but just replaced spares I used on the trail last time out. For a d60 1350, the yoke and u-joint were about 100.

I can't imagine the d44 being any more and you're more likely to find spares in your buddies bags.

Seems to me the conversion joint is asking for problems when it blows up at the worst time.

 

Oh... disregard my last then. I was confused like the other guy.

If thios is the choice, stick with the 1310 for the same reason I gave going to the complete 1350 setup.

And as far as my experience goes... 1350 u-joints can be picked up at most auto parts stores, most truck shops, etc.. There shouldn't be an availability issue compared to the 1310, as both are common joint sizes.

 

these will be on my d60s. I currently have 1310 driveshafts. I believe my rear d60 is 1350 and the front is 1330 yokes. I want to lengthen and reuse my driveshafts and have them be my weak link hopefully. I know the u joints are like 16 bucks. the yokes are like 50 bucks a pop. itll save me prolly only 50 bucks as i already have 1310 u joints in abundance. I will just swap them the more i look at it...


FYI this is what i was debating over swapping yokes..
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-348/overview/

 

yeah my bad man i shoulda gave a better description. I appreciate the help.

 

Dont waste your time on them


I have both conversion joints in the shop collecting dust. they will just bind on you. Make your life easy and just convert the yokes and be done with it.



Here is what they look like for those that havent seen or used a conversion ujoint.



1310 to 1350 = Spicer 5-460X

1310 to 1330 = Spicer 5-134X

 

Ah.... I see.

Okay, my opinion is that when you lengthen the shafts, you get the ends converted as well. A little more cash, but running the same joint all around is mo'betta. Interchangeability is good stuff for us, plus it's a more common setup, which is always a good thing if you need to beg, borrow, or steal. If you build the axles right, the 1350 joint will still be the fuse.... but, as I am sure you know, Murphy always hangs out on the trail.

 

Ha i hear ya!

I did not think of the binding issues.. Im going to try and do the swap quick, but refuse to half ass it hence my thoughts on all this odd stuff.